LEDs For Front Turnsignal Bucket |
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LEDs For Front Turnsignal Bucket |
sportlicherFahrer |
Jun 15 2014, 02:49 AM
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#41
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Nothing to see here. Group: Members Posts: 1,070 Joined: 18-April 05 From: Tacoma, WA Member No.: 3,945 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
+1 for front Euro as well please! REALLY like the way the full Euro/Brake set up looks on the rear.
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jacksun |
Jun 15 2014, 06:12 AM
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#42
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Member Group: Members Posts: 236 Joined: 8-August 13 From: mi Member No.: 16,224 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
just and idea to be used or not.
why not tie in the turn signals with the side marker light.. it blinks with the turn signal. |
orthobiz |
Jun 15 2014, 06:45 AM
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#43
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,754 Joined: 8-January 07 From: Cadillac, Michigan Member No.: 7,438 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
US lens for me. Especially after my rear kit arrives and is installed!
Paul |
Spoke |
Jun 15 2014, 07:10 AM
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#44
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Jerry Group: Members Posts: 6,964 Joined: 29-October 04 From: Allentown, PA Member No.: 3,031 Region Association: None |
Haven't made too much progress on the fronts. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
There are 2 issues to work out with the mounting of the LEDs on this board. Given that the LEDs will be mounted such that they are at 45 (or so) degree angle from the board, I've been in consultation with the guys at work on how to mount the LEDs about 3/16 to 1/4 of an inch above the board, then bend all the leads so the LEDs all point in the same direction (toward the front of the car). The second issue is how to secure the LEDs to the board as to take the stress of vibration off of the solder on the long leads. We're thinking the LED body will need to be glued, caulked, or conformal coated to the board. |
75-914 |
Jun 19 2014, 08:09 PM
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#45
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 7 Joined: 4-March 14 From: Prattville, AL Member No.: 17,073 Region Association: None |
sent PM
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Spoke |
Jun 26 2014, 09:16 PM
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#46
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Jerry Group: Members Posts: 6,964 Joined: 29-October 04 From: Allentown, PA Member No.: 3,031 Region Association: None |
Had some down time on the rear LED boards while my buddy's 3d printer was repaired and the flow of plastic clips dried up so I worked the layout of the front LED boards.
Seems more interest in the Euro front bucket so I'm starting with that version. It would be ideal to make a universal board do US and Euro format unfortunately the white running light LEDs have a higher voltage drop than the amber thus 3 white LEDs are in series versus 4 amber LEDs per string. Therefore it's difficult to make a Euro board into a US board. Here's some 3d drawings of the board so far. The board has 48 amber turnsignal LEDs and 21 white running light LEDs. There will be a configuration option with the Euro lights: The amber turnsignal LEDs can be configured to be dimly on for running lights or off for running lights. Here's what the board looks like now when viewed from the front of the 914. Here's a side view of the board. As SirAndy pointed out with the rear lights, the dispersion angle is tight with these LEDs so they must be pointing in the direction that light is intended; that is directly in front of the car. Mounting them perpendicular to the board will not do as the light will be pointed into the sky at about a 45 degree angle. This pic shows a close-up of the one difficulty with the LED angle that I'm trying to solve. Unlike this pic of the board, the leads will be bent and perpendicular though the board. Somehow the LED has to be soldered about 3/16 of an inch off the board then leads bent so the LED is at about a 45 degree angle. That's one issue. The second is once the leads are bent, how to take the stress of securing the LED off of the soft solder on the leads. Eventually the vehicle vibration through the LED bodies will wear out the solder and the solder will fail. Somehow the body of the LED must be secured to the board by other mechanical means. Right now I'm thinking about conformal coating or caulking of some sort. Any ideas on soldering the LEDs 3/16" off the board or securing the body to the board are welcome. |
swooshdave |
Jun 26 2014, 09:40 PM
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#47
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Member Group: Members Posts: 184 Joined: 11-June 14 From: Portland Member No.: 17,475 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Drill the holes at an angle?
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sportlicherFahrer |
Jun 26 2014, 09:48 PM
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#48
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Nothing to see here. Group: Members Posts: 1,070 Joined: 18-April 05 From: Tacoma, WA Member No.: 3,945 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Rubber support strips under each row, or clear plastic epoxy on either the whole board or a bead on each individual LED?
Depending on how deep these are mounted in the bucket the housing may help reflection, and the lenses are fluted to help direct light. Not sure if anyone has played with the configuration yet to see. |
tomeric914 |
Jun 26 2014, 10:12 PM
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#49
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One Lap of America in a 914! Group: Members Posts: 1,259 Joined: 25-May 08 From: Syracuse, NY Member No.: 9,101 Region Association: North East States |
Build a jig to prebend LED leads at a 45 degree angle and solder through the board normally?
http://www.kingbrightusa.com/ApplicationNo...h-Hole_LEDs.pdf |
Spoke |
Jul 20 2014, 06:55 AM
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#50
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Jerry Group: Members Posts: 6,964 Joined: 29-October 04 From: Allentown, PA Member No.: 3,031 Region Association: None |
Just about ready to fab the first prototypes of the front marker lights.
The board will have 3 options: 1) Euro: Cool white LEDs on the bottom on brightly with running lights; top amber LEDs on brightly with turnsignal, off with running lights. 2) Euro: Same as 1 except the amber LEDs on dimly with running lights. 3) US: All LEDs are amber; all on dimly with running lights, brightly with turnsignal. Here's how the board looks now. There are a total of 69 LEDs. In Euro trim, 21 are cool white and 48 are amber. In US trim, all 69 are amber. On the back of the board, notice how few resistors are behind the white running LEDs. This is done to spread out the heat emitting components for the running lights to keep the temperatures a low as possible. I did a mock-up with a piece of wood with a couple of LEDs mounted. This is about where the board will sit. At this time I'm leaning towards metal clips on each end of the board which will slide under the lens gasket and be held on by the lens screws. |
cary |
Jul 20 2014, 07:44 AM
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#51
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,900 Joined: 26-January 04 From: Sherwood Oregon Member No.: 1,608 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
I'm in for a US version pair. Changed my mind, I'll take a Euro set. Way to cool.I'd like the blanking version. White off when flasher/turn signal is on.
Can we get them with amber and clear/white on when in the running/headlight mode? This post has been edited by cary: Dec 19 2014, 12:13 PM |
Zimms |
Jul 20 2014, 08:20 AM
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#52
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,413 Joined: 11-February 06 From: Michigan Member No.: 5,565 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
I am in for option 2
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sportlicherFahrer |
Jul 20 2014, 08:24 AM
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#53
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Nothing to see here. Group: Members Posts: 1,070 Joined: 18-April 05 From: Tacoma, WA Member No.: 3,945 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Still in for one set of option 1 please.
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Spoke |
Aug 4 2014, 10:03 AM
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#54
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Jerry Group: Members Posts: 6,964 Joined: 29-October 04 From: Allentown, PA Member No.: 3,031 Region Association: None |
The first prototype boards arrived today. The fit is ok but will need some tweaks.
I'll build up the first units this weekend and see how they look. Because the LED turnsignals may cause some interaction with the stock turnsignal flasher unit, I was thinking about adding an optional power resistor on a pigtail which then would sit in the base of the front bucket. The power resistor would make the flasher unit happy and eliminate any interaction with the LED lights. Attached thumbnail(s) |
JmuRiz |
Aug 4 2014, 10:14 AM
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#55
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,414 Joined: 30-December 02 From: NoVA Member No.: 50 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Very cool stuff, are you going to do one like in post #6...those would be great daytime running lights for clear lenses!
I'll keep watching this thread...once front is figured out I'll order some rears and fronts. |
914Mike |
Aug 4 2014, 11:18 AM
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#56
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Member Group: Members Posts: 330 Joined: 27-January 03 From: San Jose, CA Member No.: 198 |
This was posted in my LED brake thread. One picture says a lot. While that may be true, matching the color is not always the desired outcome. Case in point, rear Euro lenses on US housings. Most people just slap them on, not realizing that their rear tail lights and side markers have turned to amber, which is not exactly legal. I solved that on my '71 by putting red LEDs in those sockets, which color the amber lenses red until the amber turn signal LEDs flash. Loss of brightness from the red LEDs was actually what I needed to balance the tail light and side marker against the turn signals. And it looks pretty cool too, all red in back like it's supposed to be, then the amber just completely washes out the red when blinking. |
Cairo94507 |
Aug 4 2014, 01:04 PM
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#57
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Michael Group: Members Posts: 9,650 Joined: 1-November 08 From: Auburn, CA Member No.: 9,712 Region Association: Northern California |
Hi Spoke:
I am hoping that when Scotty is ready for lights in my car we will be able to buy one complete set, front/rear and side markers in LED. |
Harpo |
Aug 4 2014, 04:17 PM
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#58
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,304 Joined: 21-August 11 From: Motor City aka Detroit Member No.: 13,469 Region Association: None |
Thanks for the update. Looks good
David |
GermermanCarGuy |
Aug 4 2014, 06:46 PM
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#59
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GermanCarGuy Group: Members Posts: 81 Joined: 13-May 14 From: Rapid City, SD Member No.: 17,346 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Haven't made too much progress on the fronts. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) There are 2 issues to work out with the mounting of the LEDs on this board. Given that the LEDs will be mounted such that they are at 45 (or so) degree angle from the board, I've been in consultation with the guys at work on how to mount the LEDs about 3/16 to 1/4 of an inch above the board, then bend all the leads so the LEDs all point in the same direction (toward the front of the car). The second issue is how to secure the LEDs to the board as to take the stress of vibration off of the solder on the long leads. We're thinking the LED body will need to be glued, caulked, or conformal coated to the board. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sunglasses.gif) Referring to your "how to secure" issue... how about mounting the bulbs straight in to provide secure solder contacts, bend bulbs to 45 degrees for proper alignment, then add (front and/or back) a soft gel coat sealant similar to what AMC used on early 70's Jeep power control modules. With bulb tips protruding, the whole unit would be secured against excessive vibration and have a level of water-proofing. Drawback -- thickness. Any thoughts of bundling fronts and rears (w/side markers as a 2-wire plug-in upgrade option) together. I'd be game for a complete set, Euro style please. I'd really like to add this upgrade to my build. Thanks |
mobymutt |
Aug 4 2014, 08:14 PM
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#60
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 548 Joined: 16-December 13 From: Kingston, Ontario, Canada Member No.: 16,770 Region Association: Canada |
That's one issue. The second is once the leads are bent, how to take the stress of securing the LED off of the soft solder on the leads. Eventually the vehicle vibration through the LED bodies will wear out the solder and the solder will fail. Somehow the body of the LED must be secured to the board by other mechanical means. Right now I'm thinking about conformal coating or caulking of some sort. Any ideas on soldering the LEDs 3/16" off the board or securing the body to the board are welcome. I know nothing about circuit board design, but that won't stop me from chiming in on this. BTW, I think both these lights and the LED tail lights are awesome, they are on my Christmas list. First, I am not convinced that the vibrational stress on the soldered connections will really be all that different on the long bent leads vs the standard ones. That being said, I understand your concern, better to be safe than sorry! What if you make a 3D printed support that follows the profile of the circuit board, but is stair-shaped in cross section -- this support piece would go between the LEDs and the circuit board, and provide secure support for the bulbs. Perhaps you could integrate the bucket mounting features into it as well. I can model something up if you think this idea has any merit, just PM me. |
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