to do list, done list, and a few questions Options

[76-914]

If the matched set of injectors don't fix your high idle, try turning the ECU adjustment knob toward full rich a click at a time.

It took setting mine to full rich with the air bleed screw nearly closed to bring my idle within spec.

Thanks I'll give it a try once I get the new injectors! Is that CW or CCW?

Green injectors will not work very well. Spray pattern too much plus your mpg will decrease.

Good to know! I figured that might be part of the problem.

I'm hoping the new matched, cleaned, and tested injectors will fix the wrong-ish feel the engine has. Right now I feel like my 1.6 Ghia has more bite off the line than my 914. Although I've tuned the hell out of that Ghia for that last 2 years, and everything on it is well up to spec. Hopefully once I get everything sorted with the 914 it'll feel more nimble.

You have a ways to go with the tune if that Ghia is giving the Teener a run for it's money. My Ghia wouldn't pull a sick whore off a piss pot. CW = rich, CCW=lean.

[era vulgaris]

You have a ways to go with the tune if that Ghia is giving the Teener a run for it's money. My Ghia wouldn't pull a sick whore off a piss pot. CW = rich, CCW=lean.

Ha! You know people say that sort of thing about Ghias, and it makes me wonder if someone built mine to a bigger displacement than 1600 at some point way in the past and that info just got lost. It gave the TR6 I used to own a run for its money. Not exactly a fast car either, but ~40 more HP in that straight 6 than a stock 1600dp VW motor and the Ghia could keep up. And I spent a year and a half rebuilding and tuning that TR6 before I sold it off so it's not like it was run down or anything.

But the 914 revs easily and sounds great. There's just something missing in terms of forward motion! Definitely no clutch slip though, so it's got to be with the tuning.

Anyway, thanks for the head's up on the mixture adjustment. I'll try it out and see what happens when I get the new injectors.

BTW, this is my first FI car so forgive the dumb question that's about to follow. If I disconnect the fuel line to replace the injectors, I know fuel from the tank can't make it past the fuel pump. But will fuel from the tank come gushing out the return line, or is there a one-way valve or anything to prevent that?
In other words, do I need to drain the tank to replace the injectors?

[dlee6204]

BTW, this is my first FI car so forgive the dumb question that's about to follow. If I disconnect the fuel line to replace the injectors, I know fuel from the tank can't make it past the fuel pump. But will fuel from the tank come gushing out the return line, or is there a one-way valve or anything to prevent that?
In other words, do I need to drain the tank to replace the injectors?

You won't drain the tank by just removing a fuel injector or just by disconecting a fuel line on top of the engine. Upon removing the fuel rail a little fuel will come out but not a lot.


By the time you get this car sorted out you should bring it to Okteenerfest this fall and have some real fun. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[era vulgaris]

You won't drain the tank by just removing a fuel injector or just by disconecting a fuel line on top of the engine. Upon removing the fuel rail a little fuel will come out but not a lot.

Awesome, thanks!

By the time you get this car sorted out you should bring it to Okteenerfest this fall and have some real fun. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

If it can make it, I think I might try and get out there!

[poorsche914]

If it can make it, I think I might try and get out there!

If the 914 isn't roadworthy by then, bring the Ghia (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[Dave_Darling]

But will fuel from the tank come gushing out the return line, or is there a one-way valve or anything to prevent that?

The fuel-pressure regulator will not allow fuel to go backward through it. You don't have to drain the tank, but you should be prepared for the several tablespoons worth of fuel (which may be under pressure if it hasn't bled down yet) that are in the lines on top of the motor to come leaking out.

--DD

[era vulgaris]

The fuel-pressure regulator will not allow fuel to go backward through it. You don't have to drain the tank, but you should be prepared for the several tablespoons worth of fuel (which may be under pressure if it hasn't bled down yet) that are in the lines on top of the motor to come leaking out.

--DD

Awesome, good to know! I'll have a mason jar ready to catch it. Thanks!

[era vulgaris]

So is the mixture knob on the ecu supposed to have any effect on idle speed? Mine was set almost all the way to full rich, but bringing it all the way back toward lean had zero effect on my idle speed. I left it on the midpoint mark, for now.

I am completely stumped with this idle speed issue. Nothing I do will get the idle below 1200rpm. I've replaced every vacuum hose, all 4 runner boots, intake manifold gaskets, oil breather gasket, cold start valve gasket, throttle body gasket, adjusted the valves, adjusted the decel valve, and set the timing....and still I'm at 1200 with the idle screw all the way closed!!! What else is there?!

If I can't get it figured out by the end of the summer, I think I'm gonna do a cam and carb swap and have a local shop built it to a bigger displacement so I actually have some power. I took the car on a trip to visit my folks about 150 miles away over the weekend, and at highway speeds it had a hell of a time not losing speed on even the slightest uphill grade, in 5th gear above 3K rpm.

[boxsterfan]

Auxilliary Air Regulator (AAR) leaking? Try plugging input hose and see if idle drops.

[era vulgaris]

Auxilliary Air Regulator (AAR) leaking? Try plugging input hose and see if idle drops.

I removed the AAR because it was stuck open (mentioned in original post). Ports for it are currently plugged. Before pulling it, the idle was up in the 2K area.

[boxsterfan]

Any rust holes in the plenum allowing extra air in? Of course, might have to take it off to have a good look. Not sure if you looked at that when you redid the runner boots and intake runner gaskets.

Also, maybe a leaky PCV valve? Try plugging that one also.

[era vulgaris]

Any rust holes in the plenum allowing extra air in? Of course, might have to take it off to have a good look. Not sure if you looked at that when you redid the runner boots and intake runner gaskets.

Also, maybe a leaky PCV valve? Try plugging that one also.

I'll have to check the plenum. Didn't think about that when I replaced the boots. Doh! It wouldn't surprise me with this car if it was rusted.

Already checked the pcv valve.

Even if there was a vacuum leak on the plenum, would that account for the loss of power?
I drove my ghia for the first time in about 5 days today, and I'd forgotten how nice it is not to have to approach redline at every shift just to keep up with traffic!

[dlee6204]

Have you checked to make sure your throttle body is closing all the way? Could be a weak return spring or a dirty throttle body.

[era vulgaris]

Have you checked to make sure your throttle body is closing all the way? Could be a weak return spring or a dirty throttle body.

Yup, I checked that when I replaced the throttle body gasket.

I know from my experience with carbs that throttle shaft bushings can wear and cause vacuum leaks. Is that possible with the FI throttle body?

[r_towle]

have you removed and inspected every fuel injector rubber seal and made sure they are present and properly seated?

Rich

[bulitt]

Try using a propane torch (not lit) and move the gas around all the hoses, manifolds, etc. You may get an increase in idle speed if you have a leak. Don't blow yerself up!

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/blowup.gif)

[era vulgaris]

have you removed and inspected every fuel injector rubber seal and made sure they are present and properly seated?

Rich

Yeah I've replaced ever fuel injector rubber seal.

Try using a propane torch (not lit) and move the gas around all the hoses, manifolds, etc. You may get an increase in idle speed if you have a leak. Don't blow yerself up!

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/blowup.gif)

I'll have to find someone with a propane torch I can borrow!

[dlee6204]

You can also use a can of starting fluid if you don't have a propane torch.

[76-914]

That 1.7 isn't running right if your power is as described. Have you checked compression, done a leak down test or checked your distributor for correct part # and operation? I should have mentioned this the 1st go around. Disconnect every vacuum hose except the large one going to the MPS. Your idle should drop at that point. If it did then reconnect each hose, one at a time, until it rises again and presto you have it. If disconnecting those didn't lower the idle check your injector seals, throttle shaft, oil filler neck gasket and timing again. I really want to see you get this car to the state you thought it was in when purchased. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[era vulgaris]

That 1.7 isn't running right if your power is as described. Have you checked compression, done a leak down test or checked your distributor for correct part # and operation? I should have mentioned this the 1st go around. Disconnect every vacuum hose except the large one going to the MPS. Your idle should drop at that point. If it did then reconnect each hose, one at a time, until it rises again and presto you have it. If disconnecting those didn't lower the idle check your injector seals, throttle shaft, oil filler neck gasket and timing again. I really want to see you get this car to the state you thought it was in when purchased. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Thanks, man! I'd love to see it in the state it was supposed to be in too! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

In regards to that, on a side note...my Dad, who is 70 now and retired, worked as a professional mechanic in his 20's for Mercury and Oldsmobile. When he saw the paint on this car, his first words were, "that is the shittiest, cheapest paint job I've ever seen!"
Just wanted to add that in regards to dumbass/conman Scotty Boy's claim of a $10K paint job.

Anyway...
I haven't done a compression test yet. That's on the to-do list!
Where can I find the distributor number? I did notice that to get it timed properly, that the dizzy is very close to full advance, about 15 degrees or so rotation from full advance.

I'll try the test disconnecting the vacuum hoses and see what happens.