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> Air Pressure Sensor, How to test
Allan
post Jan 5 2005, 06:22 PM
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Are these things supposed to hold a vacuum? My car was running pretty well when I pulled it out but I seem to remember seeing something on how to test.


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Bleyseng
post Jan 5 2005, 06:58 PM
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Take a vacuum tester and pump up to 15hg and wait 5 minutes. After 5 min is it still holding 15hg or how much has it leaked down???

Geoff
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jr91472
post Jan 5 2005, 07:01 PM
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suck on it and then see if it will hold your tongue (you know, like a straw) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/dry.gif) ..........no really...it will at least tell you if the diaphram is intact.

flame on..... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ar15.gif)
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Bleyseng
post Jan 5 2005, 07:07 PM
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You can't suck enough to tell!! unless, shoot I won't go there.....



Geoff (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ohmy.gif)
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SLITS
post Jan 5 2005, 07:16 PM
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See PBanders site on the D-Jet System.

I thought it was pump to 20 and then time the bleed down.....something like no more than 2" per minute.
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Allan
post Jan 5 2005, 07:51 PM
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I did suck on it and couldn't even get a vacuum. Maybe it takes more suction than I can give (probably a good thing around here). I hope it's not bad.
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Allan
post Jan 5 2005, 08:22 PM
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I couldn't get the PBanders page to load but I found this on Rennlist. It says to blow into the sensor. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif)

Pressure Sensor

Located at a bracket near the battery, the pressure sensor is the single most important sensor in the fuel injection system. Consisting of an iron core surrounded by
a pair of coils, mechanically connected to a thin metal diaphragm, this sensor measures the pressure at the intake air distributor relative to the ambient pressure
(that is, it can correct for changes in altitude).
It can fail in several ways. The coils can develop an electrical fault, or the diaphragm can leak. A defective sensor will often result in a very rich running condition.
However, I have seen one fault resulting in the mixture becoming so lean that the engine wouldn't run. The coils can be tested by measuring the resistance between
terminals #7 & # 15 (should be about 90 ohms) and between #8 & #10 (should be about 350 ohms). You can try blowing into the sensor to test the diaphragm.
Although they carry different part numbers, the only difference between the 1.7L and 2.0L pressure sensors is calibration. I will describe how you can change this
yourself later on.
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Cap'n Krusty
post Jan 5 2005, 08:26 PM
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" 'Blow' is a figure of speech", he said. And, in this case, it won't tell you much. Gotta pull vacuum on it. You should be able to suck on it through a tight fitting hose, and stopper it with your tongue. If you can't pull any vacuum, it's likely toast.
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Bleyseng
post Jan 5 2005, 08:38 PM
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You can pull a really weak vacuum on it with sucking on it but if the diaphram is cracked then it will seem to hold a vacuum.
Test it with a mittyvac like I said to 15hg to find out. We test them at 15hg cuz thats what you are supposed to pull at idle. It should hold that for 5 minutes without bleeding down. If it does bleed down its got big problems.
I have fixed/repaired about 20 of those darn things for 2.0l motors.

Geoff
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Allan
post Jan 5 2005, 09:45 PM
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I'll try and get one of our instrumentation techs to test it tomorrow. I'll report on the results.
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DJsRepS
post Jan 6 2005, 05:10 AM
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If you pull vac by mouth and cap it by toung and cant get it to hold your toung with the vac you made its toast. If it does hold your toung then buy the Mightyvac and do a real test. Tool at Sears or Flaps $25-$45. Good for checking the vac adv on the dist as well.
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Bleyseng
post Jan 6 2005, 12:35 PM
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pic of the test


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Allan
post Jan 6 2005, 12:46 PM
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Thanks a ton, I think its done. When I suck on it I can hear air going through it. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif) Just another freekin cost.
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SLITS
post Jan 6 2005, 01:14 PM
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http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/DJetParts.htm

http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/manif...sure_sensor.htm
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Allan
post Jan 6 2005, 01:38 PM
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Thanks for the link Ron. I'm sure it's bad. Someone has been playing with it as well. The seal for the adjustment is gone as well as the cover.
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SLITS
post Jan 6 2005, 01:43 PM
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Links work perfectly for me.

If the seal is gone off the adjustment screw, someone has screwed with it.

Which one do you need or should I ask what Bosch OEM is on yours?
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Allan
post Jan 6 2005, 02:05 PM
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Bleyseng
post Jan 6 2005, 02:17 PM
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is it still riveted together or screwed??
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Allan
post Jan 6 2005, 02:23 PM
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Still got the rivets in it.
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Bleyseng
post Jan 6 2005, 03:44 PM
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Well, my bets the diaphram is cracked then.

Geoff
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