License plate and dash lights on with key on, but lheadlight switch in the off position |
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License plate and dash lights on with key on, but lheadlight switch in the off position |
HalfMoon |
Jun 23 2014, 07:50 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 828 Joined: 13-November 12 From: Shenandoah Junction, WV Member No.: 15,144 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
I started my car tonight and noticed despite the headlight switch being fully in the off position, my dash lights are on and my license plate light is .
Odd. Never saw that before. Headlight switch I imagine.... Thoughts? David Addedum-and saw what I thought was a wisp of smoke come from under my dash at the windshield....perhaps my imagination? |
Tom |
Jul 1 2014, 11:37 AM
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#2
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,139 Joined: 21-August 05 From: Port Orchard, WA 98367 Member No.: 4,626 Region Association: None |
David,
The "load" side of a fuse is the side that feeds what ever electrical device, ie; " the load", that circuit is feeding. The "powered" side is the side that power from a power source is fed to. In your case, the fuse is blowing. This indicates that the load is causing too much current to flow through the fuse, then it blows. So you do not need to take ohm readings on the powered side. Disconnecting the battery when working on electrical circuits is always a good idea. When you do hook the battery back up, don't tighten the bolt on the battery cable. Just push the battery cable back on tight enough to power up the car for testing. Then if something goes terribly wrong and the smoke starts coming out, you don't have to spend extra time untightening that battery cable bolt to remove power. For fuse #8, try to divide the circuits on the load side to see which one is causing the ground. Not saying finding the ground on the load side of fuse #8 will solve all of your problems, but these cars have some weird electrical issues from time to time and it wouldn't surprise me if it did. The circuits you are having issues with do have common connections, so it just may fix your lights issue also. You don't need your key ON when doing these particular tests. Some tests may require that, but in your case with fuse #8 blowing, the key ON is not necessary. Tom |
HalfMoon |
Jul 1 2014, 12:52 PM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 828 Joined: 13-November 12 From: Shenandoah Junction, WV Member No.: 15,144 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
David, The "load" side of a fuse is the side that feeds what ever electrical device, ie; " the load", that circuit is feeding. The "powered" side is the side that power from a power source is fed to. In your case, the fuse is blowing. This indicates that the load is causing too much current to flow through the fuse, then it blows. So you do not need to take ohm readings on the powered side. Disconnecting the battery when working on electrical circuits is always a good idea. When you do hook the battery back up, don't tighten the bolt on the battery cable. Just push the battery cable back on tight enough to power up the car for testing. Then if something goes terribly wrong and the smoke starts coming out, you don't have to spend extra time untightening that battery cable bolt to remove power. For fuse #8, try to divide the circuits on the load side to see which one is causing the ground. Not saying finding the ground on the load side of fuse #8 will solve all of your problems, but these cars have some weird electrical issues from time to time and it wouldn't surprise me if it did. The circuits you are having issues with do have common connections, so it just may fix your lights issue also. You don't need your key ON when doing these particular tests. Some tests may require that, but in your case with fuse #8 blowing, the key ON is not necessary. Tom Tom, Thanks for the clarification. I'm assuming I can check the circuits on the load side by detaching the particular wire from the back of the fuse block, connect my test lead to that wire, then trace the wire to the component detach that wire and connet my other lead to it, then take a reading? Or, is it like how I tested the load side of fuse block 8? Which would mean I would detach the component wire from the back of the fuse block, connect my ohm meter, then merely connect the other lead from my ohm meter to ground and take a reading. Having no real experience, this is all new to me. In the past, I've only used a continuity tester or a test light for simple testing (does it get power, can it get power) Thanks once again for sharing your experience. My hope is that other members with no experience are following this and learning as well :-) D |
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