electrical end of the lock cylinder Options

[Kraftwerk]

(UPDATED with nice photo's below)

Looking find or restore the electrical end of the starter cylinder, where the black disc with the six contacts meets the copper bit has become separated. There was a tiny bit of corrosion and the switch malfunctioned. The lock and Key seem to be fine.
I left the roof off and rain got in there. (doh!) So I took everything apart to investigate the switch and contacts may be okay but its hard to tell a tiny spring popped out of somewhere, the other tiny spring is still in the center. The wires have been cut and soldered twice before reaching the 20 pin connector so someone has been in there before it looked kind of scrappy so I will make clean connections.
The car is a 1971, later build.


Secondly I want to drive my car since it is otherwise running like a top ( Thanks to Chris and Co. at Tangerine : )

Any clues on how to hot-wire it or add a temporary switch?
Here is a list of wires:
1. Red (Has a tiny burn mark on contact side)
2. Red and Black
3. gray
4. Black
5.Black and Yellow
Brown ( becomes Brown w/blue stripe)

thanks guys!

[Cap'n Krusty]

I would just buy a new switch. The part number is 311 905 865A, and it's readily available. Give GPR a call.

The Cap'n

[Kraftwerk]

Exactly what I as looking for! Thank You Cap'n

Ordered that part.

Still, any clues on how to hot-wire it?
Just want to hear the engine run, want to by-pass the switch
to make sure that was the only thing wrong.

[mikesmith]

ASSUMING that the wires on the switch are still the original colours:

- ignore the white wire
- connect the two red and the black wires all together in a bundle
- touch the yellow wire to the bundle to start
- disconnect the black wire to stop
- separate the bundle entirely to power off

[Harpo]

I ran a wire from the solenoid (yellow wire) to the large post on the starter with the big red wire from the battery. Then I hooked up push button switch. A whole lot easier when trouble shooting engine stuff.

Please be carful and make sure your car is not in gear

David

[Kraftwerk]

Thanks guys will try that later on..

[Kraftwerk]

Ok so the part arrives and it has two major
Differences , at least, from the original part:
It has only four wires 50 / 30 / P / 15
The original has six: 50/30/P/X/54(15/81) and brown with
Blue stripe in the middle. So that might not be the
End of the world if some of the wire scan be
Bundle together and or ignored but the
Part itself has another issue with compatability,
It doesn't line up with the original part. Will post a photo or two..

[Kraftwerk]

Oh yeah, and I can't hot wire the car either.
Starter turns but it will not kick over, I don't
hear the fuel pump click on...

[Harpo]

If the starter is running but your engine is not turning over you might not have the solenoid wired properly

[Cap'n Krusty]

In order to start the car by hotwiring it, you'll need to jumper "30" and "15" (typically, red and black). Then you need to momentarily jump the yellow ("50") wire to the "30" to make the starter function. Once it's started, remove the "50" wire from the "30".

The Cap'n

[Kraftwerk]

Here is the 1st issue I have with the replacement part: It has 2 LESS wires.
Old one has 6 new one has 4.

[Kraftwerk]

2nd issue: With the new part (on right) rotating part does not line-up in the same way as the old part. ( left )
The pin and the rotating part do not align in the lock cylinder, the new part does not "seat-in"
When I attempted to install it got a bit smushed ( see photo )
Then I discovered it is wrongly aligned to the spec's old part.

My car is a 1971 so it has some differences to the later years.. Might this new part might be for the 72/73-76 model years?

[Kraftwerk]

So that is when I got adventurous and decided just to rebuild the old part.
It has springs and all manner of small parts, one ball bearing. etc. Be careful when disassembling this part. I may have lost one spring. Is the copper plate supported by three springs there are three holds/holes for springs but only two springs. Also the copper part seems to be nicked on the edge. This is a case of reconstruction being very close to deconstruction. Tread lightly, the pot-metal is very cheap and fragile. I would love to just have a 'new' part, if anyone has one give me a shout.

I cleaned everything and cobbled it back together as well as possible will try it this afternoon.



Anyone ever re-build one of these?
Have one to sell?

[Kraftwerk]

Here is another shot of the parts inside, incase you are wondering what the hell is inside a lock-cylinder.







ps. In this photo an errant spring is pictured which is NOT and original part and was not used. ( yet )
Anyone have a diagram as to how this goes back together? I think I got it correctly but wanted to make sure..

[Kraftwerk]

'Rebuilt' switch still not working. Still can't get the car to start by hot-wiring it, it turns over well and fuel pump runs, ( but maybe not all together at once? ) Will check more tomorrow.

Again, with the1971-build there are differences later year cars.
Anybody know anything about the six wire vs. the four wire part?