Is Your Pedal Stop Adjusted Correctly, what could possibly go wrong? Options

[76-914]

I wanted to pass this along. On my way out of town last week I decided to garage Blanco (the white 76). I hadn't started it in 2 weeks and when it needed a "goose" to keep it from dieing I inadvertently "mashed" the pedal to the floor. The idle wouldn't drop below 2500rpm and I was on my way out so I just parked it in the garage. In my mind, I decided I had a deteriorated cable tube and that my excessive force had scissored the end of the tube as my cable sliced thru the end. Not the case!. What I found was the Bell Crank end on the right side of the pedal assm (where the round knob that slides into the accelerator rod) had bent due to excessive lateral force. IOW, the pedal went to the left of center whilst the other end of the rod went right of center which caused the Bell Crank to bend inwards towards the tunnel. There should be about an 8-10mm gap between the tunnel wall and the Bell Crank. With out that gap the Bell Crank cannot return completely as it collides with the tunnel wall. The fix was simple. Just bend it back into place. I adjusted my pedal stop out to the proper point and tried to recreate that fiasco to no avail. It's just a 13mm plastic head that in my case needed to back out a lot. It only needs to contact the pedal at the end of it's travel. Never seemed important until now. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif) I checked the stop on Kugel (the Black one) and it was the same?????? Were these not set at the factory or are the aftermarket cable discrepancies to blame? No matter but you might check yours. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[dcecc1968]

Uh oh. I have been driving mine for a year now without a pedal stop.... guess its time to get one. Thanks for the reminder.
-Don

[pilothyer]

I thought you were supposed to screw the pedal stop all the way in to make the car go faster (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Jeffs9146]

FYI: A word of warning, once the bell crank bends it is only a short time until the weld breaks the rest of the way!

[pilothyer]

Another thought....imagine the stress on the throttle cable as well as the throttle valve or in the case of carbs the throttle shafts.

[76-914]

FYI: A word of warning, once the bell crank bends it is only a short time until the weld breaks the rest of the way!

Good point and I'll watch for that, Jeff. I don't believe the weld broke though. Easy enough to check with an inspection mirror.

[ThePaintedMan]

A note from us "carb guys" too: A properly adjusted throttle stop can help you from trashing a perfectly good throttle shaft or even a whole carb as well. It's also not a bad idea to refrain from punching it too hard, as even the drag between the pedal, cable and return spring itself is enough to twist a throttle shaft if you really hammer it hard.

[ThePaintedMan]

Oh yeah, and while you're at it... check your clutch stop too. Dr. Evil has posted instructions here before... now it's up to you to find them (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[bdstone914]

FYI: A word of warning, once the bell crank bends it is only a short time until the weld breaks the rest of the way!

Good point and I'll watch for that, Jeff. I don't believe the weld broke though. Easy enough to check with an inspection mirror.

They break easily. I have about 20 broken ones. most were braised not welded. I have found some factory ones that were welded. I have extras if you need one. I have straightened many and about half of them crack the braising joint.
Also check the rod that goes from the pedal to the accelerator crank. They bend easile too.
Bruce

[mskala]

A note from us "carb guys" too: A properly adjusted throttle stop can help you from trashing a perfectly good throttle shaft or even a whole carb as well. It's also not a bad idea to refrain from punching it too hard, as even the drag between the pedal, cable and return spring itself is enough to twist a throttle shaft if you really hammer it hard.

Yeah, with carbs you don't want to exceed the limit.
I made a jam nut just to be sure the thing didn't move on me.

[EdwardBlume]

On a stock setup up a missing accelerator stop when over applied will tork the throttle assembly and rip open new holes in your plenum. Nice if you want high idle. Not nice if you don't. Went through two good plenums before a 1 dollar pedal stop bolt fixed it.

[dcecc1968]

I "sometimes" have a high idle issue on my 1.7 with a single carb because the pedal won't fully return...... this might be the culprit.

OK, does anyone know of a good source for the pedal stops (member vendor) or should I just place a WTB add in classifieds?

Also, does anyone have a photo of the bell housing what a bent one looks like?

Thanks,
Don

[EdwardBlume]

A faulty return on the gas pedal can also be rust in the accelerator tube. You have to carefully pull it out and spray wd40 down the tube to hopefully clear the problem. Make sure also you don't have a bent tube.

[76-914]

I "sometimes" have a high idle issue on my 1.7 with a single carb because the pedal won't fully return...... this might be the culprit.

OK, does anyone know of a good source for the pedal stops (member vendor) or should I just place a WTB add in classifieds?

Also, does anyone have a photo of the bell housing what a bent one looks like?

Thanks,
Don

Contact bdstone (Bruce Stone) or Garold Shaffer here for that part.

[Mikey914]

Guys,
If you need them I have the screw stops -
http://shop.914rubber.com/914-Pedal-Stop-A...m?categoryId=-1 $6

The stop bases -
http://shop.914rubber.com/914-Pedal-board-...m?categoryId=-1 $12

And new pedal boards, as the late ones are fiberboard they tend to fall apart
http://shop.914rubber.com/Plywood-floor-bo...nly-914FB-P.htm
$37.50