steering wheel wobble, sleeve or bearing Options

[malcolm2]

I installed my new Meyle key switch last night and that reminded me that I have a steering wheel wobble. The play is up and down, not side to side. check out the video.

Should I buy a sleeve or a bearing for my 75? maybe both?

BTW the new German made $8 switch fires the car right up. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving-girl.gif) It fit very tightly so I assume it will last. The one I took out had "GERMANY" on it. Not sure if it is from the PO or the factory.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oD4V040AZQE

[76-914]

I think you just need to tighten the allen head screws that attach it to the dash. There are 4 underneath.

[Steve]

I have a 75 and used the sleeve to fix mine. Haven't had a problem since. That was 15 years ago.

[malcolm2]

I have a 75 and used the sleeve to fix mine. Haven't had a problem since. That was 15 years ago.

An additional sleeve, something available now, or something original and worn?

#9 is the bearing that is wiggling in the video. Can't find a 75 exp view drawing for the steering section. I'll keep looking. the 72 has the sleeve.

[Dr Evil]

I think you just need to tighten the allen head screws that attach it to the dash. There are 4 underneath.

Up and down are usually these. When the bearing goes, all directions have slop.

[malcolm2]

I think you just need to tighten the allen head screws that attach it to the dash. There are 4 underneath.

Up and down are usually these. When the bearing goes, all directions have slop.

I just checked those four and they are tight. I watched those 4 and wiggled the wheel and they DID NOT move.

[messix]

the column where the bearing is can get wobbled out from hanging on to the wheel getting in and out so the bearing fits loose. I used some aluminum foil to shim the bearing in tight.

[Dr Evil]

the column where the bearing is can get wobbled out from hanging on to the wheel getting in and out so the bearing fits loose. I used some aluminum foil to shim the bearing in tight.

Yup. That is the next culprit. See, if the bearing were loose then the shaft of the wheel would move in all directions. So, a bushing will not fix up and down only. Depending on how bad the collar is worn out, foil can help, and make sure it is a tight fit or you will be right back there messing with it again. Last time I messed with this problem I documented it and posted the pics up. I also gave up and went with another collar.

[malcolm2]

the column where the bearing is can get wobbled out from hanging on to the wheel getting in and out so the bearing fits loose. I used some aluminum foil to shim the bearing in tight.

Yup. That is the next culprit. See, if the bearing were loose then the shaft of the wheel would move in all directions. So, a bushing will not fix up and down only. Depending on how bad the collar is worn out, foil can help, and make sure it is a tight fit or you will be right back there messing with it again. Last time I messed with this problem I documented it and posted the pics up. I also gave up and went with another collar.

So what are you calling the collar? would that be the aluminum piece that the ignition switch and key tumblers fit into? it is held on with one larger allen bolt. The large un numbered piece above?

[Dr Evil]

Yup, that piece. It is cast, the bearing housing part is machined in.

[bigkensteele]

This thread is helpful:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=1672509

but the one thing he doesn't detail is how to remove the old bearing. I just received my new bearing from Pelican yesterday, but I would like some advice on how the old one come out before I go in.

[malcolm2]

This thread is helpful:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=1672509

but the one thing he doesn't detail is how to remove the old bearing. I just received my new bearing from Pelican yesterday, but I would like some advice on how the old one come out before I go in.

Plus it looks like he left the collar assembly on the shaft the whole time. I have had mine out several times, but I have never changed the bearing. I wonder if it is tuff to get out or needs to be pressed in?

[Cap'n Krusty]

Pack a lunch, 'cause that bearing's a b@*%$ to remove. Instead, I use the 928 sleeve to fix the problem. 10-15 bucks, 5 minutes, problem solved. Take a look in there. The bearing has a plastic sleeve built in, and that sleeve deteriorates and comes apart, leaving a gap. Clear the debris with a paper clip, remove the circlip from the shaft, push the sleeve into place using gentle persuasion with a dowel, a punch, or a piece of plastic pipe, and reinstall the circlip. Done!

The Cap'n

[malcolm2]

Pack a lunch, 'cause that bearing's a b@*%$ to remove. Instead, I use the 928 sleeve to fix the problem. 10-15 bucks, 5 minutes, problem solved. Take a look in there. The bearing has a plastic sleeve built in, and that sleeve deteriorates and comes apart, leaving a gap. Clear the debris with a paper clip, remove the circlip from the shaft, push the sleeve into place using gentle persuasion with a dowel, a punch, or a piece of plastic pipe, and reinstall the circlip. Done!

The Cap'n

Some of the posts talked about a mysterious "repair sleeve". this is the 1st post that gave a hit of what the "repair sleeve" actually is. I guess I will start looking.

Thanks Cap'n

Hey, BTW that crank you sold me now has 5000 more miles on it.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)