I think my clutch exploded, Edit...actually a rear axle split in half Options

[bdstone914]

I don't think you can get a screw driver down inside the trailing arm to pry off the cv. Going to need to remove the stub axle. If you have vented rotors you can keep the hub from turning by putting a screw driver in a rotor slot and letting it rest again the bottom of the caliper. If you have slotted rotors ther are other ways to hold the hub and rotor from turning.

[Mike Bellis]

get the screwdriver next to the CV and try to wiggle it out. You cannot directly pry under the CV in the trailing arm.

[Dr Evil]

Did you still need a set of stock 914 output flanges? If so, let me know. Just pay shipping. I have lots of them.

[era vulgaris]

Did you still need a set of stock 914 output flanges? If so, let me know. Just pay shipping. I have lots of them.

I appreciate the offer, but I'm going to stick with the early 911 one's I've got. The CV's look good, so I'm going to re-use them. I figure there's no sense in spending money to replace the output flanges, stub axles, and CV's if I don't need to.

I ordered a set of those 20.25" 28 spline axles from Pacific Customs. They're supposed to arrive thursday, so just waiting on them to get here so I can install them. I also picked up some new boots, boot clamps, CV gaskets, and CV grease from Eric. Hopefully I'll be back on the road by Friday!

[era vulgaris]

So is there any way to get a new axle assembly in without removing the heat exchangers?

If not, is there any special knowledge I should be aware of before attempting to remove the heat exchangers?

[bdstone914]

So is there any way to get a new axle assembly in without removing the heat exchangers?

If not, is there any special knowledge I should be aware of before attempting to remove the heat exchangers?

You can get them in with out removing the heat exchangers. I think you have to pull the starter for clearance.
Bruce

[76-914]

So is there any way to get a new axle assembly in without removing the heat exchangers?

If not, is there any special knowledge I should be aware of before attempting to remove the heat exchangers?

I'd start soaking those studs/nuts in PB Blaster a few days prior to removing them. They want to back out of the aluminum leaving you with galled threads. Have a helicoil or timecert kit on hand before you start. Yes they are easy to drill out with the engine in the car if you step drill it. Not a step bit. Use regular bits but three different sizes. The hole acts like a guide when removing minimum amounts of material.

[era vulgaris]

You can get them in with out removing the heat exchangers. I think you have to pull the starter for clearance.
Bruce

I'm on the passenger side though. I can't quite figure a way to make it line up and get the stub axle into the trailing arm.

[era vulgaris]

I'd start soaking those studs/nuts in PB Blaster a few days prior to removing them. They want to back out of the aluminum leaving you with galled threads. Have a helicoil or timecert kit on hand before you start. Yes they are easy to drill out with the engine in the car if you step drill it. Not a step bit. Use regular bits but three different sizes. The hole acts like a guide when removing minimum amounts of material.

Ugh, this sounds like a nightmare!

The problem is that the car is on the ground with the stub axle removed, so I'm afraid to raise it or do anything that would cause the wheel to roll.
It's so dumb. With the broken axle halves coming right out, it didn't even occur to me that the exhaust would be in the way.

[ChrisFoley]

Raise the back end of the car.
With the car jacked up you should be able to get the new axle in without removing the heat exchanger.
Jacking up the car lowers the trailing arm relative to the transmission, making it easier to start the stub axle into the hub.

[era vulgaris]

Raise the back end of the car.
With the car jacked up you should be able to get the new axle in without removing the heat exchanger.
Jacking up the car lowers the trailing arm relative to the transmission, making it easier to start the stub axle into the hub.

This won't damage the bearing if the wheel turns a little bit?

[Mike Bellis]

Raise the back end of the car.
With the car jacked up you should be able to get the new axle in without removing the heat exchanger.
Jacking up the car lowers the trailing arm relative to the transmission, making it easier to start the stub axle into the hub.

This won't damage the bearing if the wheel turns a little bit?

bearings will be fine as long as there is no load on the wheel.

[era vulgaris]

Got it in! So these chromoly axles don't have the "stopper" on the inside side of the splines. I was able to slide the trans-side CV down over the axle, which let me get the axle above the trans with enough room to get the stub axle in the trailing arm. Didn't have to lift the car or drop the heat exchangers!

Took it for a test drive and all seems good. Thanks for the help and advice, everyone!