License plate and dash lights on with key on, but lheadlight switch in the off position Options

[HalfMoon]

I started my car tonight and noticed despite the headlight switch being fully in the off position, my dash lights are on and my license plate light is .
Odd. Never saw that before. Headlight switch I imagine....
Thoughts?
David
Addedum-and saw what I thought was a wisp of smoke come from under my dash at the windshield....perhaps my imagination?

[Tom]

"0" ohms from the load side of the fuse to ground is bad. Since you mentioned about losing the wipers, I would look at that circuit. I don't remember if the connections on the load side of fuse #8 have multiple spade terminals or not. If so, remove one at a time and see if the resistance at fuse #8 increases. Don't worry about the powered side of fuse #8, just the load side that read "0" ohms. If in fact the load side has multiple terminals and one reads "0" ohms to ground, then try to identify where that wire goes to as it is causing a direct short to ground. That is why the larger fuse popped instantly. The lower the resistance, the greater the current. So that is too little resistance. If you have the time and desire, try searching for " Basic DC circuits". It will help you understand what you need to know to fix things on the car that involve electricity.
Tom

[HalfMoon]

"0" ohms from the load side of the fuse to ground is bad. Since you mentioned about losing the wipers, I would look at that circuit. I don't remember if the connections on the load side of fuse #8 have multiple spade terminals or not. If so, remove one at a time and see if the resistance at fuse #8 increases. Don't worry about the powered side of fuse #8, just the load side that read "0" ohms. If in fact the load side has multiple terminals and one reads "0" ohms to ground, then try to identify where that wire goes to as it is causing a direct short to ground. That is why the larger fuse popped instantly. The lower the resistance, the greater the current. So that is too little resistance. If you have the time and desire, try searching for " Basic DC circuits". It will help you understand what you need to know to fix things on the car that involve electricity.
Tom

Hey Tom,
I think I'm being a knob mebbe and screwing up terminology. When we say load side and powered side I think I'm misunderstanding so I'm going to use idiot terminology....
The side I referred to as the "powered side" and had a ohm reading of 1 (with the fuse out and the battery unhooked) lit up a test light when I had the fuse out and the battery hooked up, ignition key on.
The other side (which did NOT light up a test light when the fuse was out and the battery was hooked up, ignition key on) had a value of 0 ohm once the battery was unhooked. I think your reffering to this as the "load" side.
Load side and powered side are different?
Powered side lights up a test light=1 ohm (tested with battery unhooked)
Load side does not light up a test light=0 ohm (tested with battery unhooked)
Learning curve....
David
Note-I think I need to re-perform the tests with the battery unhooked and the ignition key on?
Addedum-I retested with the ignition key on and off, thinking this being a switched circuit when the battery is hooked up, but it made no difference in the values.