Rubber windshield seal, Dimensions on what works? Options

['73-914kid]

Well, after not doing a very stellar job installing my windshield in my car after paint ( it's no longer sealed around the top) using butyl tape, I was going to replace it, however, this time I want to use the urethane adhesive, as well as using a new windshield, and removing the aluminum trim. I really like the look of the anodized trim though, so was looking at various sources for getting a windshield seal that has a chrome strip embedded in it, similar to that on early 911's.

Does anyone have a source or know the dimensions of the rubber seal I should purchase? I know Mikey sells one, but I'm really looking for the chrome strip piece.

Any leads, ideas, or dimensions of the ideal seal shape and contour is very much so appreciated.

Also, how difficult is it to remove 7 month old butyl tape? I have horrible visions of lots of black goop, everyhwere....

-Ethan

[dangrouche]

did not do so good, have you read my recent installation?

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=235156

I'm not showing it to make you feel bad. I thought I had pretty good luck for a first timer. So you are going to remove 7-month butyl? My reading of all the threads indicate it would be pretty clean, you may need assistance if you are using the cable method. as you slice the butyl with wire, you or your assistant will need to insert slivers of material as the butyl is cut. Based on the stuff I used, if I needed to change out the glass today, I would be using the same plastic cards that I employed as spacer blocks. I would slice and insert those cards in as I "sawed" on the butyl. It is hopeful you will not crack the glass, but since you are replacing it, it should not matter. My understanding of posts, not in this board, indicates that as you slice fresh butyl, it will "re-connect" just as quick as you slice it. Because of this, you will need to insert some sort of insulator into the seam as it is being cut. I think once the glass is off, a razor should be able to shave the butyl down pretty significantly. thereafter, I would be using lacquer thinner and plenty of rags to wipe the remnants of butyl. You will have to remove all traces of the buty before going to urethane. I have never heard of any trim for the teener that replicates the chrome bead that insets into the weatherstrip. I used to have 1974 tail dragger that had that type of windshield chrome you speak of.

['73-914kid]

I actually think it may have been the result of me rushing the process to get everything back on the road.. The chrome trim never fit all that well, and I may have pushed the windshielf up on accident while setting it in..

I also did not use any FRIT adhesion paint/promoter, which may have caused my issue..

[dangrouche]

I actually think it may have been the result of me rushing the process to get everything back on the road.. The chrome trim never fit all that well, and I may have pushed the windshielf up on accident while setting it in..

I also did not use any FRIT adhesion paint/promoter, which may have caused my issue..

my understanding that you could leave out the FRIT as long as the pinchweld had fresh paint. the FRIT is supposed to be used when you have bare metal exposed. in my case, since I used a grinding disk to grind off the old urethane, the whole pinchweld was bare steel. I also made a major mistake and used the the FRIT that goes with urethane. I used butyl with urethane FRIT. The 3M urethane tube costs about $23 and is supposedly very messy as it oozes and such, but using my spacer block technique should be helpful for the urethane installation.

[Mikey914]

The 911 style that has the chrome insert will not work here as the clearances are not correct. You would need to rebuild the entire windshield frame.
If you like the aluminum look go stock, but replace all the clips that hold it.
you will need the setting blocks. I have new chrome if you need it too.
if you use the rubber profile you'll need to figure out if you want to use the frit.
this is best determined by dry fitting the windshield. Then you can determine if you need to, and how much if an edge you want..
hope this helps