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> Forums Worst Welder?
CptTripps
post Jan 20 2005, 08:23 PM
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Take a look at my project today. After I sat back and looked at the completed job, I'm starting to think I have no business welding anything...

I got the job done, and I could dance on the pass-side floor, but does anyone have tips for welding?

I'm using a Lincoln-Electric Pro-Core 100 welder. It's served me well, but I'm not sure I'm using the right settings.

Before
(IMG:http://www.hardman.org/pix/914_pix/IMG_5472.jpg)

After
(IMG:http://www.hardman.org/pix/914_pix/IMG_5485.jpg)

Before
(IMG:http://www.hardman.org/pix/914_pix/IMG_5475.jpg)

After
(IMG:http://www.hardman.org/pix/914_pix/IMG_5486.jpg)
(Forgot to take a pic before I primed it)

I'm using 16ga on the floor, and 18ga on the back firewall. I've got to replace the piece where the seat-belt connects to the long, but that'll have to wait till I can find a drillpress that will work on the 10ga piece I have for there. (Interestingly enough, the long was REAL nice inside...the belt-bolt area was the only part that was hosed.)

Am I as bad as I think?
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TonyAKAVW
post Jan 20 2005, 08:39 PM
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Hey, if its functional, what the hell. Although maybe I'm jsut saying that because my welds look bad too (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif)

I noticed something that you may want to look into while I was welding recently. I live in an apartment and the wiring for the garage seems to be shared with a large floodlight and other garages in our complex. If I try to weld at night, it seems like I don't get enough current to the welder to do a good job. During the day it works great, so check to see that you have a big enough extension cord (if you are using one) and that the outlet is in good shape.

I'm using a MIG welder I'm borrowing from Andrew (phantom914). I started out using flux core with it and then bought a tank of argon/CO2 gas and it works a LOT better (also using mig wire)...

-Tony
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CptTripps
post Jan 20 2005, 08:44 PM
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QUOTE (TonyAKAVW @ Jan 20 2005, 09:39 PM)
I'm using a MIG welder I'm borrowing from Andrew (phantom914). I started out using flux core with it and then bought a tank of argon/CO2 gas and it works a LOT better (also using mig wire)...

I wish I'd bought one that I could upgrade to use regular mig wire. I'm told it is a lot nicer, but I don't know why. Care to explain?

I think I'm going to tear out the back of the drivers-side tomorrow. While I'm in the 'welding mood' I may as well take care of everything I can see...right?
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r_towle
post Jan 20 2005, 08:55 PM
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slow down the wire speed and slow down your hand movement...it should be like a bead of caulking coming out of a tube.

there should be an adjustment inside the cover to change the rate of the wire.

Mine is a knob that applies more pressure for faster and less for slower...

DECAF

Rich
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scotty914
post Jan 20 2005, 08:56 PM
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if you want you could rig your welder to up to work like a mig. run solid wire ( non flux core ) , then get an argon bottle and reg. take a tube from the reg to the tip of the welder, then you just turn on the bottle manually.

you would need to run a higher flow than a true mig, unless to tap the argon tube in to the welder tip ( the one that can be pulled off. you could drill a hole in the tip and solder in a brass tube to hook up to the argon line, you would have a mig that you turn on the gas manually.

and then to get fancy you could tap in to the relay that feeds the wire to hook up a small seloind valve for the gas

also you welding is not bad, try gas one day. i think it is easier, but not near as fast
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CptTripps
post Jan 20 2005, 10:09 PM
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Where do you go to get an argon tank? Argon too for that matter?
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mharrison
post Jan 20 2005, 10:30 PM
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Not to sound like a smartass, but get these at your local welding supply company. Check the phone book for welding supplies. They'll have the tanks and the gas. Chances are, they wouldn't fill tanks that weren't theirs anyway.

And in my book if you're not a professional welder, then you should be proud of what you've accomplished. It is solid and doesn't look bad.

-Matt
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scotty914
post Jan 20 2005, 10:36 PM
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QUOTE (mharrison @ Jan 20 2005, 08:30 PM)
Not to sound like a smartass, but get these at your local welding supply company. Check the phone book for welding supplies. They'll have the tanks and the gas. Chances are, they wouldn't fill tanks that weren't theirs anyway.

And in my book if you're not a professional welder, then you should be proud of what you've accomplished. It is solid and doesn't look bad.

-Matt

or harbour frieght

and every welding supply place i have ever been to will fill any tank as long as the DOT date is good, but not many have the ablitiy to fill on site
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IronHillRestorations
post Jan 20 2005, 10:46 PM
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(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/agree.gif) with Matt

Rusty metal isn't easy to weld to. I've seen lots worse (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)

A gas kit should be available for your welder. It's a worthwhile investment. Use CO2/Argon mix, not straight argon.

I'm not familiar with the flux cored stuff, but with the gas kit you can run .023 wire, and it's less likely to burn through.

I wouldn't make beads any longer than 1" or you'll be warping the metal alot.

Another thing, practice alot before touching the thing to your car. Although, you've done decent so far. Obviously not a concours job, but you are saving it to get back on the road, which is cool.

Replacement floorpans aren't that expensive, for what you get. I'd have gone with the real deal, which would have made your job a little easier too, and a better finished product. Just my .02 though.
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Trekkor
post Jan 20 2005, 11:01 PM
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The argon/C02 gas is expensive compared to straight CO2. Doesn't last as long either.

I have two gas cylinders. One bi-mix and one CO2.

The CO2 works very well. Burns a little hotter.
Costs a little less than bi-mix but lasts up to four times as long.

When you switch to solid wire you also switch the polarity of the machine.

If your machine doesn't have a mig kit upgrade, i would not try to rig up a home made kit. Too scary for me.
( insert smiley with skeleton showing, due to fatal shock )

Be careful. looks good.

KT
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SirAndy
post Jan 20 2005, 11:55 PM
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QUOTE (CptTripps @ Jan 20 2005, 06:23 PM)
After I sat back and looked at the completed job, I'm starting to think I have no business welding anything...

naaa, we all started out just like that. thank god for grinding wheels!

welding, just like any other skill, takes practice to be perfected.
don't be discouraged by the initial results. practice on some scrap metal.
get some good books on the topic.
take welding classes ...

you'll be a pro in no time!
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/welder.gif) Andy
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SpecialK
post Jan 21 2005, 01:39 AM
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Yep, what they said.....practice on some scrap, then beat the sh*t out of it with a hammer (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smash.gif) to see how well it held (kind of fun too!).

I too have to make the "10 ga seatbelt mount" repair (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/mad.gif) , so I thought I'd see how well the 10ga (doubler) would weld to the 18ga repair patch.......man was I suprised! I mounted a scrap piece of 10ga in the vise, clamped a piece of the 18ga with holes for rosette welds (everything vertical, like it would be in the car), and proceeded to make the prettiest welds I ever made (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wub.gif) . Let it cool awhile and tapped it with a hammer.....ping (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ohmy.gif) ...popped right off! Tried bigger holes in the 18ga, same results (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/sad.gif) . Fudged with settings, grinding the metal better.......still sucked. I eventually found that drilling a divot in the 10ga (3/16") about halfway through the material, and going with a 1/4" hole in the 18ga did the trick. I used a high power setting (amp), a low feed speed, and made an outward spiral starting in the center of the divot.............never got it to break loose with the hammer before it started tearing the metal. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/welder.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smilie_pokal.gif)

Oh yeah, flux core POS Century 80 welder.
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Andyrew
post Jan 21 2005, 01:48 AM
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I did Prettty bad when I started...

Now im not bad. Did my seat rail mount (woops, need to take some pics of that for the racing seat people...) recently and was very successful.

Heres a thread I did when I started to weld... As you can see, it wasnt very pretty...

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...hl=welding&st=0

Some cool pics in it though..
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CptTripps
post Jan 21 2005, 07:06 AM
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Thanks for the encouragement. I bought the welder to build my fence this summer. The extent of my welding there was just tacks. This is the first I've had to do anything 'fancy'.

(IMG:http://www.hardman.org/pix/fencing/fencing-Images/7.jpg)

After seeing other peoples work I guess I'm not all that far off. I'm not going for concours, so if it's structuraly sound, I think I'll be in good shape.

The floorpans would have been a better idea. If I had more confidence in my welding abilities, I'd have gone that route. I didn't want to ruin them. Maybe I 'll do that next winter, along with the other stuff I'm already thinking of for the interior.

QUOTE
If your machine doesn't have a mig kit upgrade, i would not try to rig up a home made kit. Too scary for me.


I agree. I'll call Lowes today and see if they have one.

BTW: I JUST discovered Harbor Freight....that place is amazing.
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DJsRepS
post Jan 21 2005, 07:44 AM
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Borrow or rent a mig using Argon gas then sell yours. Ps you can use brass braising rod's to fill in the small welding holes. Grind it all and use self etching primer as base coat.
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URY914
post Jan 21 2005, 09:51 AM
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One thing that really helped me was getting your face really down into the weld area so you can see the weld puddle forming on the metal. I have to weld without my glasses so I can see better up close.

And before a wise ass comments, yes I do wear my hood. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/welder.gif)
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Rusty
post Jan 21 2005, 10:03 AM
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I agree with Perry and others. Your welds don't look bad for just beginning. You've done a respectable job.

The problem with welding on rusted metal is that you can blow holes through the thin spots. Pruning the rust back to really solid metal is key.

Be proud of what you've done!

-Lawrence
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CptTripps
post Jan 21 2005, 10:11 AM
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QUOTE (Lawrence @ Jan 21 2005, 11:03 AM)
The problem with welding on rusted metal is that you can blow holes through the thin spots. Pruning the rust back to really solid metal is key.

Yeah, I figured that. That's the main reason I took out as much as I did. I probably could have just done 5-6 smaller patches, but wanted to MAKE SURE I wasn't going to need more patches later.

Thanks for the vote of confidence from everyone. I'm starting to feel better about this whole process!
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Root_Werks
post Jan 21 2005, 10:12 AM
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You are making a 914 solid again, looks good to me! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/welder.gif)
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dflesburg
post Jan 21 2005, 10:43 AM
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I started welding on the inside of my car and by the time I got thru my first roll of wire and tank of gas I was good enough to do the outside.

Make sure you buy easygrind wire...
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