Converting to a 914-6, I am not a mechanic... Am I crazy....? |
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Converting to a 914-6, I am not a mechanic... Am I crazy....? |
wndsrfr |
Oct 28 2014, 08:24 PM
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#41
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,428 Joined: 30-April 09 From: Rescue, Virginia Member No.: 10,318 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Now that you've gotten the picture about doing the conversion from both the time investment and dollar expenditure I urge you to drive a "big 4" before you set out down that slippery slope. I've got both a wild 6 (2.7 RS Spec) and a wild big 4 (2316 Raby Kit). They both have their own personalities but frankly the 4 is just as much fun as the 6. Best part of the big 4 is that the engine work is simple. Complete rebuild if necessary (new crank, P&C's, bearings) can be done for about $2K in parts.
Come drive mine....I'm serious....you'll love it! John |
Justinp71 |
Oct 28 2014, 11:06 PM
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#42
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,583 Joined: 11-October 04 From: Sacramento, CA Member No.: 2,922 Region Association: None |
What would be the best , 6 displacement ??? For stock ,wheels suspension, no flares . Etc . And if not doing all the above wouldn't you always at least have it to Stock 914-6 equlilvant spec . Which is what exactly for which displacement s 2.0 only ? Anyone ? I would say a stockish 3.0. they have 180hp and decent low end torq. The mag case motors (2.0-2.7) are expensive to rebuild and are not a big enough bump in power in stock form to be worth all the cost. Realistically all you need is good performance tires and good condition stockish brakes to go along with it. They don't have to be crazy brakes, just good stock should do the trick. I'm only running M-calipers that are slightly larger than stock with street/race pads and racing brake fluid and I can lock up 225's (front/rear, shoot I was locking up 255's in the rear for awhile) easy enough. It also stops great on the track. I do notice larger calipers need less brake input though for stopping, so that is nice. Also I recommend the power bleeders and a 19mm master cylinder, makes for quick responding firm brakes. You will want rear springs a little stiffer as a 911 engine weighs more. It all depends on what you want to do with the car. Good Luck! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) |
Dave_Darling |
Oct 29 2014, 11:21 AM
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#43
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,981 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
The 2.4 is the best Six engine for a narrow body car.
No, wait--the 3.2 is the best Six! No, wait--it's a 2.5 liter short-stroke with carbs! No, wait--it's a screaming high-revving 2.0 S motor! Really, there isn't any one "best". Any Six is a hoot. The 3.6 motors produce enough torque to overwhelm any rear tires that fit under the stock fenders, and the 3.2s seem a bit marginal that way. But if you're careful with your right foot (until you want power-on oversteer!!) they can be fine too. And I still can't figure out the last sentence. Which is what for huh?? Can we try that again? --DD |
wndsnd |
Oct 29 2014, 06:39 PM
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#44
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You wanted a horse, but got a goat. Nobody wants a goat.... Group: Members Posts: 2,861 Joined: 12-February 12 From: North Shore, MA Member No.: 14,124 Region Association: North East States |
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