Push Rod Tubes, Any trixs/shortcuts? Options

[martinef1963]

I have a annoying oil leak and I believe it's coming from the push rods.

I was reading the classic threads in hope that there was something there, but there is not.

Can someone break this process down to a newbie that is learning?

I would post pixs, but my digital is OTS.

thanks,

[Allan]

Is your motor in or out?

[kenporacer]

If its not now it will be soon!! Tube seals would be my 1st guess.

[Porsche Rescue]

All I know is it can be done with engine in the car. I once paid a pro about $150-175 to replace them. I too am waiting to hear from someone who can describe the process.

[scotty914]

in car : pull the valve covers, undo the rockers and remove them, pull the push rods, pull the wire retainer, push the tubes out to head, install new seals, put teflon pipe sealent on orings, push tubes back in to head with a rotating motion, might need to use small screw driver to work orings in to position so they dont get cut, install wire retainer install push rods making sure they go in to the lifters, install rockers, adjust valves, install valve covers

as simple as it gets, but there is a lot of wiggling and cursing to get some things around the suspention ear, and torqueing is real fun with very little clearence

[Mueller]

it's pretty simple:

1. get car jacked up and secure,
2. drain oil
3. remove valve covers
4. put a cylinder on TDC, remove the rocker arm assembly from that cylinder..

5.repeat process #4 on the next 3 cylinders (do not mix up the parts)

6.you should now be able to remove a push rod and the tubes, easiest way to remove a tube is to place a 19mm open end wrench on the necked down section and tap with a hammer towards the head.

7.on some cylinders, the push rod and tube has to be removed at the same time...you'll get the idea when you try to remove one or the other...you can get lucky on some and be able to access the seals and replace while the tube is halfway in the head.

8. for re-assembly, use a socket that fit's into the tube and tap with a hammer to help drive it into the block and the head.

9.if you put the cylinders back to TDC for each rocker assembly, you don't have to readjust your valves, but you should at least check them while under there....


hope that makes some sense and helps (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif)

[Porsche Rescue]

Teflon pipe sealant? I am familiar with teflon tape for pipe joints. Sealant comes in a tube??

[MarkV]

WHITE SEAL PIPE JOINT COMPOUND WITH TEFLON - WHITE : Grit-free, extreme duty pipe joint compound with a special blend of homogenized Teflon particles and non-toxic oils; for sealing and lubricating all metal and most plastic threaded piping systems carrying acids, air & gases, ammonia, brine, caustic alkalis, corrosives, freons, fuel & oils, solvents, sugar, steam and water. Not for fluorine, molten metals or oxygen systems. NSF listed.

[Allan]

I wonder if these seals would be worth a look?

http://www.whiteseal.com/

[Elliot_Cannon]

Can you then replace the valve lifters while you are doing this?
Cheers, Elliot

[jwalters]

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) I just did mine about 5 months ago--on jack stands--cursing is putting it politely---use a lift if at all possible andd stand under it--

Elliot--It has been my experience that one should never replace lifters with the original cam--not saying it is not or cannot be done---but I have seen cams and lifters chewed to bits using this method--IMHO--keep the cam and lifters " matched" .

I am sure others here have more experience with this motor tho--I am weened on T1 and watercooled and turbines...

[Elliot_Cannon]

Thanks. I was considering installing the ceramic lifters. I guess there is no easy way and I'll be tearing down this engine one day.
Cheers, Elliot

[Allan]

QUOTE (MarkV @ Jan 26 2005, 04:04 PM)

WHITE SEAL PIPE JOINT COMPOUND WITH TEFLON - WHITE : Grit-free, extreme duty pipe joint compound with a special blend of homogenized Teflon particles and non-toxic oils; for sealing and lubricating all metal and most plastic threaded piping systems carrying acids, air & gases, ammonia, brine, caustic alkalis, corrosives, freons, fuel & oils, solvents, sugar, steam and water. Not for fluorine, molten metals or oxygen systems. NSF listed.

Does this stuff stay soft and allow the tubes to float from expansion?

[jwalters]

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif) Yea, it congeals with a skin on the outer layer--we use this stuff on every engine part that is exposed to oil, coolant, etc-- Just ry not to get any of it on the actual inside of the motor where it could possibly ooze down and mix with the oil--then it might partially / fully plug those tiny crucial oil passages.

I put it on the 1/2 center to outer part of the oring--because of its viscosity, when you insert the tube, it will actually " drag " the sealant with it--use mek or acetone to clean the bungs dry of oily mess---

[Mueller]

QUOTE (Elliot Cannon @ Jan 26 2005, 05:55 PM)

Thanks. I was considering installing the ceramic lifters. I guess there is no easy way and I'll be tearing down this engine one day. Cheers, Elliot

yes, you could replace the lifters, the problem you need to address is that they require shorter push rods and it might be hard to figure out the correct length while the motor is in the car.....