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> 914 sits low on the left side
Downerman
post Mar 31 2014, 10:05 AM
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Very weird and I don't really understand why. Koni's front KYB's in the rear. Orange springs in the rears and all 911 brakes/rotors tip to tail. The shock adjusters have the same amount of threads when I remove the rubber tops (in the rear trunk). When I get a basic measurement from ground to middle of the fender it's nearing 3/4 of an inch difference from passenger to drivers side. Drivers is lower. Just bought the car a couple of weeks ago and the springs/shocks were supposed to be all new but I'm wondering. Any thoughts?

Dave

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chads74
post Mar 31 2014, 10:26 AM
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Could be how your front torsion bars are adjusted. I had a simialr issue with mine. Check and see if they are adjusted the same, or wait till the pros chime in
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914itis
post Mar 31 2014, 10:39 AM
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Check rear suspension ear and arm.
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bdstone914
post Mar 31 2014, 10:40 AM
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Is it low in both the front and back ?
Do check the front torsion bar adjustment first.
Bruce
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JStroud
post Mar 31 2014, 10:40 AM
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Had that problem on one car, only in the rear though, ended up being one trailing arm had the inner bushing crumble and disappear, new bushing, even now.
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rhodyguy
post Mar 31 2014, 10:59 AM
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take measurements on 2 common points on the front other than the centers of the wheel openings. example, where the rocker panels meet the fenders. a framing square, rather than a tape measure, laid on the floor is much easier to measure with and takes out a few variables. if the car was corner balanced during the alignment process the driver's weight may have been taken into account. try measuring with the driver's seat weighted with your approx weight.
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Downerman
post Mar 31 2014, 02:34 PM
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Wouldn't that make the drivers side worse with my fat butt sitting in it?
Thinking you didn't catch that it's the drivers side that's low.

Dave



QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Mar 31 2014, 09:59 AM) *

take measurements on 2 common points on the front other than the centers of the wheel openings. example, where the rocker panels meet the fenders. a framing square, rather than a tape measure, laid on the floor is much easier to measure with and takes out a few variables. if the car was corner balanced during the alignment process the driver's weight may have been taken into account. try measuring with the driver's seat weighted with your approx weight.

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914_teener
post Mar 31 2014, 03:07 PM
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QUOTE(JStroud @ Mar 31 2014, 09:40 AM) *

Had that problem on one car, only in the rear though, ended up being one trailing arm had the inner bushing crumble and disappear, new bushing, even now.




(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Check the bushings on the trailing arms if the rear is uneven.
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r_towle
post Mar 31 2014, 04:36 PM
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measure up from the floor to the middle of the front torsion bar adjuster (on the rear of the torsion bar)

If they are exactly the same, you need to look at the rear.

It can seem pretty close up front, but be pretty far off.
Accurate measuring is hard, but can be done.

If you have to do this on the floor, I use a block of wood cut to the height of one side, then see if it fits under the other side.

A few turns on the adjuster can reset the car quite a bit.

The other fat butt issue is the spring on the drivers side can get compressed over time because there is always a driver, and not always a passenger.

Should not be an issue if you have replaced the stock springs.
Could be an issue, easy to solve, flip the shocks and springs from one side to the other...

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rgalla9146
post Mar 31 2014, 06:05 PM
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To determine which end of the car is the problem do the following;
Remove the gravel pan under the steering rack.
Lift the front tires just off the ground by placing your floor jack dead center on the front suspension crossmember. The narrower the contact with the crossmember the better. Now measure the rear height; ground to some repeatable, common point on left and right side of the chassis. Compare left and right side measurement. Distance should be very close.
Lower the front and roll the car back and forth 3 or 4 feet a few times.
Now lift the rear tires just off the ground by placing the jack under the center rib at the rear of the transaxle . Be careful of linkages and any interference.
Now measure the front height. Ground to a common point on each side. The round donut thing is a good choice. Distance should be pretty close.
This is not accurate for corner balancing.
It will tell you if you have a broken/out of adjustment front torsion bar or coil spring or broken rear inner ear.
KYBs' are not a good choice for our cars. Just my opinion.
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Downerman
post Apr 1 2014, 10:03 AM
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I will take this on later in the week. With respect to the KYB's the previous owner had Koni's on the rear but said it was to stiff. I have never owned KYB's and now you have my curiosity on why they are not suited well for the 914?

Dave
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76-914
post Apr 1 2014, 01:26 PM
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One is 4 times as much and rebuildable. Koni's and Bilstien's are equal quality products. KYB's are throw aways. JMHO
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Spoke
post Apr 1 2014, 01:40 PM
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QUOTE(Downerman @ Apr 1 2014, 12:03 PM) *

I have never owned KYB's and now you have my curiosity on why they are not suited well for the 914?


As mentioned, they are inexpensive and very stiff. Sometimes referred to as Kill Your Back.
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mepstein
post Apr 1 2014, 03:51 PM
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Kyb's suck. Pmbperformance has boges that work well for good price.
Many people over do it on the springs. 100lbs gave my car a nice ride.
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