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> dumb kinda-newbie question
bd1308
post Jan 29 2005, 11:22 PM
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very dumb question but I was wondering if the 1.7L engine and the 2.0L engine (both being D-jet...if i remember right) would be able to be swapped witout any/much work/wiring. Seems as if 1.7L heads and associated parts are easier to find. My engine is on the way out, just driving it till something busts through the side of my 74 914. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif) AND is there any easy way to get some punch out of a 2.0L....how restrictive is the airbox setup. Seen some people with make-shift K&N cones....work well? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/unsure.gif)
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balthazar
post Jan 29 2005, 11:42 PM
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The 1.7 to 2.0 swap is pretty easy to do. You can adapt a 1.7 FI setup to a 2.0 motor, but it's not a good idea. Hopefully the 2.0 would come with the FI installed. The 74' shell has all the wiring needed for the 2.0 motor and stock FI.

There really is not much you can do to a 2.0 without actually changing the motor configuration. Especially if you intend to use the stock FI. If you go with carbs and put a cam in, you can gain a few HP. The next step would be to build a 2056cc motor by putting 96mm Pistons and cylinders on the 2.0 bottom end (you are cracking the case anyway, so why not?).

After you go to the trouble of cracking the case and adding new P&C's, it would be a shame to close it up again without head work. A little port and polish can go a long way! Since the heads are going to the shop anyway, you might as well get bigger exaust valves and....

Well, I think you know where I'm headed... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif)
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Rhodes71/914
post Jan 29 2005, 11:46 PM
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I am in the middle of swapping a 2.0L for my tired 1.7L. It is a pretty direct swap. There are diffences in some of the d-jet stuff though. MPS is calibrated to either the 1.7 or 2.0. I think the TPS is different as well.

If your 74 is a 2.0 I think you will want to keep that engine, the 1.7 will prolly be disapointing. The 2.0 heads are harder to find because they are better than than the 1.7s. Spark plug position being one of these. Everyone says the 73-74 2.0s are the ones to have.

You can gain a little by putting Euro pistons in and some say possible 1-2 hp gain by changing the air filter set-up. Any real hp gains involve head work, bigger P/C's, and lots-o-cash.

But if your engine is tired, maybe just a rebuild. Once you pull it out watch out because it never ends. Ask me how I know. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)
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bd1308
post Jan 30 2005, 12:05 AM
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QUOTE
Everyone says the 73-74 2.0s are the ones to have.
thats what i got...a 74 914. (June 74 to be exact). it's awesome i love the engine and the car, but it is getting tired...maybe. But I dunno, first i have to fix the 3 inch gash in the front of my car....
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Bruce Allert
post Jan 30 2005, 12:07 AM
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Swaped a 1.7 for a 2.0. All the electrics came with it. Took the old out & put in the 2.0. Had to use the 1.7 HE's tho. They worked just fine. Played with swaping the ECU's & MPS's to see what would happen. Didn't run especially well. The TPS's are different. Air cleaners too...

If the 2.0 hasn't blown yet don't let it. After getting the 2.0 running I was pleasantly surprised by the difference in HP.... no comparison. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beer.gif)

good luck.....

.....b
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bd1308
post Jan 30 2005, 08:24 AM
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(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/icon_bump.gif) what if i put a 1.7 head on a 2.0L engine....I eather want a quieter runnign car or a car that books...I dunno
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TheCabinetmaker
post Jan 30 2005, 08:36 AM
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Don't think that will work, and even if it did, it would be way to restrictive, and take much modification. Just rebuild the 2Litre. Find a set of p&c's, and have the heads redone at the very least.
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Bleyseng
post Jan 30 2005, 10:40 AM
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Can't put 1.7 heads on a 2.0l as the cylinder holes on the heads are too small. They are set up for 90mm cylinders. You can have them bored out, but they also have small valves sooo new 42x38 valves can be put in. Hmm, why not change the plug angle to the 2.0l location too! Well, now you can get these brand new from Jake done like this!

Geoff
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pete-stevers
post Jan 30 2005, 12:56 PM
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And then I suppose there is the "question" why not six..... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)
mucho casho
its enough to drive someone to drink (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beer3.gif)
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bd1308
post Jan 30 2005, 01:23 PM
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yeah i have like no money...well i do but in the form of a 2400 dollar laptop than I am trying to sell. If you want a wide-screen vpr 200A5 for like 800 bucks pm me, i would give anything for a sixer, but 6Gs is alot of money. even 2G is alot, when my engine *works*. honestly people, how hard is it to tap out one of the exhaust studs to 9mm and put a threaded insert in? Or how bout doing the same to a spark plug hole. the plus is actually fine, but the occasional pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop from the underside of the car is annoying, esp when you know what its SUPPOSED to sound like with headers...(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/sad.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/unsure.gif)
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DJsRepS
post Feb 1 2005, 05:35 AM
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The injectors are different color/size and the MPS is set different and or different p/n. I belive most of the other 1.7 Djet parts can be used on the 2.0. If your stripping the motor from a wrecked or rusted tub get it all ECU as well.
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TheCabinetmaker
post Feb 1 2005, 07:35 AM
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QUOTE (DJsRepS @ Feb 1 2005, 05:35 AM)
The injectors are different color/size and the MPS is set different and or different p/n. I belive most of the other 1.7 Djet parts can be used on the 2.0. If your stripping the motor from a wrecked or rusted tub get it all ECU as well.

The 1.7 has several different FI components. Throttle body is different, as is the ecu. Ecu, mps, throttle body, and injectors must all be matched together. Running a 1.7 setup on a 2.0 without some readjusting is a bad idea. It will run too lean and cause the motor to run too hot, and destroy the valve seats.
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Dave_Darling
post Feb 1 2005, 04:02 PM
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QUOTE (bd1308 @ Jan 30 2005, 11:23 AM)
honestly people, how hard is it to tap out one of the exhaust studs to 9mm and put a threaded insert in? Or how bout doing the same to a spark plug hole.

If you can get the drill and tap located correctly, it's not that huge a deal to do the exhaust port. It's kind of a pain lying on your back having the metal shavings fall on your face, though (wear a face shield!!). And you have to have a stop on the drill bit or you'll punch into areas you don't want holes into. The VW Bug shops sell "step-down" exhaust studs, 8mm on the one end and 9mm (or 10mm even) on the other, so that's not too hard to find.

The spark plug hole is a bit tougher. Drilling and tapping oversize isn't really going to do it; I don't think you'll find oversize plugs anywhere... So you're down to installing a helicoil or threaded insert (e.g., TimeSert) to fix it. Keeping metal chips out of the combustion chamber while you drill and tap is very necessary and not always the easiest thing to do. Lots of grease on the tap (and cleaning it every ~1/4 turn) helps. So does opening up the exhaust valve and shooting a bunch of compressed air into the cylinder when you're done. And I've heard of people using shaving cream inside the cylinder to catch the chips, then blowing that out the exhaust valve as above.

But working in that confined space is also a real bitch. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/sad.gif)

--DD
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