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> Installing a new rear main seal, prep using grease, motor oil or ...?
Gint
post May 1 2014, 08:49 PM
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I'm installing a new RMS in a 2.0 4 banger. The last one I did leaked when I was finished anyway. I always prep the seal surface with grease or oil or something. What would those that have loads of experience use on the seal surface? I vaguely recall hearing about using ATF, but I don't know if that's the best idea or not. Thought I'd ask the gang what you thought.

Also, I want to clean up the flywheel surface where it contacts the seal. What's should I use t polish it up a little bit without doing any damage to the surface?

Gracias!
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r_towle
post May 1 2014, 09:07 PM
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I use motor oil on the inside and outside of the seal...
That is all..just make sure the inner lip of the case has no scratches and chunks removed from previous seal removal...
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McMark
post May 2 2014, 01:12 AM
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I use Loctite 565. Lubricates as it goes in, seals the OD after that. Probably not necessary, but I don't see a downside.

Using the factory tool also helps pull it in smooth and straight. I can send it to you to use if you send it right back. I have a few motors going on that I will need it for.
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Bleyseng
post May 2 2014, 05:31 AM
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Buff the flywheel sealing surface with a cross hatch pattern with 800 grit. I put a little grease on the seals sealing surface before installing the flywheel.
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Gint
post May 2 2014, 05:45 AM
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I used Loctite 565 on the push rod tube seals this round. They went in like buttah. Appreciate the offer Mark, but I want to get this done this weekend and I'd procrastinate getting it back to you. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Thanks all...
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r_towle
post May 2 2014, 06:59 AM
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Use a proper sized piece of PVC pipe and tap it in square...
Or steel pipe...whatever you can find.
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stugray
post May 2 2014, 08:12 AM
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I think the last time I put one in I used the same Kuril that I used for the case halves.

I think that the only worry about using various different liquids is that if it is too lubricated with a non-hardening sealant, that it might squish out and rub on the FW?
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Gint
post May 2 2014, 06:09 PM
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I don't have any problem pulling it or putting back in. I just want to do the best I can to prevent another new seal from leaking.
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TheCabinetmaker
post May 2 2014, 06:15 PM
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The last few I installed were black instead of the usual red. I believe they were sabo I think they were sabo brand. None has leaked yet.
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Bleyseng
post May 3 2014, 04:56 AM
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Yes, finally after 2 attempts to fix my RMS leak in my Westy a Sabo RMS worked. It has a thicker stronger spring inside than the red ones so at operating temp it doesn't leak anymore.
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Gint
post May 3 2014, 05:48 PM
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The new unit I got from Pelican is black. Brand is Ehlring
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Cap'n Krusty
post May 3 2014, 08:03 PM
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I've always oiled the outer surface, as well as the inner. The oil seems to lock the seal in place once it's heat cycled a few times. Very fine sandpaper for the back of the FW, and a NEW o-ring every time. I stretch that with my fingers before installation, and I oil it, too. I knew a T4 VW dealer guy that always packed the seal with grease before pushing it into the case. Seems he had a spring come adrift once, and vowed "never again!". I like the seals that are part black and part brown. They've always worked best for me.

The Cap'n
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Gint
post May 4 2014, 08:29 AM
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Thanks John Slight correction - The new seal is Elring and it is actually black around the outside and red (or possibly brown) on the inside. I have a new o-ring also. Stretch it huh? I'll look into that when I install.
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rick 918-S
post May 4 2014, 09:14 PM
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I have nothing to add here except to say Hi Mike! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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Gint
post May 4 2014, 11:08 PM
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Hi Rick! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)
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sixnotfour
post May 4 2014, 11:20 PM
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I use dow 111 on the seal lip and o-rings.. High Five Mike
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