 starter motor wont engage |
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| rosenfe |
 Mar 15 2014, 03:19 PM
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#1
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Senior Member  Group: Members Posts: 552 Joined: 14-October 13 From: northern california Member No.: 16,512 Region Association: None  |
on my 73,new starter motor,had been fine,a few times woudnt hear starter motor when turning key,then it would engage and start,now no starter motor at all.battery new,lights come on.is this a problem withignition switch.fuses under dash ok.anything else i should look at
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Replies(1 - 2)
| stugray |
Mar 15 2014, 04:02 PM
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#2
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,824 Joined: 17-September 09 From: Longmont, CO Member No.: 10,819 Region Association: None |
I have suggested this starter test before but it scares people.
On the starter there are two large studs and a smaller one. One of the large studs is the solenoid Input, it goes to battery and is always HOT. The other large stud is the starter input and is hot only when the solenoid is engaged. The smaller stud is what engages the solenoid (which engages the starter plunger AND applies power to the starter input). The smaller stud only gets power when you turn the key to "Start". The test is: Jumper from the Solenoid input "HOT" to the Starter input. This should spin the starter but not try to start the car because the starter is not "engaged". Jumper from the Solenoid input "HOT" to the smaller stud. This should engage the solenoid AND the starter and try to start the engine. The engine would start if the key is in the "IGN" position. I use an old screwdriver as the "Jumper". But sometimes you need a hefty wire to do the first test as some of the terminal blocks have a raised insulator to keep you from easily shorting across the large terminals. When your ignition switch wears out, the screwdriver across the large & small terminals is how you start the car. (I used to be able to do it in 5 seconds with my eyes closed without crawling under the car) DONT try this with the car in gear! |
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| rosenfe |
Mar 15 2014, 05:16 PM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 552 Joined: 14-October 13 From: northern california Member No.: 16,512 Region Association: None |
QUOTE(stugray @ Mar 15 2014, 03:02 PM)  I have suggested this starter test before but it scares people. On the starter there are two large studs and a smaller one. One of the large studs is the solenoid Input, it goes to battery and is always HOT. The other large stud is the starter input and is hot only when the solenoid is engaged. The smaller stud is what engages the solenoid (which engages the starter plunger AND applies power to the starter input). The smaller stud only gets power when you turn the key to "Start". The test is: Jumper from the Solenoid input "HOT" to the Starter input. This should spin the starter but not try to start the car because the starter is not "engaged". Jumper from the Solenoid input "HOT" to the smaller stud. This should engage the solenoid AND the starter and try to start the engine. The engine would start if the key is in the "IGN" position. I use an old screwdriver as the "Jumper". But sometimes you need a hefty wire to do the first test as some of the terminal blocks have a raised insulator to keep you from easily shorting across the large terminals. When your ignition switch wears out, the screwdriver across the large & small terminals is how you start the car. (I used to be able to do it in 5 seconds with my eyes closed without crawling under the car) DONT try this with the car in gear! THAT WORKED,GOT TI STARTED,now to replace switch.any tips? |
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