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> Improved shifting for side shifters, bolt on? Maybe., Experimenting tonight.
boxsterfan
post Apr 18 2014, 09:41 AM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Apr 17 2014, 09:26 PM) *

Alright, got the trans in last night/this morning. Drove it this evening in some areas that required a lot of shifting. I was expecting more. The shifter I have is very loose and was the instigator for me trying something new. With my enhancement, it shifts like a normal 914 with only slight improvement.

So, I have a Rennshifter somewhere (either at Scotts or in my boxes) and will try it with that, and with a short shift kit if I can get one, and with a rebuilt stocker. I think the best bang for the buck for the cheap-just-just-want-a-little-better club would be short shift and this shifter comb treatment. I need to drive a few stock ones and have people drive mine to get some more feedback.


I'll assume you have updated firewall bushings? Rebuilt/newer stock shifter up in the cabin?

Keeping fingers crossed for a great solution for a CSOB like me. :-)
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Dr Evil
post Apr 20 2014, 10:41 PM
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About 1000mi tested. Adjustment was not spot on, but the shifting was actually pretty great. I need to field test this in a few cars to see if I get agreement. Also, I got another stick shift and intend to modify it to work better with the new setup.
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HalfMoon
post May 29 2014, 10:57 PM
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Hey Dr!
Did you make anymore progress with this mod?
Anxiously awaiting the field tests :-)
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Dr Evil
post May 30 2014, 09:23 AM
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Sorry, Dave. I have been super busy. I did figure out that one problem I was having has an easy solution that actually further improves things. I had been having trouble getting into 1st while stopped. Embarrassing and will need to replace the 1st parts before this ships to its new owner (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Well, the problem is that I can move the stick far left and right, like normal, but with my enhancements this much motion is not necessary. Simple, I will put it into 1st, measure the gap between the the shift ball month and the housing, and install a washer/shim of the right thickness. Now pattern is smaller. Probably can do this for 4-5, too, but they did not have a problem as when car is moving the shifter is guided into position easier.

Also, I have finally received my short shift kit. Took a month after ordering from pelican....sheesh. I look forward to evaluating this.

Another upgrade I am working on requires me to get another internal tunnel shift rod to be sacrificed (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) Have not had time to search.

I am considering ways I can just make these and ship them, but they are so precise that any rotation on your internal shift rods, which would normally be well tolerated, would lead to binding and aggravation. If people are not interested in pulling their stack to adjust, or have me adjust, I could easily write instructions on how to remove material from the comb depending on what issue you are having.

This will be available! I am just interested in getting it as awesome as I can before I get them out to the people. Probably another 6mo out. Lots going on here at home (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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HalfMoon
post May 30 2014, 11:06 PM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ May 30 2014, 11:23 AM) *

Sorry, Dave. I have been super busy. I did figure out that one problem I was having has an easy solution that actually further improves things. I had been having trouble getting into 1st while stopped. Embarrassing and will need to replace the 1st parts before this ships to its new owner (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Well, the problem is that I can move the stick far left and right, like normal, but with my enhancements this much motion is not necessary. Simple, I will put it into 1st, measure the gap between the the shift ball month and the housing, and install a washer/shim of the right thickness. Now pattern is smaller. Probably can do this for 4-5, too, but they did not have a problem as when car is moving the shifter is guided into position easier.

Also, I have finally received my short shift kit. Took a month after ordering from pelican....sheesh. I look forward to evaluating this.

Another upgrade I am working on requires me to get another internal tunnel shift rod to be sacrificed (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) Have not had time to search.

I am considering ways I can just make these and ship them, but they are so precise that any rotation on your internal shift rods, which would normally be well tolerated, would lead to binding and aggravation. If people are not interested in pulling their stack to adjust, or have me adjust, I could easily write instructions on how to remove material from the comb depending on what issue you are having.

This will be available! I am just interested in getting it as awesome as I can before I get them out to the people. Probably another 6mo out. Lots going on here at home (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)


I'm sure it'll be awesome when all the kinks are worked out. You just know I'm in line fer one brudda (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)
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Dr Evil
post Sep 6 2014, 05:22 PM
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OK, I have some great news! Unfortunately my 2006 mini cooper S died a most horrible death due to oil pump failure (my primary diagnosis) which has rendered the engine no good. This has prompted me to get the 914 street legal (inspected) as I need a car sometimes. So, while I was chasing down a speedo issue which turned out to be the wrong angle drive on the tranz, I changed the speedo cable and decided to install the short shift kit. I already love the short shift kit and would fully recommend such as an upgrade that is bolt on, but coupled with the rebuilt tranz and my little modification the shifting is so good it is freaky! I need to find another 914 driver local, with RUNNING car experience that could drive it and give an independent observation.

I still need to put a shim of yet undetermined thickness on the part of the rod that is on the outside of the shift console. This will protect against missing first due to over extension when moving stick to the left. JMalone is gonna be one happy SOB if he puts this in with a short shifter. IF not, he will still be really happy, but WOW.

I need to mount my phone above the shifter and take a vid. It feels as good as a cable shifter and almost gated feel as well.
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HalfMoon
post Sep 6 2014, 07:46 PM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Sep 6 2014, 07:22 PM) *

OK, I have some great news! Unfortunately my 2006 mini cooper S died a most horrible death due to oil pump failure (my primary diagnosis) which has rendered the engine no good. This has prompted me to get the 914 street legal (inspected) as I need a car sometimes. So, while I was chasing down a speedo issue which turned out to be the wrong angle drive on the tranz, I changed the speedo cable and decided to install the short shift kit. I already love the short shift kit and would fully recommend such as an upgrade that is bolt on, but coupled with the rebuilt tranz and my little modification the shifting is so good it is freaky! I need to find another 914 driver local, with RUNNING car experience that could drive it and give an independent observation.

I still need to put a shim of yet undetermined thickness on the part of the rod that is on the outside of the shift console. This will protect against missing first due to over extension when moving stick to the left. JMalone is gonna be one happy SOB if he puts this in with a short shifter. IF not, he will still be really happy, but WOW.

I need to mount my phone above the shifter and take a vid. It feels as good as a cable shifter and almost gated feel as well.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Guess I wouldn't have to worry about shimming for first gear, eh?
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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r_towle
post Sep 6 2014, 07:53 PM
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Mount a camera......mounting the phone sounds like it might suck....
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Dr Evil
post Sep 6 2014, 08:48 PM
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Sure, as soon as you buy one for me (IMG:style_emoticons/default/jerkit.gif)
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gereed75
post Sep 6 2014, 09:43 PM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Sep 6 2014, 10:48 PM) *

Sure, as soon as you buy one for me (IMG:style_emoticons/default/jerkit.gif)

Doc, You still in Cannonsburg?? I just got the six on the road and I can bring it by for a shift comparo. Has a side shift with Tangerine tunnel bushing.
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colingreene
post Sep 6 2014, 10:14 PM
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Doc Send me a PM about your mini, I can probably help.
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stugray
post Sep 7 2014, 10:37 AM
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Too bad you dont have a rennshifter to try it with.

It has adjustments for the side-side and fore-aft stops.
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Dr Evil
post Sep 7 2014, 11:16 AM
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gereed75, hell yes!

Collin, I will PM you shortly. Thanks!

Stu, I dont, eh? I do in fact have a Rennshifter. I wanted to see if I can improve things simply so the iteration of experimentation is: Stock, short shift, Renn. I need to ship the shifter console as I want this to drop in and run with out any dicking around needed from the new owner (jmalone). Simple process, jack up while in 1st, measure the gap in between the outer coupler and he housing, remove coupler and install shim. Easy peasy.
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Eric_Shea
post Sep 7 2014, 11:56 AM
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My teener shifts notchy like a Ferrari. Biggest and best improvement over stock I've "ever" experienced in any 901/911/915 based system -- 914 or 911. Meaning, it actually shifts better than my direct rod 911.

Rennshift Level III Linkage Kit on a side shift console is the secret. What's the catch? James no longer makes them. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Good news? Chris Foley stepped up and offers a similar system. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)

http://www.tangerineracing.com/transmission.htm

***Make sure you get the spherical firewall bushing as well (just to the right of the linkage kit on their page).***

I wanted to retain my hand throttle and a vintage look in the cockpit so I installed a simple Weltmesiter short shift console under the felt carpet with a stock shifter and knob on top.

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I always felt that the linkage below was a "huge" issue with the slop, even on a later side shifter. For me, this has been proven with this set-up. If you're unhappy with your shifting, I would suggest that the $4-500 you would spend on the Tangerine linkage kit will earn you dividends for years to come.

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If you're not limited with "vintage" looks and are racing/autocrossing your car regularly, the Rennshifter is an amazing console. By far the best on the market. I have a feeling we'll be installing one of Chris's linkage kits in Mike's car (that has the Rennshifter) soon. I'll report back.
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Dr Evil
post Sep 7 2014, 12:20 PM
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Interesting. I wonder if that set up would benefit from my treatment. Having never driven a Ferrari, I am gonna have to rely on your description (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

My goal is to satisfy my need to tinker with possibly offering a fairly inexpensive solution for sloppy, stick-in-bucket, shifting.

Eric, you mention an interesting contrast that I can address. The direct rod 911 will never be all that great. The problem is in the box itself. I may mess with this in the future, but the best I can conceive of for an easy fix would only offer tighter fore and aft with retaining the sloppy side to side when in gear (no gated feel at all).

However, I am planning on trying another experiment once I move the lab. An interesting fact about the 914 shifters is how they evolved. The original tail shift had a ball in cup in the center tunnel. This made for a nice fulcrum right at the stick that could effect precise rotation of the tunnel shift rod. Not a bad design, actually. The problem lies in the end and inside the box. There is so much inherent slop once the rod gets connected to the box that it shifts like crap even when in good repair. The shifter mechanism is almost identical to the 911, but with one extra spot for even more slop. I will mess with this in the future, but have low expectations.

Fast forward to 1973 and the introduction of the side shifter. The part at the box was very good and I can easily address the short comings at this point. There is one contact point inside the box rather than 4 sloppy, non-bushed ones. The irony is that they changed the coupler at the stick shift to a clevis. Basically the revers of the tails shift; now good in back, meh in front. The reason I say that clevis is not all that great/precise is that to enact rotation of the internal shift rod the clevis moves the whole inner shift rod side to side. No pivot near the place of action. Now the pivot has been moved a few feet away at the firewall bushing. Inherent slop again.

I have been thinking of a way to put the pivot point close to the stick again. I could just make a rod that adapts the old style shifter to the new style tunnel rod and shift assembly, but then you would have a reversed pattern with left movement actually being toward 4-5 and visa versa. Been too busy to really do much thinking on this. On the original early cars the rotation of the shaft was reversed at the firewall via use of the pivot bolt/coupler to the external rod that hooks to the transmission. Not likely interested in back dating that much just to mess with the shifting. At that point I see no value and do not project any improvement over what is already out there.

So far, the little change I have made, plus a short shift kit, is a pretty cheap and easy solution with a big improvement for those who cant/dont want to shell out the $$ for one of the other systems. I would love to be able to do a head to head with people evaluating all the systems. I would just want to see where my improvement would fit in. So far, I have only driven cars with short shift, renn, and stock.

I am thinking that, as mentioned in a previous post, Renn + this little improvement may = shifting nirvana. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Interestingly enough, my enhancement could be done to Chris's kit and might add further improvement. This is hypothesis, though. Chris is amply qualified to modify the shifter comb as I have done as he is a professional welder (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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gereed75
post Sep 7 2014, 08:38 PM
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Doc, I have another method in mind that would achieve the same thing that Chris does with all "off the shelf" hardware. I bought the needed parts (about $20.00) but have not put it all together yet.

Drop me a line at gereed75@yahoo.com. Lets get together. I live about 20 minutes away. I'll bring my car over and and we can talk enhanced shifting. I think my wife wants to come along...... yea right (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)
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EdwardBlume
post Sep 7 2014, 09:26 PM
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I had the full Renn to Renn set up on my old race car and it was a short and positive as you could get. No complaints except the rear part popped off during an autcross and the tip was 30% gone by the time I got back to the trailer...
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Dr Evil
post Sep 7 2014, 09:28 PM
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Indeed, Rob, if I can not beat the performance and price point of a Rennshifter, which is arguably the best and easiest to install (not having used Chris's system), then I will be doing this for my own amusement only (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

gereed75, I sent you a PM, Check them (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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gereed75
post Sep 7 2014, 10:03 PM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Sep 7 2014, 11:28 PM) *

Indeed, Rob, if I can not beat the performance and price point of a Rennshifter, which is arguably the best and easiest to install (not having used Chris's system), then I will be doing this for my own amusement only (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

gereed75, I sent you a PM, Check them (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

PM and e-mail back.
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maf914
post Sep 8 2014, 07:06 AM
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At the base of the gear shift lever in the cockpit there is a spacer sleeve (item 10 per the attached PET page), also called a bushing (per the Haynes manual Fig 5.27, page 89). I have never seen this listed by the usual parts sources and have never replaced mine. Is this a wear item and should it be replaced? Is it metal or plastic? When I did a shift linkage bushing restoration in the past I just replaced all of the various plastic bushings from the fire wall back to the tranny console. The gear shift lever bolted connection to the clevis in the front shift rod seemed very firm with no noticeable slop. The bushing replacement on my car was a major improvement, I think primarily because the two bushing in the shift rod coupling were literally disintegrating and the rear cup bushing in the shift rod head was cracked and worn.

Should the gear shift lever bushing be replaced and is it available?


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