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cooler |
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#1
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"Very Interesting!" ![]() Group: Members Posts: 32 Joined: 6-December 11 From: British Columbia Member No.: 13,865 Region Association: Canada ![]() |
I am currently repairing rust on my longitudinal/hell hole/jack receiver. There is surface rust in many inaccessible locations, between layers of sheet metal in the longs and spot welded seams and inside surfaces of the longs. I believe this is where the deterioration of our cars starts.
What products are being used to stop and prevent rust in these inaccessible locations? Are they effective? Your comments and advice are appreciated in advance. Thank You |
green914 |
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#2
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,467 Joined: 29-March 11 From: Sacramento, California Member No.: 12,874 Region Association: Northern California ![]() |
Pictures! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)
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Dave_Darling |
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#3
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914 Idiot ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 15,151 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California ![]() ![]() |
Phosphoric acid seems to be the common choice. Naval jelly, Ospho, POR Metal Prep are all trade names for it. I think most of the "rust converters" use it as a working ingredient as well.
--DD |
Mblizzard |
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#4
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,033 Joined: 28-January 13 From: Knoxville Tn Member No.: 15,438 Region Association: South East States ![]() |
As Dave correctly pointed out, those products can effectively deal with rust on surfaces that they can be applied to. But as we all know, in a 914 the rust you can see is just the tip of the ice berg.
The way the metal is sandwiched and layered in spots makes it almost impossible to get at all the rust that might be present. All I could think of was to use one of the products in aerosol form and really saturate the area. I also used a multi direction spray nozzle on a extension tube to treat the longs and other less accessible areas. Not a perfect solution but it was all I could come up with. |
saigon71 |
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#5
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,012 Joined: 1-June 09 From: Dillsburg, PA Member No.: 10,428 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I agree with Mike on the sandwiched metal...not sure what can be done there.
For blind areas (insides of the longs, tunnel, etc.) I would go with a product such as this: http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coa...-nozzle-qt.html I used in in the tunnel of my 914 and between the inner/outer firewall. The flexible extension and multi-directional sprayer worked well to cover everything. I can't speak to it's effectiveness though, as I just applied it last year. Time will tell. |
cooler |
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#6
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"Very Interesting!" ![]() Group: Members Posts: 32 Joined: 6-December 11 From: British Columbia Member No.: 13,865 Region Association: Canada ![]() |
Sorry I should have included pics. here are a couple.
![]() ![]() The rust is not that bad, yet, but I would like to stop it. I'm not going to probe any further there still is a lot metal thickness. I will replace what I have removed and do some further external reinforcement. I once heard of a product that creped into cracks and crevasses by capillary action to kill rust but I can not recall where. Thanks for your response. |
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