What is the best way to check a chassis for straightness?, We need to check our roller to make sure it is straight Options

[stevegm]

We bought a '75 roller that is nearly rust free. The hell hole is exposed and is nearly perfect. The pans are pretty good. But they do have some pin holes. We'll have them replaced to make sure all bases are covered.

But after we got the car home I noticed a small dent in the drivers side upright crumple brace in the front trunk. After taking the front bumper off, it is apparent that it has had a minor accident. The sheet metal on that side behind the bumper is rippled and wavy. About a 7 inch by 4 inch area. Also the fender is a little out of shape there. I took the headlight assembly out and it all looks perfect. No other signs of damage.

Anyhow, before we invest a ton of money doing a complete bare metal, tear down restoration, what is the best way to check this chassis to make sure it is completely straight?

Thanks,
Steve

[Steve]

Grab a tape measure and check the dimensions. Here is a link to the dimensions page.
http://www.914world.com/specs/914info.php
http://www.914world.com/specs/bodydims.php

[rick 918-S]

Post some photos.

[stevegm]

Here are photos of the questionable area.

Thanks,
Steve

[stevegm]

More photos.

Thanks,
Steve

[rick 918-S]

Doesn't look too serious. Check the measurements listed in the info section and maybe have a good body shop work the panel fit a little better if your not experienced. The last repair looks a little rough. The head light lift fit should be checked carefully before paint.

[stevegm]

Thanks. I will check the measurements. I just worry about damage stress left in the chassis. I considered having an alignment done now and seeing how that worked out, just to see if the chassis is straight. I would hate to get done with a restoration and then find issues with the chassis.

Also, I assume that it is better NOT to replace the fender if it can be repaired? I noticed a half dozen small holes drilled into it where they did the repairs.

Thanks,
Steve

[rick 918-S]

Yes, leave the fender on if it can be repaired. I effin hate when guys drill holes in panels and use a screw in type puller. Like that's going to work... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif) Specially when you can stick your hand behind the panel and fix it. Then they wad filler on it and think if they leave the holes the filler will stay on better. You end up with those ridiculous little worms hanging though the holes. Perfect to wick up moisture and rust the panel from behind. I call them California rivets. I've purchased no less than 6 cars from Cali with that kind of repair. If your not skilled in metal repair bring it to a shop to have the corner squared. Sounds like there may be more there than meets the eye. You don't have to have them do everything but someone already messed with it. It may be time to just get the corner blocked out then tackle the rest.

[stevegm]

Thanks. When you say "get the corner squared," what do you mean? Also, is there any way to inspect inside of the longitudinals to make sure they are not rusting inside? These look almost too good. I just want to check inside them if possible.

Thanks,
Steve

[SLITS]

Thanks. When you say "get the corner squared," what do you mean? Also, is there any way to inspect inside of the longitudinals to make sure they are not rusting inside? These look almost too good. I just want to check inside them if possible.

Thanks,
Steve

Boroscope

[stevegm]

Hi Rick,

Question - where do you measure the X measurement? I am getting some wild numbers. I must not be measuring it from the correct place? F is dead on on both sides.

Thanks,
Steve

[stevegm]

I grabbed these picture online (not my car). I am wondering where on the windshield post, and targa bar measurement X is taken? Or maybe some other location?

Thanks,
Steve