Early strut ball joint retainer bolt sheared - options?, Bolt options or new strut? Options

[IanS]

While disassembling the passenger side suspension on my '71 the tapered bolt that secures the ball joint in the strut bottom sheared off. I was able to drill out the rest of the hardened bolt but the threads are a little damaged and I'm not sure what my best option is to proceed.

My understanding is that the newer struts would require matching calipers and rotors from later model is that right? I have access to a newer set but they are not nearly as nice condition as my '71, stuck bolt notwithstanding.

Should I try to repair the threads in the current strut and just put in a new tapered bolt when I reassemble? I would hope I could just secure it with a nut on the threaded end to minimize potential issues.

What do you guys think?

[bdstone914]

You cant use the taper bolt in a pinch bolt strut. You could use a Heli coil or insert to repair the strut or use a through bolt and nyloc nut.

Yes switching to the taper pin later strut will require a different caliper, rotor, hard brake line and flexible brake line. Or replace the damages strut with a used one. I might have one.

Yes I have an early passenger strut. You can have it for $25 plus shipping.


Bruce

[IanS]

Has anyone put in a different bolt or refreshed the threads in their early struts?
By tapered bolt I mean the one from the early models that is round but has a thicker section and a thinner section, not the v-shaped edge of the later models. This is what you're calling a pinch bolt?

To me if the bolt's function is just to fit in the round notch of the early ball joint then a through bolt with lock nut would work, but it's a pretty critical area to be farting around with if no one has experience with the method.

[bdstone914]

Has anyone put in a different bolt or refreshed the threads in their early struts?
By tapered bolt I mean the one from the early models that is round but has a thicker section and a thinner section, not the v-shaped edge of the later models. This is what you're calling a pinch bolt?

To me if the bolt's function is just to fit in the round notch of the early ball joint then a through bolt with lock nut would work, but it's a pretty critical area to be farting around with if no one has experience with the method.

The diameter of the bolt matches the curved cut out shape in the ball joint. It is a pinch bolt that compresses the bottom of the strut. See the split? That is pinched when the bolt is tightened.
Why not buy the one I have for $25 and be done with it?

[mskala]

Has anyone put in a different bolt or refreshed the threads in their early struts?
By tapered bolt I mean the one from the early models that is round but has a thicker section and a thinner section, not the v-shaped edge of the later models. This is what you're calling a pinch bolt?

To me if the bolt's function is just to fit in the round notch of the early ball joint then a through bolt with lock nut would work, but it's a pretty critical area to be farting around with if no one has experience with the method.

If your bolt has different sections that is not the right bolt.

It is a normal bolt, but 10.9 rated. M10x30mm. I have a box of them if you get
the threads cleaned up and you need any.

[luskesq]

If I had the problem, I'd take Bruce up on his offer. His prices are fair, ships quickly. No affiliation but I have bought from Bruce in the past.

Keith

[IanS]

Thanks for the responses. I didn't realize the bolt was a normal-style bolt. The one that didn't shear looked like it had two different diameters but it's been a while.
Mark S thanks for the info on the bolts I will look locally and see if I can find some.
Bruce I will PM you on the strut
Thanks!