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> Speed engine drop
1bad914
post Jan 18 2005, 06:04 AM
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I'm pulling a 2.0 out of a trashed 76 914. I have everything disconnected accept the cv bolts, these are the toughest I've ever tried, I've used every trick I know and still can't get one to budge. The car is litterally folding in half, any ideas for dropping the motor with out have to loosen the cv bolts, if I can get it out I can get some leverage and get them out. The car is so bad that when I reef on the bolts the whole car flexes. I thought about cutiing the rear end of the car off and flipping it over, I even tried to cut the axle, no go! Those things are hard!!!!! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/sawzall-smiley.gif) Also, what is the size of the axle nut?
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ablose58
post Jan 18 2005, 07:08 AM
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30 mm socket for the axle nut, and a carborundum cutoff wheel on a hand grinder will make very short work out of cutting of those stubborn axles,that is if you really want to? Or the old reliable fire wrench (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/blowtorch.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/monkeydance.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/drunk.gif)
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Joe Ricard
post Jan 18 2005, 07:20 AM
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Drop the trailing arms and shocks. Pull the whole sha-bang out at once
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1bad914
post Jan 18 2005, 07:56 AM
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Dropping the whole thing was an idea I thought of to. Kind of fun just cutting chunks of the car off! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/sawzall-smiley.gif) I may also cut the trunk out to give me better access to the cv bolts!
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jim912928
post Jan 18 2005, 10:48 AM
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A selfish question I have for you...every thing in my interior is perfect except for the rear targa bar pad (has 1 big crack in it) and my sunvisors. If you are parting this any chance those are good and willing to part with them?
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michel richard
post Jan 18 2005, 12:07 PM
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Dropping the rear end should be fairly easy. The shock top nuts usually come out easy. The three bolts on the outboard ears of the radius arms will probably break, but that's not a problem since you're throwing the tub away. The big bolt at the inner end of the radius arm may well break too. It's a little harder to get to, and breaking those makes it hard to save the radius arm, but that's not too bad. You can also pop the sway bars fairly easily right at one of the "ball joints" on each side.

It would probably be best to ease the shock tops out of the towers before you start lowering the engine, because they have a tendency to get stuck.

I've never done it that way, but I have taken plenty of rusted cars apart.

Toughest I ever had to use for the cv bolts was to apply heat, then loose nut daily for a couple of days, then heat again then a combination of the 12 point tool and big vise-grips on the bolts.

Have you considered using a grinder to cut the bolts off ?

Just my .02

Michel Richard
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jd74914
post Jan 18 2005, 12:19 PM
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Just cut 'em off. If their on that tight and are that rusted you will probably snap them anyways when you get more leverage. Cutting is faster (I've learned this with my cars) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)
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r_towle
post Jan 18 2005, 08:41 PM
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I had a car just like that, in fact once I got it off the trailer, I had half a car, just the rear end, the rest was outside after it collapsed coming off the trailer (I had to cut it in half because it collapsed coming off the trailer)

I jacked up one side, cut the ears off both sides of the "frame" and did the shock bolts, cut the motor mounts both front and rear (rear was right through the top of the trunk floor, just cut the whole section out.

Then my son and I lifted the "car" off the motor which was on the floor.

Not a big deal really, kinda a fun way of doing it!!!

Rich
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