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> Auxillary Air Regulator, Adaptations?
bd1308
post Jan 27 2005, 10:40 AM
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Hey, I was thinking about something....the 2.0L AAR is NLA, BUT the 1.8L(?) AAR pictured at this link is available straight from bosch....anybody know the pinout on the plug on this AAR so I can work on some conversions?

Part
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Bleyseng
post Jan 27 2005, 10:42 AM
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Ya need a AAR valve? got an extra.

Geoff (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)
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bd1308
post Jan 27 2005, 10:46 AM
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yeah man....I LOVE THIS FORUM! hang on to it for a bit, and I will pm you. I am in the middle of repairing my car, buying another 914 and trying to work out getting to New York! But hell yeah I would love to buy yours
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Demick
post Jan 27 2005, 10:56 AM
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Hmmm. What I really need is an AAR (or something equivalent) that is adjustable for how much air it lets through, and how fast it closes up. Actually, how much air it lets through is easy to control with an in-line orifice, so all I really need is one that I can control how fast it closes.

My 2056 with #73 webcam only needs the AAR for about 1 or 2 minutes. But my AAR takes 5-10 minutes to fully close on the bench - but takes even longer in the car when there is cold air running through it - up to 15 or 20 minutes. This was never a problem before I rebuilt my engine (was a 2056 before, but with a stock cam). I don't know why exactly, but the new engine only needs the AAR for a short amount of time. Currently I just get very high idle (1800rpm) while I'm waiting for the AAR to close - which like I said can be 10-20 minutes.

Anyone have any idea if there is an aftermarket or application from another vehicle which could be adapted?

Demick
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bd1308
post Jan 27 2005, 11:05 AM
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dude....it's exactly what I am trying to hook up. I just need the danged 1.8L pin-outs for the heater....I have the 2-pin solex plug for it, now just need the pinout (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif) then i'll be movin' (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/burnout.gif)
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Bleyseng
post Jan 27 2005, 11:06 AM
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Sounds like the AAR is sticking as it closes in 5 minutes due to the little heater in it. If it staying open then something is going on. A cam change won't affect the AAR as it is just a air bleed valve. As you say you can install a orifice to adjust the air.

Geoff
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bd1308
post Jan 27 2005, 11:07 AM
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your heater isnt working...there is a built in heater that is used to close that little bimetallic thing....that's why you have high idle for 15-30 minutes....i need to look at this new car's engine setup....mine is BOTCHED (read SCREWED UP) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif)
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Demick
post Jan 27 2005, 11:24 AM
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QUOTE (bd1308 @ Jan 27 2005, 09:07 AM)
your heater isnt working...

The heater in the AAR is working. I hooked it up to 12V on the bench and it gets hot and closes completely in 5-10 minutes. But like I said, it seems to close more slowly when it is in the car and 40F air is being sucked through it making it harder for the heater to do it's job.
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Demick
post Jan 27 2005, 11:28 AM
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QUOTE (Bleyseng @ Jan 27 2005, 09:06 AM)
A cam change won't affect the AAR

Geoff

Yes, I know a cam change will not affect the AAR. It is just that my new engine doesn't seem to need the extra air provided by the AAR for very long during warmup. It is only needed for 1-2 minutes. After that, I just get high idle until it closes. If I manually plug the AAR line after 2 minutes, the idle speed is good.

Demick
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bd1308
post Jan 27 2005, 11:45 AM
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if the car runs cold without the AAR at at all then you don't need it....if you don't need the extra air, why dont you just plug the hoses and we'll trade AARs (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)
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Demick
post Jan 27 2005, 12:04 PM
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Tried that. But it is needed for a couple of minutes.
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bd1308
post Jan 27 2005, 12:35 PM
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anybody have a late-model VW to test this out on? oh and BTW, whats up with the PP forum? I can't get to it
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Dave_Darling
post Jan 27 2005, 12:36 PM
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QUOTE (bd1308 @ Jan 27 2005, 09:05 AM)
... I just need the danged 1.8L pin-outs for the heater....I have the 2-pin solex plug for it, now just need the pinout (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif) ....

The Pinout:

Left pin == +12V
Right pin == ground

...Or is it the other way around? Doesn't matter--the heater will function with current flowing either way! (If one pin has 0 resistance to the outside of the AAR, it's the ground.)

--DD
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SirAndy
post Jan 27 2005, 12:37 PM
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QUOTE (bd1308 @ Jan 27 2005, 08:40 AM)
anybody know the pinout on the plug on this AAR so I can work on some conversions?

yes, the 1.8 replacement will work just fine ...
it has two prongs, one for the 12V and one for the ground (doh!) ...

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/cool.gif) Andy
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bd1308
post Jan 27 2005, 12:47 PM
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dave, are you referring to teh late-model VW one or the part I posted? I am real confused by the late model one, but these 1.8 regulators are all over the place and I was just gonna hook something up while my 914 is getting repaired
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lapuwali
post Jan 27 2005, 01:21 PM
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QUOTE (R.J. @ Jan 27 2005, 10:21 AM)
I think the AAR evolved into the idle control valve on later VWs. I’m not sure what inputs the computer used to control the valve but probably intake air and coolant temp sensors, idle speed and throttle position. Might be possible to fit one to the 914 and build a black box to control it.

(IMG:http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/C403032334.JPG)

This isn't 914 or VW specific: Most ECUs only use coolant temp for the idle control valve. For cars that have AC compressors, there's often a switch to raise the idle a tad to compensate for the load the compressor imposes when it's clutched in. Some idle control valves are just switches (100% and 0% are the only settings), where others are variable valves like the AAR. The variable ones usually require a variable width pulse to set the amount they're open.

Remarkably few ECUs use the engine speed as a feedback to control idle speed, at least as late as the early 90s.

Controlling an switch-type idle control valve could be done fairly easily with a small adjustable comparator circuit and a thermistor. Total cost would be under $10 (not including a junkyard valve). Instead of an actual automotive valve, I've seen people use small solenoid valves sold for use with fish tanks. No idea on cost, and the junkyard valve might be cheaper. Controlling one of the variable valves would require more work, and probably wouldn't be worth the effort.
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Dave_Darling
post Jan 27 2005, 07:54 PM
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QUOTE (bd1308 @ Jan 27 2005, 10:47 AM)
dave, are you referring to teh late-model VW one or the part I posted?

The stock 1.8 part, the pic that you posted.

BTW, a couple of years ago the 1.8 ones were also NLA and the part number had superceded to a 944 part that looked rather different... Glad to see someone is making them again.

--DD
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bd1308
post Jan 27 2005, 08:12 PM
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well Dave, if i remember correctly PP was also making them too, right? (as well as AA) I could be delusional though
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redshift
post Jan 27 2005, 08:22 PM
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QUOTE (Bleyseng @ Jan 27 2005, 12:42 PM)
Ya need a AAR valve? got an extra.

Geoff (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)

heh

F



U



M
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bd1308
post Jan 27 2005, 08:23 PM
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(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/chairfall.gif) i dont get it....BTW...thesee avatars are so funny!!!
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