Firewall shift linkage bushing, Where can Bronze Bushing be purchased Options

[EPK]

Is there any point to going to a bronze fire wall bushing or is a replacement plastic one as good. Is anyone using a bronze bushing, if so how does it work and finally if they are good who sells them (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) .

[Mueller]

Bronze has a few problems for that application:

¤ It cannot be made to "snap" fit into the existing hole.

¤ A bracket or holder would be needed to keep the bronze bushing attached to the firewall

¤ You could screw or use a rivet, but that seems to be a pain as well.

¤ The fit between the rod and the bushing will have to be near exact since if too tight, the rod won't fit into the bushing (each bushing would have to be reamed to size for the rod)

¤ The bronze bushing will transmit more noise into the car...the plastic acts as an insulator

Just my humble opinion (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[maf914]

Many months ago, someone posting on the STF - 914 Forum indicated that they were going to begin machining and offering a series of shift bushings, including the fire wall bushing. He discussed a bracket for it as well. I guess that project never got off the ground.

On a related issue, I have one of the bronze bushings from PP for the rear of the side shifter rod. It replaces the plastic snap-in piece and is held in with a C-clip. I've checked the fit and it has significant play, as much as the fairly new plastic bushing I currently have. I have thought about using solder and a propane torch to build up the inner diameter. I thought the solder would make a fair bearing surface if I could get the surface fairly uniform. Plus it's something I might be able to do myself with limited equipment at home. Any suggestions? Has anyone shimmed or snugged-up these bushings in another way? Thanks.

Mike

[Brad Roberts]

Use plastic at the firewall.

Find another rear shift console that isnt worn out. The replacement bronze bushings (or a new plastic one)doesnt do a damn thing if the console "shift rod hole" is worn out. You cant weld to it unless you know a good TIG welder. That piece (as well as any other tranny piece) has been soaked in gear lube making conventional welding almost impossible. As soon as you apply heat.. the oil comes to the top making welding...well.."fun".

Sometimes people have these great idea's for new parts...and they cant prove why we need them. Why not install a round roller bearing at the firewall ??

The biggest problem I find is this: The shift rods are all well worn by now. So.. how do you make a bronze part fit something that will be worn differently on everyones car ?? You cant. Everything would need to replaced.

B

[Bleyseng]

That is the problem I have noticed with the bronze bushing at the rear shift console, its still a sloppy fit. The good part is it hasn't worn out in 6 months of driving like the plastic ones do. For a really tight fit, use the plastic bushing and then zip tie it tighter. That lasts for awhile and gives you really tight shifting. I also knurled the bronze bushing for a tighter fit. I used a punch and smacked a pattern all around it to reduce the size of the hole. The best solution would be to have a kit that included a bushing and a ream so you could resize the shift rod.
Brad, could you get on that?
Geoff

[Brad Roberts]

No thanks. Soon I wont know anyone with a 901 in their car. Now that we have the WEVO 915 setup... everybody I know with a 6cyl street car or race car will end up with a 915..lol


B

[Bleyseng]

Whats the rules for SCCA AXing? I thought you had to run the orginal tranny type.
I was talking to Leeds at the last AX about the Fordahl six car, they are having troubles with the tranny/gear ratios.
Geoff