Nearly naked teen! Options

[914GT]

QUOTE (jwalters @ Jan 25 2005, 04:30 PM)

Do you know where that " Head Gun "  has been?? Did you wash afterwards??? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)

Oops, sorry. I meant heat gun. Head gun is for an entirely different purpose (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)

[bondo]

QUOTE (Cabasa @ Jan 25 2005, 09:34 PM)

Ok I'll ask it, why did you choose blastin as opposed to chem strip? Is it cheaper? Better? I'm still on the fence on what I'm gonna do when it comes time.

A professional chemical dip is best.. brad had a thread about it a while back. It gets rust and paint off from EVERYWHERE. It's more work because you have to brace the door openings. (the acid will make the car too heavy to support iteslf as they pull it out of the tank) It's also more expensive, and not available in my part of the state. Sandblasting gets ALMOST everywhere, but then you have sand coming out of your car forever. (just ask Andy) Soda is a compromise, as it isn't as clingy as sand, and also can't deform the panels, as sand can.

I tried using home paint stripper applied with a brush, and also the spray kind. Neither did a good enough job and both took way too much time and effort. Hurts when you get it on your skin, too. I have also heard of it seeping out of joints later and ruining new paint (wouldn't THAT suck?)

[MattR]

QUOTE (bondo @ Jan 25 2005, 02:39 PM)

...rust holes (tattoos?)...

So is surface rust just a temporary tattoo? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)

[Brando]

how much does it cost when you take the car to be paint-stripped (material blast or chemical) then re-painted?

[bondo]

QUOTE (Brando @ Jan 26 2005, 12:38 AM)

how much does it cost when you take the car to be paint-stripped (material blast or chemical) then re-painted?

At this point I don't want to know (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif) I priced out the blasting at around $800, plus trailer rental. I will be doing the painting myself, so that will be cheaper. Overall it's gonna be too expensive to think about all at once. One step at a time (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif)

[Eric_Shea]

QUOTE

A professional chemical dip is best.. brad had a thread about it a while back.

I "totally" disagree (respectfully though...) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wub.gif)

1. What do you do to get the heater tubes out? You slice open the longitudinals, peel them up and pull them out. (see Brad's thread)

2. What are the longitudinals? The backbone of your tub. They are the single most important piece in the structural integrity of your tub. Do you really want to cut them open? You want to perform "major" back surgery for a simple facelift?

3. What do you do once you've cut and pried up the longitudinals? Replace them and the door sills. Plan on an additional $1,000 to $1,500 in metal work and labor to do it right. Why replace? Because you can't simply bend them back and reweld them as discussed (you can but the love you're laboring over will look like shit). For a couple hundered bucks, buy new ones.

4. What do you do to prevent further weeping of acid from your tub? All the seams weep. There's a spot in the passengers foot well that weeps. I have first hand experience on two tubs. One was my early 911 (66 car) and another was a friends tub that was dipped at the shop Brad recommended. It was supposedly neutralized and then primed. While the primer work was exceptional and the acid got all the paint and rust off, the tub began weeping, and weeping, and weeping. It took an additional 10-20 hours to "attempt" to get all the acid enduced rust from the seams. Literally, everywhere there was metal sandwiched together, the car was rusting. On the cheap that's an additional $1,000.00

5. Cost. Brad's shop charged over $3,000 because of the necessity to pull all the seam sealer and undercoating off.

Add it up. It's comes to $5-6k to acid dip it using that method and wanting to keep the heater tubes. Joe (914RS) and John (Johnman) both acid dipped their tubs. Joe mentioned a new type of acid dipping. I'll let him chime in here. John mentioned that he didn't care about his heater tubes (race car)

I posted extensive pictures of acid weeping in a previous thread. I'm not making it up.

Your soda blasting is "best" IMHO. Even sand or other media blasting (when done properly) would be better for a car as nice as that one. Why cut longitudinals if you don't need to? I'd rather have a little sand come out when I turn a corner vs. acid eternialy weeping out and rusting my car further or ruining my new $5k paint job.

Your tub is sweet BTW (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smilie_pokal.gif)

[bondo]

Wow, I didn't know about the seam weeping. I thought the neutralizing dip was supposed to take care of that.. it obviously doesn't though.

As for cutting the longs open, when i said best i should have clarified... I meant best for what I was doing.. since I'm going V8, I don't need the tubes in the longs. If I were acid dipping I'd leave them and let em dissolve. But now I'm convinced it's not the best, because of the weeping issue.

Good to know I'm doing the right thing! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif)

BTW, the tub is pretty nice but far from perfect. It's got rear trunk rust, a hell hole (long is intact though) and a heck hole (sail panel by door latch). After the soda blast they should be pretty easy to fix though.

[gopack]

If you live in New Mexico like me, there is sand coming out of every nook and cranny anyways! I have been leaning towards the soda blasting, and that way I can leave the wiring harness intact. Problem is I have no idea how to find some one that does that work around here!

[bondo]

I found the place I'm going to use under "sandblasting" in the yellow pages. I just called around, and it turns out this place is about to start doing soda blasting.

[Eric_Shea]

QUOTE

I thought the neutralizing dip was supposed to take care of that

Me too... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/huh.gif)

QUOTE

It's got rear trunk rust, a hell hole (long is intact though) and a heck hole (sail panel by door latch). After the soda blast they should be pretty easy to fix though

Agreed... should be a sweet project. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beer.gif)

914RS mentioned a different type of dip in a previous thread. Maybe he can elaborate on that.

I still think soda is the bomb. Period.

[Series9]

QUOTE (Eric_Shea @ Jan 26 2005, 10:52 AM)

Add it up. It's comes to $5-6k to acid dip it using that method and wanting to keep the heater tubes. Joe (914RS) and John (Johnman) both acid dipped their tubs. Joe mentioned a new type of acid dipping. I'll let him chime in here. John mentioned that he didn't care about his heater tubes (race car)

Mine was done at Metal Rehab in Ft. Worth, TX. They have a new, non-acid method of dipping cars. It takes a month, so it's slower than acid, but it has the advantages of both worlds. Weeping later is harmless and it gets everywhere that blasting could not.

I did open my longs on the inside to remove the heater tubes, but you could just leave them in there.

Metal Rehab is the only place in the country doing this process and have had people bring cars from as far away as Key West and San Diego.

Mine was the first 914 they had done and their price for 914s is based on my car at $1300.

It's a big deal, because you have to drop the car off, then return in a month to pick it up. I invested 40 total hours of driving in two round trips from Albuquerque.

I plan to use them in the future. They were very friendly and very careful with my girl.

Here's a couple of pics:

[Series9]

another:

[Series9]

Here's a before pic:

[mudfoot76]

QUOTE (McMark @ Jan 25 2005, 10:47 PM)

Get new windshield trim clips, otherwise you'll watch helplessly as it flies off when you're cruising down the freeway.

Sorry to hikack the thread, but my windshield trim has started to come lose on the driver's side. I can press it back down and it will stay for awhile, but will eventually start to "peel" up last time I drove it on the open roads. Short of replacement, is there a more permanent fix available? The rest of the windshield trim appears to be fine. Pictue attached for reference...

[Eric_Shea]

QUOTE

Sorry to hikack the thread

No problem. Joe was just showing us pictures of his UGLY car (it now has an UGLY motor to go in it, UGLY deck lids, it's UGLY yellow... oh, he has UGLY dogs and an UGLY wife too!!) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/w00t.gif)

Try a little butyl tape under that trim piece. If you cruise by a glass shop they'll probably rip off a piece and give it to you.

Just kidding of course Joe

[Series9]

QUOTE (Eric_Shea @ Jan 26 2005, 05:49 PM)

No problem. Joe was just showing us pictures of his UGLY car (it now has an UGLY motor to go in it, UGLY deck lids, it's UGLY yellow... oh, he has UGLY dogs and an UGLY wife too!!) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/w00t.gif)

My ugly wife is a kick boxing instructor and says she's looking forward to meeting you at WCC! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ohmy.gif)

[bondo]

QUOTE (mudfoot76 @ Jan 26 2005, 04:16 PM)

Sorry to hikack the thread, but my windshield trim has started to come lose on the driver's side. I can press it back down and it will stay for awhile, but will eventually start to "peel" up last time I drove it on the open roads. Short of replacement, is there a more permanent fix available? The rest of the windshield trim appears to be fine. Pictue attached for reference...

There are trim clips 2"-3" from the corner on both pieces. It sounds like they're not staying clipped. You might be able to fidget with the trim where it gets clipped to make it stay better, but it'd probably require removing the trim (major pain). Eric's idea would probably work and it's MUCH easier. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif)

[DJsRepS]

I fixed mine quick see pic. Actually temp fex it needs a windshield deal with it then.

[mudfoot76]

QUOTE (bondo @ Jan 27 2005, 01:12 AM)

There are trim clips 2"-3" from the corner on both pieces. It sounds like they're not staying clipped. You might be able to fidget with the trim where it gets clipped to make it stay better, but it'd probably require removing the trim (major pain). Eric's idea would probably work and it's MUCH easier. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif)

Thanks for the input! I'll look for this butyl tape. Slightly more elegant than the duct tape, and I won't have to mess up my factory vinyl windshield trim (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)

This place rocks (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smilie_pokal.gif)

[Eric_Shea]

QUOTE

My ugly wife is a kick boxing instructor and says she's looking forward to meeting you at WCC!

You better hope not, she'll never want to come back to you (and your ugly car with the ugly motor and the ugly deck lids)! I'll have an extra room key made up just in case though. I'll have it in an envelope at the front desk marked "Joe's "Beautiful" Wife"... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)

Did I mention how beautiful I think your wife is? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wub.gif)

(how the hell am I going to explain all this to my wife?) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/unsure.gif)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)