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> Mark's ADHD/ADD/DWD 3.0 /6 conversion thread, Woohoo! It runs awesome, but it's never done....
Mark Henry
post Feb 14 2014, 12:23 PM
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QUOTE(Justinp71 @ Feb 14 2014, 01:16 PM) *

Nice thread! A carbed 3.0 is an awesome engine for a 914...

Have you given any thought to what you are using to seal the case? I used triple bond 1184, great stuff and it seals very well. Have a very good understanding as to how thick you want it and where you want it before starting.

Also make sure your case has the chamfers on both sides for the thru bolt o-rings and dont use rtv on the o-rings like wayne calls out!!! I had to pull my case back apart from doing that one...

good luck...


For the most part I'm using Supertec's sealant regime, BUT I admit I'm not a big fan of Curil T and I probably won't even open that package.

The Hysol you can see on the oil galley plugs, etc. earlier in this thread, instead of using the usual JB weld for this job.


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Justinp71
post Feb 14 2014, 12:44 PM
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Curil is a pita, like dealing with tree sap (gloves work well). But I had no leaks when I used it to replace my cams about 5 years ago.
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Mark Henry
post Feb 16 2014, 12:07 PM
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This was a slow go making the jigs but here is my first phenolic spacer. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

5 more to go, but I'm also going to make 6 aluminum spacers to back up the injector notch so the phenolic spacer is fully supported.


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Mark Henry
post Feb 16 2014, 12:08 PM
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Finished spacer


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Mark Henry
post Feb 16 2014, 06:24 PM
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Soaring through this job now, the chips are a flying (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sunglasses.gif)



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Mark Henry
post Feb 16 2014, 06:25 PM
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1979 3.0 big port head

Note the injector notch.



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Mark Henry
post Feb 16 2014, 06:26 PM
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Phenolic spacer


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Mark Henry
post Feb 16 2014, 06:27 PM
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Aluminum spacer


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Mark Henry
post Feb 16 2014, 06:36 PM
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So why am I doing this?
When using the stock weber manifold the injector notch is way to close to the edge of the manifold to ever seal proper.
Also using just a phenolic spacer alone will also cause issues later on, as it will eventually leak.

The phenolic spacer will also help avoid carb heat soak issues.


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Mark Henry
post Feb 16 2014, 06:37 PM
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The final product (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

Edit: note I have the spacers on ass backwards, the aluminum spacer goes on the bottom to cover the FI notch, then the phenolic spacer and manifold.


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sixnotfour
post Feb 17 2014, 03:06 AM
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why not just fill the notch with weld ?
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Mark Henry
post Feb 17 2014, 08:27 AM
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QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Feb 17 2014, 04:06 AM) *

why not just fill the notch with weld ?


Three reasons
1/ Even if I did I'd still want the phenolic spacer...seeing as it's good enough for PMO
2/ What if I decide I want to go FI later.
3/ I'm a cheap SOB and this cost me nothing but time, even the materials were free to me.
4/ welding would have also cost me mo' money...whooops...that's four reasons...
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Mark Henry
post Feb 17 2014, 10:47 AM
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So change gears a bit, not going to get much done today, family day weekend so I have to spend some time with the kiddies.

My hell holes and tank install. I know my holes are nice, but they still have a hair of surface rust, so I'm wondering what to do. The back pad area has no rust, that's just glue. I don't want to sand blast, that shit gets everywhere.
Thinking wire wheel and por-15 or something like that?

Guess I should also cut off the /4 mounts?


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MrHyde
post Feb 17 2014, 10:58 AM
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I took a wire wheel on a grinder to take the paint off my entire car.. Well… the parts I didn't just cut out. :-) With YOUR hell hole you might just get away with a rag with soap and water to clean that up ! :-)
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Mark Henry
post Feb 17 2014, 11:06 AM
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QUOTE(MrHyde @ Feb 17 2014, 11:58 AM) *

I took a wire wheel on a grinder to take the paint off my entire car.. Well… the parts I didn't just cut out. :-) With YOUR hell hole you might just get away with a rag with soap and water to clean that up ! :-)


Yeh I got to go at it with some LA Awesome first, but it does have some surface rust.

BTW I posted those pics just to tease you Mike. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)
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Mark Henry
post Feb 17 2014, 11:52 AM
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Cleaned it up a bit...now I am just teasing Mike (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

Such a small area I'll do it right. I'll go at this with a wire wheel on a die grinder and epoxy it.


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Mark Henry
post Feb 17 2014, 11:59 AM
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Back to the intake for a second.

I ported and epoxy painted these a while back, just soaked these in gas to make sure they are fuel proof.....looking good!

You can also see how little meat is left on the head side of the manifold after porting for the big port heads, All the more reason to back them up with those aluminum spacers.


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MDG
post Feb 17 2014, 12:23 PM
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QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Feb 17 2014, 11:47 AM) *

Guess I should also cut off the /4 mounts?


They tend to get in the way if you don't . . .


Also, are you going to be using the relay board? If not, get rid of those brackets too.
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Mark Henry
post Feb 17 2014, 04:02 PM
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QUOTE(MDG @ Feb 17 2014, 01:23 PM) *

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Feb 17 2014, 11:47 AM) *

Guess I should also cut off the /4 mounts?


They tend to get in the way if you don't . . .


Also, are you going to be using the relay board? If not, get rid of those brackets too.

I've been wondering if I should run a board or not...
How do you hook into the factory harness with out a board?
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Van914
post Feb 17 2014, 04:54 PM
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Mark,
I have a connector I bought from Perry for mine. Sold the car before I completed the Relay board removal. I still have it if you are interested.
Thanks
Van
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