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> My midlife crisis, (rebuilding engine, sort of)
JawjaPorsche
post Jan 26 2014, 04:21 PM
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Inlet, protects fuel pump from trash. Fuel filters are cheap, replace after draining out gas.
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rick 918-S
post Jan 26 2014, 04:22 PM
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Hey nice rack! -Celette
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That fuel looks bad. Smell it. If it has any hint of varnish drain it and replace it. Those fuel pumps click loud.
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rhodyguy
post Jan 26 2014, 04:25 PM
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out.
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and the fuel pressure may be unregulated, exceeding 3 1/2 #.
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mobymutt
post Jan 26 2014, 06:38 PM
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Thanks guys. I only noticed the fuel pump clicking because I turned the car on to show somebody. The gas is definitely old, and I will drain it if it ever gets warm again!

I'm especially pleased with the deal I got on the car; not only was the rust free, but so were the vise-grips!

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Jon H.
post Jan 26 2014, 07:18 PM
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An appraisal is $50 up here in Kemptville and you don't have to bring it to them. My insurance company didn't need an appraisal since i only put liability on it. If I wanted full coverage a 'real' appraisal would be required. As it stand the insurance is only $40 a month. Also, when you do get on the road get historic plates, it's only $36 for the yearly tags.

Regards'

Jon
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carr914
post Jan 26 2014, 07:26 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

Drain the Fuel, buy some SS Fuel Lines from Tangerine Racing before you do anything else
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gifted914
post Jan 26 2014, 07:28 PM
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QUOTE(mobymutt @ Jan 27 2014, 08:09 AM) *

The transparent fuel filter housing is only about 1/2 full of fuel. Does that mean anything? Is that filter on the inlet or outlet side of the pump?




this is air trapped in the filter housing above the inlet and outlet ports.
If the filter is mounted vertically, inlet at bottom the filter will fill completely.
generally not a problem though.
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flipb
post Jan 26 2014, 07:55 PM
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QUOTE(mobymutt @ Jan 26 2014, 07:38 PM) *

Thanks guys. I only noticed the fuel pump clicking because I turned the car on to show somebody. The gas is definitely old, and I will drain it if it ever gets warm again!

I'm especially pleased with the deal I got on the car; not only was the rust free, but so were the vise-grips!

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There more than one way to adjust a clutch, I guess... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif)

Congratulations on the purchase and welcome to the madness. My '74 is also the first car I've done much work on myself. They are great for learning... relatively simple once you gain some confidence.

The underside looks similar to how mine did when I bought it. Your CV boots may be torn or loose; so grease got slung all over the bottom of the car. Good for rust prevention, not so good for axle lubrication.
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Bulldog9
post Jan 28 2014, 06:11 AM
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QUOTE(stugray @ Jan 19 2014, 03:01 PM) *

BTW this is MY midlife crisis:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i366.photobucket.com-10819-1390161691.1.jpg)

And you can see the two pre-mid-life crisis cars in the background....


I wanted one of those for my midlife crisis too, but SWMBO (she who must be obeyed) wouldnt budge. She did however, agree to this, and is hands off my 912E restore.

Back on topic, CONGRATS on your find! Youre off to a great start on this site. I think a 914 is a great 'first' project car. Take your time and enjoy!


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bandjoey
post Jan 28 2014, 10:58 AM
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Carefully. Pump gas from a clean gas can to the carbs. Gas tank and lines are likely varnished up. Clean out the carb jets. Order a CB or weber carb book for settings and overhaul. If it was running before. Go the elimination route first to see if it fires up. Have fun
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mobymutt
post Feb 27 2014, 06:38 PM
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Since I can't actually work on my car yet due to the never-ending winter, I've been figuring out what it needs to get it safetied.

The driver's side seatbelt webbing is frayed to about halfway across. Is there a way to replace the webbing myself? If not, what is the recommended fix? I did some forum searching already, but didn't find anything yet.

I will also need new glass for the driver's side rear view mirror, and a driver's side sunvisor.

Shout out to Tweet, who sent me two key blanks, so I can now open all the locks on my car! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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ConeDodger
post Feb 27 2014, 07:35 PM
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Apex killer!
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There are companies that do complete seatbelt rebuilds. Try google?
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somd914
post Feb 28 2014, 04:52 AM
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Give these guys a call regarding seat belts

www.seatbeltplanet.com

Affordable replacements and familiar with 914 s
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mobymutt
post Mar 1 2014, 06:09 PM
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First two little projects started, very exciting! Can't say I enjoyed working in a cold garage though, even for such a short time.

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I couldn't get the bolt off the lower seatbelt attachment point. I thought it shifted a bit, but it never came loose. What's the best penetrant to use?

I have this overwhelming urge to get every little part replated, powder coated, etc, but I don't really want to go there. What's the poor man's method of making things looks pretty again?
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mepstein
post Mar 1 2014, 07:15 PM
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QUOTE(mobymutt @ Mar 1 2014, 07:09 PM) *

First two little projects started, very exciting! Can't say I enjoyed working in a cold garage though, even for such a short time.



I couldn't get the bolt off the lower seatbelt attachment point. I thought it shifted a bit, but it never came loose. What's the best penetrant to use?

I have this overwhelming urge to get every little part replated, powder coated, etc, but I don't really want to go there. What's the poor man's method of making things looks pretty again?


actually its very reasonable to get plating and powder coating done if you take in everything at once to your local commercial plater and powder coater. Doing it one at a time or sending out will be pricey. If you take it local and tell them to put it through when they are already doing the same for a large job, it can be very economical. The time, effort and material cost is a huge saving over doing it yourself.
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mobymutt
post Mar 1 2014, 07:50 PM
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QUOTE(mepstein @ Mar 1 2014, 08:15 PM) *

actually its very reasonable to get plating and powder coating done if you take in everything at once to your local commercial plater and powder coater. Doing it one at a time or sending out will be pricey. If you take it local and tell them to put it through when they are already doing the same for a large job, it can be very economical. The time, effort and material cost is a huge saving over doing it yourself.


Hmmm, good point. The problem is I only want to do one thing at a time, otherwise I'll get overwhelmed!
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mobymutt
post Mar 15 2014, 03:28 PM
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Well, I just discovered why the passenger side seat belt worked so much smoother than the driver side:

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I'll post an ad in classifieds, but I don't expect anybody will want to supply me the just the pin and lever.
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mobymutt
post Mar 24 2014, 05:12 PM
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Picked up some parts this weekend to start my stash. Thanks to all the 914world members who contributed!

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Trying to get approval from the boss on the next set...
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mobymutt
post Mar 27 2014, 07:01 AM
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QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jan 19 2014, 03:27 PM) *

Dual carbs...better.

You should pull the engine tins off and look for mouse nests.


Can I pull all the tins off with engine still in the car?
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mepstein
post Mar 27 2014, 07:44 AM
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QUOTE(mobymutt @ Mar 27 2014, 09:01 AM) *

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jan 19 2014, 03:27 PM) *

Dual carbs...better.

You should pull the engine tins off and look for mouse nests.


Can I pull all the tins off with engine still in the car?


no. drop the engine. you will find plenty of - while i'm there things to do with the engine out.
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