 Exhaust Leaks at head |
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| NFBrown |
 Sep 27 2014, 11:18 AM
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#1
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Newbie  Group: Members Posts: 34 Joined: 27-February 13 From: Boise, Idaho Member No.: 15,587 Region Association: Pacific Northwest  |
What is there left to do after filing the end of the heat exchanger pipes, installing new copper gaskets, and torquing to 18 ftlb? I know some say torque untill the leak stops but when pressurized only with the shop vac at least three of the four joints were leaking. But at what torque do the studs pull out?
The car is a 1.7 1973 with 1.8 heads so I used the larger copper gaskets. I'm going to take it apart again. measure the joint to flange dimension, and file the mounting ears if needed. Anybody have any other ideas? Nick |
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| SLITS |
Sep 27 2014, 11:27 AM
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#2
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"This Utah shit is HARSH!" Group: Benefactors Posts: 13,602 Joined: 22-February 04 From: SoCal Mountains ... Member No.: 1,696 Region Association: None  |
Anneal the gaskets prior to installation.
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| NFBrown |
Sep 27 2014, 08:17 PM
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#3
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 34 Joined: 27-February 13 From: Boise, Idaho Member No.: 15,587 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
I removed the heat exchangers again and found that the surfaces that mate with the head are not in the same plane. Probably the result of previous filing. The easy way to correct this would be a milling machine but I'll probably use a file. Then yes, I'll aneal the gaskets. Thanks
Nick |
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| messix |
Sep 27 2014, 08:48 PM
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#4
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AKA "CLUTCH KILLER"! Group: Members Posts: 6,995 Joined: 14-April 05 From: between shit kickers and pinky lifters/ puget sound wa.north of Seattle south of Canada Member No.: 3,931 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
this is what I have done, loosen all attachments and then lightly tighten the h/e like you are torqueing a cylinder head, little bit at a time in a rotation. then tighten the muffler to h/e.
now while car is still on jack stands start car and listen for exhaust leaks. if you hear it off one of the exhaust ports at the head back off the nuts and tighten again, you might have to tighten down one side of the stub and loosen the other and work it that way to seal it. then work the leaks back to the muffler by tightening and shifting the attachments. watch out for warped h/e to muffler flanges. you might have to hammer them back to straight and flush. |
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| messix |
Sep 27 2014, 08:54 PM
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#5
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AKA "CLUTCH KILLER"! Group: Members Posts: 6,995 Joined: 14-April 05 From: between shit kickers and pinky lifters/ puget sound wa.north of Seattle south of Canada Member No.: 3,931 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
oh!!!
and only use a 1/4" drive ratchet and don't crank it down!! the spec is in inch pounds and not that much 15-18 I think. |
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| Dave_Darling |
Sep 28 2014, 10:34 AM
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#6
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,982 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California 
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QUOTE(NFBrown @ Sep 27 2014, 07:17 PM)  I removed the heat exchangers again and found that the surfaces that mate with the head are not in the same plane. Use a long file and run it across both tubes at once. It makes a gaddawful racket, but it will make sure that both are in the same plane. --DD |
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| rhodyguy |
Sep 28 2014, 11:58 AM
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#7
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. Group: Members Posts: 22,075 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
Mark the tops of the pipes with a black sharpie prior to filing. Use a big bastard file so you do both on one heatexchanger at the same time on each pass. Only take off as much as needed
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