to do list, done list, and a few questions Options

[dlee6204]

Are you sure you timed it correctly? There are often multiple marks on a fan and it's all too easy to get them mixed up sometimes.

[era vulgaris]

Are you sure you timed it correctly? There are often multiple marks on a fan and it's all too easy to get them mixed up sometimes.

It's 27 degrees at 3500 rpm, right?
I thought maybe I'd gone too far too, but if I retard it at all the car literally has no power. Mopeds would be able to beat me off the line.

When I disconnect the vacuum hoses for that test, do I plug the ports or leave them open?

[76-914]

plug 'em.

EDIT: FWIW, this is how it went down for my '76. I was at the point you are and my idle control knob had no effect. After replacing every hose, AAR and God knows what else I discovered one of my new injector seals was leaking. It seemed that those could not leak but one did. I had inserted the injector off angle. Never did pick it up using carb cleaner or butane. Should have but it did not. Once you nail it the idle control function should work unless the MPS or ECU bit the dust.

[era vulgaris]

Made progress! The hose test uncovered that when the pcv valve is connected to the plenum, the idle increases. With the pcv valve disconnected and the plenum port plugged, the warm idle falls to ~500 rpm. Which means I can open the bleed screw to get it to 850.

I had tested my pcv valve a couple months back to make sure it was closing all the way. I don't know if there's an official way to test it, but I removed it, filled it with water, and none of it leaked out. So I figured it was closing.

So the issue is either the pcv valve or the hose from the pcv valve to the plenum, which is only a few months old, so I doubt it's the hose. Is there a better way to test the pcv valve?

Seems like a pretty difficult part to find for sale. Are these guys any good?
http://www.oeporscheparts.com/OEMParts/por.../022115542.html
Much better than the $35 that AA is charging.

[bulitt]

Check the PCV hoses for cracks/leaks before you trash the valve.
Should be a vaccum drawn on the crankcase so possibly there is another leak in the loop like valve cover gaskets.
PCV could be drawing air through such a leak instead of evacuating the crankcase.

[76-914]

Your on the trail now. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)

[r_towle]

Is the PVC valve supposed to connect to the plenum?

I believe it's supposed to connect to the air cleaner.

[era vulgaris]

Check the PCV hoses for cracks/leaks before you trash the valve.
Should be a vaccum drawn on the crankcase so possibly there is another leak in the loop like valve cover gaskets.
PCV could be drawing air through such a leak instead of evacuating the crankcase.

I inspected the hose quite thoroughly, and couldn't find any cracks. All of my vacuum hoses are less than 6 months old, but I'll inspect them again. The valve cover gaskets are new as well. I'm gonna have to get a torch like you said and see if I can trace where the leak is.

Your on the trail now. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)

Thanks to your advice! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

Is the PVC valve supposed to connect to the plenum?

I believe it's supposed to connect to the air cleaner.

From what I gather it only connects to the air cleaner on '75 and '76 cars. Earlier cars it connects to the plenum.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...t&id=424473

[era vulgaris]

Check the PCV hoses for cracks/leaks before you trash the valve.
Should be a vaccum drawn on the crankcase so possibly there is another leak in the loop like valve cover gaskets.
PCV could be drawing air through such a leak instead of evacuating the crankcase.

Would a pushrod tube seal be a cause of a vacuum leak?
I've got an occasional drip coming from the the #4 exhaust pushrod tube at the head.

[era vulgaris]

Made a HUGE discovery today!

I finally got around to confirming that I'd fixed my AAR by hooking it up to my bench DC supply and making sure it closes all the way, which it does. As I was re-installing it, I had my entire torso in the engine bay looking for the wire it plugs into, and I noticed the screw on the dizzy closest to the firewall that holds the vac-advance canister in place was missing! The vac canister was basically hanging out of the dizzy, and I never saw it before because it was on the firewall side, where you can't really see unless most of your body is in the engine bay.

I found a screw that fit, tightened it down, and...HOLY SHIT! This car has loads of power! It slays my Ghia. And the throttle response is instantaneous now! If a 1.7 feels like this, I can't imagine what a 2.0 feels like! I drove around for an hour and a half today giggling like an idiot, driving as fast as possible!

And the other good news is that it seems to have fixed my high idle! I've got it trimmed to 900rpm, with everything plumbed correctly, and the air bleed screw slightly open. I guess the canister was holding the advance in place or something, keeping the idle up. Dipshit Scotty Boy must've sold it to me like this, because the car never drove right from the day I got it. But I knew I'd get this car back into shape!!!

Maybe I'll sell my Ghia and get this rust fixed......... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[mepstein]

Way to hang in there and make things right. My son will be going to school in NC this fall so maybe we'll meet up some day.

[bulitt]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

[dlee6204]

Glad you got it fixed!

[era vulgaris]

Thanks to all you guys for all the help and insights! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) I'm sure it won't be too long before I've got more questions about this car. But for now, time to do some driving!

Mepstein, I'm a stone's throw from the PNC arena in Raleigh. If you're ever in the area I'd be happy to show off this rust bucket! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)