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> RJ /6 engine mount - help me out!
Jeroen
post Jan 3 2005, 08:21 PM
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Can ya help me out???

The six engine mount I got came without instructions (just my luck (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif))
It isn't that complicated, but I'd like to check if I got things right before I weld it in...

Please check the pic and verify if I got the 911 engine mounts (the rubber thingies) bolted up the right way
(hanging through the hole)

Should the big washer go on top of the mount or under it?


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Jeroen
post Jan 3 2005, 08:23 PM
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There are also 4 "extra" bolts that came with the mount. 2 of which have a tubed sleeve
What are those for?


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seanery
post Jan 3 2005, 08:34 PM
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Jeroen,
Rich is real helpful send him an email and I'm sure he'll reply
a914guy@aol.com
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Steve
post Jan 3 2005, 08:41 PM
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The washer does go on top.
Its used in case the rubber gets hot and pulls through.
The washer will prevent your motor from dragging across the ground if this occurs.

The other bolts are used for bolting it to the firewall.
The instructions say the bolts are just used to hold it in place before you weld it.

I have the instructions filed in the garage.
I can dig them up and scan them.
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nickg
post Jan 3 2005, 08:42 PM
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the extra bolts are for the bulkhead to firewall mounting. they have a double wall to go thru on the bottom(hence the sleeve) i think the washer is correct on top
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Jeroen
post Jan 3 2005, 08:46 PM
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thanks! that's all I needed to know...
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Rusty
post Jan 3 2005, 08:50 PM
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IIRC, you need to bolt the mount to the firewall, then weld it in place. Bolts aren't enough.

-Lawrence
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Elliot_Cannon
post Jan 3 2005, 08:54 PM
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Definately do not forget to use the big washers on the top of the mounts. Joe Buckle had those mounts on his transmission and the PO didn't install anything on top of the mounts and his transmission ended up on the ground. With nothing on top the rubber will eventually pull through.
Cheers, Elliot
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Joe Bob
post Jan 3 2005, 09:18 PM
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Two of the bolts go thru a double wall in the firewall.....thats what the pinch tube(s) is/are for. The other two are for keeping the mount steady when you weld it....be sure to remove ALL the carpet inside the cab as it WILL catch on fire. Have someone with a spray bottle.....the paint will bubble and catch fire if you wled too much and not let it cool....

Too much welding is good.... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/blink.gif) Make sure those washers are on top of the mounts...one good downshift and the engine sits on top of the shift rod.....
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SirAndy
post Jan 3 2005, 09:23 PM
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did you buy a boxster ????

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) Andy


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Jeroen
post Jan 4 2005, 05:29 AM
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QUOTE (SirAndy @ Jan 4 2005, 05:23 AM)
did you buy a boxster ????

yeah... I wish (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)
it's just a print of this
(IMG:http://www.rennware.com/proj/914_idee/914R_tube.gif)
Just as a reminder of what it's supposed to be... someday (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)

Last time I spoke to Brad, he suggested to mount everything up (enginemount, engine and tranny) and put it in the car
Then tackweld the bulkhead-plate in place and drop the engine/tranny again and finish up the welding
He said that was best to prevent twisting of the engine/tranny, which could break the tranny mounts of the gearbox once the engine starts to torque...

Sounds like the hard way to do it, but if that's the way to go, that's what I'll do...
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Eric_Shea
post Jan 4 2005, 09:20 AM
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QUOTE
Last time I spoke to Brad, he suggested to mount everything up (enginemount, engine and tranny) and put it in the car Then tackweld the bulkhead-plate in place and drop the engine/tranny again and finish up the welding


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IronHillRestorations
post Jan 4 2005, 10:02 AM
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The shorter bolts (without the sleeves) are for the upper holes that bolt the mount through the firewall. The longer bolts with sleeves are for the lower mounting point. You drill the holes large enough for the sleeves, so you don't crush the lower firewall.

The four smaller bolts with nuts are for the club sport engine mounts.

Install the two long bolts (that go through the club sport mounts), upside down from the way you've got it put together in your photo. Of course this is much later when you are ready to install the engine (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)

As far as the big washers on top of the club sport mounts; I use the plates from the transmission mounts instead of the washers that Rich provides. You could also use the U channels from the outboard 4 cyl engine mount. Next time I think I'm going to make a nut plate with an all metal lock nut welded to the plate, which would make things a little easier.

I've installed four of these without test fitting the engine/trans, and no problems. Just make sure you get it properly centered, and the "shelf" part of the engine mount is the correct height, which IIRC is 7 1/4", but check with RJ to make sure of that measurement. All of the ones I installed sat right on the ledge formed by the lower firewall and floorpan, and were at the correct height.
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airsix
post Jan 4 2005, 11:54 AM
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Aren't all the bolts and sleeves just for installs where the owner bolts it in and drives the car to a a shop to be welded? If you are doing an install like Jeroen, with engine out and welder in-hand do you even need the to bolt it up?

-Ben M.
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J P Stein
post Jan 4 2005, 11:59 AM
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I did the same as Perry......put the sucker in where it belongs & have at it......mine is bolted in, BTW, but the Velious mount has 7-8 bolt holes.....it would prolly been easier to weld it in.
I put the concave washers above & below the mounts. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif)

There are doublers welded to the fwd side of the firewall at the bolt locations.


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IronHillRestorations
post Jan 4 2005, 12:44 PM
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QUOTE (airsix @ Jan 4 2005, 09:54 AM)
Aren't all the bolts and sleeves just for installs where the owner bolts it in and drives the car to a a shop to be welded? If you are doing an install like Jeroen, with engine out and welder in-hand do you even need the to bolt it up?

I guess so, but I like the idea of tying it into the entire firewall, inner and outer.

Factory 6's were OK though, and they were just welded to the outer firewall. Of course the single center mount of the factory 6's aren't as stable as the bulkhead mounts.
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Bleyseng
post Jan 6 2005, 08:48 PM
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I knew I forgot to give you something when I dropped off that mount!
Nah, it came in the box without any instructions from Brad.....

Geoff (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/dry.gif)
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Jeroen
post Jan 6 2005, 09:03 PM
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QUOTE (Bleyseng @ Jan 7 2005, 04:48 AM)
Nah, it came in the box without any instructions from Brad.....

I know... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)
Otherwise... no more Palm, Leffe or Hoegaarden for you (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/alfred.gif)
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Eric_Shea
post Jan 6 2005, 09:11 PM
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QUOTE
Aren't all the bolts and sleeves just for installs where the owner bolts it in and drives the car to a a shop to be welded? If you are doing an install like Jeroen, with engine out and welder in-hand do you even need the to bolt it up?


No. That's not what my instructions say. The sleeves are for the double walled firewall (as mikez mentioned). They say nothing about taking the bolts out. You bolt it in and you weld it.

Jeroen, if you want I can find my instructions and scan them for you.
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Eric_Shea
post Jan 6 2005, 09:14 PM
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QUOTE
Just make sure you get it properly centered, and the "shelf" part of the engine mount is the correct height, which IIRC is 7 1/4", but check with RJ to make sure of that measurement. All of the ones I installed sat right on the ledge formed by the lower firewall and floorpan, and were at the correct height.


(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/agree.gif)

JP are you sure your's is in the right location? It looks about 1/2" high from the pic. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif) (I hope not) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ohmy.gif)
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