Paint job Options

[bembry]

You can always tear it down, and have the old paint removed by media blasting. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

You're blasting that one? It looks pretty clean, and besides--it's the best 914 color out there already.

Going to keep it the same color. The blasting is more for searching out rust, so it can be removed. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif)

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[JRust]

Just do the plastic dip & see what you like. Let it ride for a while & try a different color. Sounds relatively cheap & comes off if you really don't love the color

[rdomeck]

I run a fabrication business and I take in restoration work as filling work. It keeps me in the shop so I am more accessible to my employee's. I do about 3 body restorations a year. Sometime more sometimes less. I have prices that I use as a baseline. I come out ok on these numbers, but I always have more time in than I should because I like to do things correctly.

I have attached an estimate that I wrote last year and the car just showed up to my shop for me to start the repairs. This car is rusted, but is savable. I break down each aspect of the job for all this type of work. I currently have an early 70 BMW CS2800, Early 60's MGA and a late 60's 911. Last year I did a late 50's Jaguar and late 60's 912. Not to mention all of my current projects... A couple of 914's, late 40's Willy's Wagon, 1915 Model T, and a few more I haven't started on.

My point is that body wok takes time... Lot's of time. You can either choose to do the work yourself and save some money or pay someone to do it for you. Lot's of ways to go about doing a body restoration. The right way cost money. Doing it yourself will take a lot of your time....

[saigon71]

Are you saying the baking soda would remove just the last layer?

Can't say at this point, but haven't heard of baking soda blasting, much less anyone in this area who would have it, but I don't know that for a fact. Sandblasting would be more readily available. Would be nice to keep the mechanical, and body side of things in close proximity to one another if I were to do it.

Would be nice to try and do everything except the cab. The only rust spot I have on it is on the passenger sail panel the size of a .50 cent piece.

Man, if you're sure you only have a .50 cent piece of rust on the sail panel, blasting of any type may be overkill, but that depends on what the purpose of the car will be. I'm not sure it is necessary for a regular driver.

Same goes for the paint itself...certainly stripping it to bare metal is the best approach. But I ended up hiring a guy to spray over the factory paint and a respray. I spent some time filling and sanding imperfections out of the last layer of paint, but it turned out very nice for a 9 month daily driver.

Supplies, primer, paint and paying the guy to spray it cost me about $800.

[dan_the _body_guy]

im in the process of doing a "simple repaint" on a customers 75 VW beetle that for all purposes doesnt really need a complete paint job if you look at just the surface. its been stored indoors in a heated building for the past 15 years under a cover and hasnt been out in 10 years. what the surface doesnt show is the bondo that was packed into the rust holes and painted over. i hate surprises a year after i finish a car, its easy to say strip it or dip it but in the end you cant see whats there till you dig in.
you dont really save anything by doing the job twice. my advice would be to look it over really well see exactly what you have to work with. if youre not ready to do it correctly leave it alone, just drive it till you are

[partwerks]

Just want to change the color is all I am after, but didn't know how involved to get, as it has been painted black over the original color of green.

[dan_the _body_guy]

Just want to change the color is all I am after, but didn't know how involved to get, as it has been painted black over the original color of green.

id say scotty was onto something then. the best method would be to sand with 220-320 paper, lay a couple coats of sandable primer then water block with 400-600, seal and paint.
i think most of us are just trying to advise you on the unknowns that are common with body/paint work. i personally prefer restoration jobs but sometimes i do quick resprays. its the painters job to give the info but in the end its the owners choice how its done.

[Evil914]

Are you saying the baking soda would remove just the last layer?

Can't say at this point, but haven't heard of baking soda blasting, much less anyone in this area who would have it, but I don't know that for a fact. Sandblasting would be more readily available. Would be nice to keep the mechanical, and body side of things in close proximity to one another if I were to do it.

Would be nice to try and do everything except the cab. The only rust spot I have on it is on the passenger sail panel the size of a .50 cent piece.

Man, if you're sure you only have a .50 cent piece of rust on the sail panel, blasting of any type may be overkill, but that depends on what the purpose of the car will be. I'm not sure it is necessary for a regular driver.

Same goes for the paint itself...certainly stripping it to bare metal is the best approach. But I ended up hiring a guy to spray over the factory paint and a respray. I spent some time filling and sanding imperfections out of the last layer of paint, but it turned out very nice for a 9 month daily driver.

Supplies, primer, paint and paying the guy to spray it cost me about $800.

I bought a small blaster that looks and works kinda like a gravity feed paint gun.Gets those crusty spots clean fast.Less than $30.Works great just make sure you don't blow any moisture out of your airlines.wet sand won't come out.