Paint job Options

[partwerks]

My car is on it's second color already, and I would like to change it from the previous owner.

I'm wondering how the body shop goes about painting over existing colors to get it to stick??

[ConeDodger]

Primer. The paint has to be compatible or it will react which might be what you mean by "stick?"

[partwerks]

Primer. The paint has to be compatible or it will react which might be what you mean by "stick?"

How would they determine if it is compatible?

By sticking, I just meant, not chip or flake off because of lack of adhesion?

[scotty b]

quick, cheap and easy ( MAACO ) they would scuff it with a red scotch brite a coat of sealer then color. Better job would be to sand with 320, prime, wet sand the primer with 400-600, then color. after that it gets involved. The sealer/primer separates the old and new paint so there is no reaction.

[green914]

You can always tear it down, and have the old paint removed by media blasting. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

[green914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) this one needs the glass removed, and it will be ready to blast.

[partwerks]

Is everything in the interior all removed as well?

[green914]

Is everything in the interior all removed as well?

The seats are just sitting in the car, everything down to the wiring harness has been removed. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif)

[partwerks]

Maybe it's not as bad as I think on removal of some things, but the dash and what's under it is down right scary, but ultimately would be the best to remove everything down to the bare bones. I would have to see if my mechanic would be interested in stripping it down for a potential blast job to get things in order, just in case I do the LS/Boxster trans conversion.

[rdomeck]

If you don't want to take it that far down you can have it baking soda blasted. The nice thing about baking soda is that it is water soluble. There are steps you must take when it returns to you after the soda blasting. I have done around 10 cars this way. About 4-5 of them were 911's. It is a nice way to go.

If your car has been painted twice already then it's time to remove some of that build up before you add to it.

[partwerks]

Are you saying the baking soda would remove just the last layer?

Can't say at this point, but haven't heard of baking soda blasting, much less anyone in this area who would have it, but I don't know that for a fact. Sandblasting would be more readily available. Would be nice to keep the mechanical, and body side of things in close proximity to one another if I were to do it.

Would be nice to try and do everything except the cab. The only rust spot I have on it is on the passenger sail panel the size of a .50 cent piece.

[worn]

Are you saying the baking soda would remove just the last layer?

Can't say at this point, but haven't heard of baking soda blasting, much less anyone in this area who would have it, but I don't know that for a fact. Sandblasting would be more readily available. Would be nice to keep the mechanical, and body side of things in close proximity to one another if I were to do it.

Would be nice to try and do everything except the cab. The only rust spot I have on it is on the passenger sail panel the size of a .50 cent piece.

I think scotty gave you a good answer. If you want to drive the car, another layer isnt going to hurt anything. You wont get a great paint job, but, and here is the important part, you will get a paint job. If you want a great paint job it is most economical to buy a car with a great paint job in place. Next in line is spend either money or time with car out of commission and tear into the layers. I am doing this and while it is a money saver the car is moving along with all of my spare time at maybe a 4 year project. It isnt just paint but it wont be for anyone once they start.

As a basis for comparison. Paint last week. 1 quart $133. Not reducer, no harder, not including the epoxy basecoat or the sandable high build primer. No just the color not yet applied. I use paint more than some and am figuring on $1500 for painting supplies including body schutz etc. makes maaco sound a bit more realistic - sort of.

[dan_the _body_guy]

Are you saying the baking soda would remove just the last layer?

Can't say at this point, but haven't heard of baking soda blasting, much less anyone in this area who would have it, but I don't know that for a fact. Sandblasting would be more readily available. Would be nice to keep the mechanical, and body side of things in close proximity to one another if I were to do it.

Would be nice to try and do everything except the cab. The only rust spot I have on it is on the passenger sail panel the size of a .50 cent piece.

I think scotty gave you a good answer. If you want to drive the car, another layer isnt going to hurt anything. You wont get a great paint job, but, and here is the important part, you will get a paint job. If you want a great paint job it is most economical to buy a car with a great paint job in place. Next in line is spend either money or time with car out of commission and tear into the layers. I am doing this and while it is a money saver the car is moving along with all of my spare time at maybe a 4 year project. It isnt just paint but it wont be for anyone once they start.

As a basis for comparison. Paint last week. 1 quart $133. Not reducer, no harder, not including the epoxy basecoat or the sandable high build primer. No just the color not yet applied. I use paint more than some and am figuring on $1500 for painting supplies including body schutz etc. makes maaco sound a bit more realistic - sort of.

thats a good starting number for materials and dont forget the sandpaper, tape, masking paper, buffing pad, rubbing compound. but i still wouldnt let maaco paint my car its worth the money for peace of mind knowing it was done correctly

[bembry]

You can always tear it down, and have the old paint removed by media blasting. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

You're blasting that one? It looks pretty clean, and besides--it's the best 914 color out there already.

[914350]

Personaly I would never paint over an old existing paintjob but if you choose to and many people do, a mechanical bond (sanding) is good enough though some might suggest a adhesion promoter also then your primer sealer etc. I strip all exterior paint with paint remover (aircraft paint stipper) and all interior, underside etc. with media blasting. If the exsiting paint has checking (small cracking that looks like dry desert mud) this will show through the new paint no matter what. If not right away, in a very short time it will. This is just one of many problems that can swell through and show in the new paint job and not to mention the old filler that may be in the car that is ready to give up. Hope this helps. It's a dirty time consuming job to strip to metal but it's well worth it in the end and you can skip the blasting of the interior underside etc.

[rick 918-S]

I would only repaint over the original finish. Factory paint on a 914 is hard as nails. Here's the deal. You spend time=money sanding, repairing dents and dings, masking only to have a reaction two coats into the paint job. The most costly losses in the body shop business are in the paint booth. Why set yourself up for failure. On cars with multi layers I use a heat gun and scraper. A wood chisel works really good. I use an 8" sander and paint stripper in combination.

I'm just finishing a 911 that had 10 paint jobs on it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif)

[Highland]

Has anyone used oven cleaner to strip a respray? I read about a guy who got down to his original paint by using easy off.

[green914]

You can always tear it down, and have the old paint removed by media blasting. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

You're blasting that one? It looks pretty clean, and besides--it's the best 914 color out there already.

Going to keep it the same color. The blasting is more for searching out rust, so it can be removed. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif)

[scotty b]

Has anyone used oven cleaner to strip a respray? I read about a guy who got down to his original paint by using easy off.

that's it. I quit (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[partwerks]

Has anyone used oven cleaner to strip a respray? I read about a guy who got down to his original paint by using easy off.

That would be too easy. (no pun)
Hmmm, I better email E-Z Off to get the particulars...........