getting under the heat shield..., how the heck do you get in there? Options

[barebrad]

Alright folks, I've been cleaning, grinding and sand blasting all day. I'm trying trying to figure out how to get under the heat shield? Do you cut it out? Just leave it alone? (I'm to OCD to do that!) I'm thinking about cutting it out and weld in some studs and I can bolt it in after paint. What do most do?

Thanks

[Mike Bellis]

You would have to cut it out. A tab on each side and a spot weld in the middle.

[barefoot]

there are 6 tabs with 2 spot welds each if you can pinpoint them and drill them out.
I had to replace the rear trunk panel, so cut around the 6 tabs and liberated the heat shield, then attached to the new trunk panel with SS pop rivets.

[worn]

Alright folks, I've been cleaning, grinding and sand blasting all day. I'm trying trying to figure out how to get under the heat shield? Do you cut it out? Just leave it alone? (I'm to OCD to do that!) I'm thinking about cutting it out and weld in some studs and I can bolt it in after paint. What do most do?

Thanks

Mine came off when the trunk floor fell out. OK I cut some. I figure on putting it back with screws or bolts to match the eventual six muffler. Then you have a smooth surface to work on. My car is 3 feet off the ground and I keep hitting my head on it. Good luck!

[SirAndy]

there are 6 tabs with 2 spot welds each if you can pinpoint them and drill them out.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Early cars used screws which makes for much easier removal. Later cars have them spot welded.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[EdwardBlume]

Out of sight... Out of mind?

[barebrad]

Are the spot welds in the bottom of the trunk? If they are between the floor panel and the heat shield, I don't see how get a drill in there...

I saw no screws, but based on the amount of crud, there could be human remains in there and I couldn't tell! Nice to be doing this with the car on a rotisserie.

there are 6 tabs with 2 spot welds each if you can pinpoint them and drill them out.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Early cars used screws which makes for much easier removal. Later cars have them spot welded.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[malcolm2]

there are 6 tabs with 2 spot welds each if you can pinpoint them and drill them out.
I had to replace the rear trunk panel, so cut around the 6 tabs and liberated the heat shield, then attached to the new trunk panel with SS pop rivets.

Rivets sound good. If you ever had to take it out, just drill them out. I took the "out of site" road. Stuck my wire brush in as far as I could reach, hit it with some primer and paint and called it DONE. On this piece there is nowhere for the water to sit and rust it out. The rust comes from the trunk acting like a dog bowl with water in it.

I am a fan of the spot weld cutter mounted in a drill. All the metal is still there. When you go to put it back, just tack the old spot to the old hole, grind and paint.

Clark

[SirAndy]

I saw no screws

Only the factory /6 cars and very early /4 cars had screws which were screwed in from inside the trunk.


Not sure if you can see the spotwelds and drill from the trunk side on the later cars ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[scotty b]

I saw no screws

Only the factory /6 cars and very early /4 cars had screws which were screwed in from inside the trunk.


Not sure if you can see the spotwelds and drill from the trunk side on the later cars ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

Yes you can see them form the trunk side. you may have to dig the seam sealer out( should be done anyways) Run a piece of 80 grit over the top of the areas to highlight the centers of the spot welds, or just strip all the paint off the welded spots to find them

[Johny Blackstain]

Only the factory /6 cars and very early /4 cars had screws which were screwed in from inside the trunk.

I didn't know that. Going to have to check my six. I'd like to replace that & the steering rack pan w/ stainless. Hell, I'd like to replace all the sheet metal with stainless (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[barefoot]

[quote name='malcolm2' date='Sep 22 2014, 02:56 PM' post='2089046']
[quote name='barefoot' post='2088826' date='Sep 21 2014, 07:58 PM']
there are 6 tabs with 2 spot welds each if you can pinpoint them and drill them out.
I had to replace the rear trunk panel, so cut around the 6 tabs and liberated the heat shield, then attached to the new trunk panel with SS pop rivets.
[/quote]

Rivets sound good. If you ever had to take it out, just drill them out. I took the "out of site" road. Stuck my wire brush in as far as I could reach, hit it with some primer and paint and called it DONE. On this piece there is nowhere for the water to sit and rust it out. The rust comes from the trunk acting like a dog bowl with water in it.

I am a fan of the spot weld cutter mounted in a drill. All the metal is still there. When you go to put it back, just tack the old spot to the old hole.

Here is photo of old trunk panel. you can see where i cut around the 6 tabs, this should get you close.
Barefoot

[Spoke]

I removed the heat shield initially to do some trunk floor rust repairs. Instead of attaching it permanently, I welded bolts on the hangers and drilled holes in the floor for the mounting bolts.

I've now had the shield off 2 times after that to do maintenance under the car.