Stalls out at 4400 RPM, Stumped! Options

[r_towle]

You never said if this was happening before you changed the fuel lines....

Was it?

[Jake Raby]

Nate is spot on, too.. Trace your footsteps back. I try to only change one factor at a time, that way I know when the problem started and what the variable was. "new" parts are pretty much junk.

[Mblizzard]

You never said if this was happening before you changed the fuel lines....

Was it?

Sorry I guess I was not clear. But it was not happening before I installed the SS lines. But I also had to pull the heads to retrieve a part that fell in the intake. Another long story.





Banged around a bit but good compression afterwards and the valves seemed fine. Did not mess with the dizzy. It is the same as before.

So I have to think it has something to do with the fuel lines. I am betting I swapped the lines around

[Jake Raby]

Yep, a sheet metal screw was eaten. You'll make that mistake once.

[r_towle]

Just so many things to go back through and verify at this point.

Do the basics....timing, valve adjustment, plugs, wires, cap etc.

[Mblizzard]

Yep, a sheet metal screw was eaten. You'll make that mistake once.

Yes I will never do it again. I was very lucky! You remember the painful lessons!

[Mblizzard]

Just so many things to go back through and verify at this point.

Do the basics....timing, valve adjustment, plugs, wires, cap etc.

Well while I may be a slow learner, I have picked check the basics up from all of the help I have received here. I set the valves when the engine was out. Checked them multiple times. Ran compression test all 135 plus. Timing is at 30 degrees. Plugs look good maybe a little rich but not bad. Wires are new and removing one at a time shows all are firing. Cap and rotor are new and not burnt. Carbs were not changed other adjusting after setting timing and balancing.

Won't get to work on it until Thursday. This work thing is a drag.

But it never hurts to be reminded to do the basics. That advice from those on this board has saved me a lot of grief. Regardless of what you think you know, that advice will always be sound.

So I have to look at the lines and filters or just dump it on Jakes door and hope he will fix it for free? Just have to get past that gate thing! Seriously at some point Jake will be doing the engine just got to save a few more dollars.

[r_towle]

Well it's fuel, air or timing.
Narrow your search.

Fuel, you got that path to search.
Air would be valves and properly setup linkage on the carbs.
Timing....see what the timing looks like at 3500 rpms and 4400 rpms...

Rich

[Jake Raby]

Yep, a sheet metal screw was eaten. You'll make that mistake once.

Yes I will never do it again. I was very lucky! You remember the painful lessons!

Yeah. I made it when I was 10.

[ThePaintedMan]

Mike,
After you have gone back through the basics, consider this. Kevin taught me to have a good quality fuel pressure gauge inline with the carbs to help this very scenario. You can order a Summit Racing/Jegs one for just a few bucks. Plumb it in line with the carb inlet line. Then you'll be able to see if you're getting adequate fuel at idle at least. You can take it one step further with a GoPro or phone camera and videotape the gauge as you make a couple of runs up to 4400. This will at least tell us whether fuel is the culprit, or as Rich and Jake and others have suggested, air/spark.

[wndsrfr]

To separate fuel from spark issues here's a neat easy way to do it.
Rev it with no load, sitting still in neutral. If it quits at 4400, it is ignition related since very little fuel flow is needed.
If it is quitting due to fuel restriction, it'll happen at even lower rpm if you power brake it and go wot in third gear, say. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[type47]

It wouldn't be his 30 degree timing spec would it? Factory spec is 27 btdc at 3500

[Mblizzard]

It wouldn't be his 30 degree timing spec would it? Factory spec is 27 btdc at 3500

That is for FI I am running carbs.

[zambezi]

have you verified float levels?

[Mblizzard]

have you verified float levels?

I had the set appropriately prior to removing the engine to retrieve the lost screw. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

So I don't think I did anything to alter the previous settings. But after swapping the fuel lines the carbs are a place to look next with the possibility of debris in the tank blocking something.