Valve adjustment problem w/hydraulic lifters Options

[rjames]

Verifying valves are set properly and I can't adjust one of the exhaust valves past zero lash without tremendous effort. The associated pushrod doesn't budge. None of the others are that way. Do I need to pull the lifter or is there a chance I can run it at zero lash for a few minutes and try adjusting it again without hurting anything?

[messix]

I would pull the lifter and soak it in oil for a while and work the cup before installing

[Cap'n Krusty]

There is a known bleed problem with some of the Febi lifters. I have a bunch of bent valves on my Vanagon to prove it. One style has the wire clip, the other has a snap ring. I forget which design is bad, and I can't get a look at them until first of the week.

The Cap'n.

[rjames]

So don't run the engine, and remove the lifter. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

I probably should have mentioned that I think the cause of this was mis adjusting the valve to begin with. I looked all over for a thread showing how to remove the lifter but couldn't find one. Do I just undo the visible nut on the rocker assembly? Can I do this with the engine in the car?

Do I have to do this? I'm supposed to have the car moved for a new garage door install on Monday. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

[messix]

yes , remove rocker assembly. remove push rod tube retainer springs, push rod tube can be remove then and then reach in with a suitable tool to remove tappet

[rjames]

yes , remove rocker assembly. remove push rod tube retainer springs, push rod tube can be remove then and then reach in with a suitable tool to remove tappet

:/ Looking for a how-to thread now...

[type47]

I think add this step

yes , bring cylinder to TDC, remove rocker assembly. remove push rod tube retainer springs, push rod tube can be remove then and then reach in with a suitable tool to remove tappet

[Drums66]

I would pull the lifter and soak it in oil for a while and work the cup before installing

0 lash
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[rjames]

Put it at TDC for #3 as instructed. (Exhaust #3 is the problem lifter) Got the pushrod out, now what? What's a suitable tool to remove the lifter? I don't think I have anything as long as the pushrod in my tool arsenal. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)
Do I have to remove the wire retaining spring thing to remove the lifter? (Which will require me to take off the adjacent rocker)

[messix]

remove rockers, remover push rod tube, you should be able to pull it out to were you can tilt it down and pull it pull it out. then reach into to lifter bore with reverse snapring tool and pull out.

I did this with the engine in car but exhaust removed.

[Katmanken]

Sometimes you can pull them out with one of those magnets on a stick.

[rjames]

Ok, I got the #3 rocker off and pushrod out easily enough. Do I need to take the other rocker off too in order to move the retainer spring out of the way so I can pull the #3 pushrod tube out enough to remove the lifter? And do I need to be at TDC for that cylinder as well before attempting to remove the rocker?

I have a feeling that if I do have to remove the retaining spring, that getting it back in the right spot and getting the rockers back on is going to be a big pita.

Thanks for the continued help everyone. Hoping this isn't anything more than a stuck lifter or one that needs replacing and not something worse that requires an engine tear down.

[Nate]

No. You actually don't need to remove the rocker arms at all to remove the push rod tube retaining spring. By the same token, you can put all the rocker arm assemblies in, then do your valve adjustment, then lastly put the push rod tube retaining spring back in so it's not in your way during the process. you do want to make sure the retaining spring is not binding or contacting the rocker arms or push rods at all once you put it back in.

[rjames]

No. You actually don't need to remove the rocker arms at all to remove the push rod tube retaining spring. By the same token, you can put all the rocker arm assemblies in, then do your valve adjustment, then lastly put the push rod tube retaining spring back in so it's not in your way during the process. you do want to make sure the retaining spring is not binding or contacting the rocker arms or push rods at all once you put it back in.

This is good to know. I couldn't see how to remove the retaining spring without removing both pairs of rockers, but knowing it's possible, I'll play with it. The retaining spring felt like it was fairly easy to bend out of shape, so I didn't fool with it too much. Plus I can't hardly see what I'm doing with the heat exchanger in the way. I don't want to remove the exchanger as I've been down the stripped exhaust route before and have reason to believe I'll be down that road again if I remove the exchanger.

[rjames]

Double post

[rjames]

For Fuchs sake. 2 hours trying to remove a damned pushrod tube only to dent and mark it up horribly. It spins but moves maybe 1mm. Wtf?!! I'd just break the thing in half but I'm afraid it wouldn't do me any good. Why is every job on these cars worse than the last?

-Edit-
Finally got it out by sticking a socket extension down the tube so as not to completely crush it with the vice grips. Wish I had done that to begin with.
I also got the lifter out.

All parts look good, and no abnormal wear. Cleaned it up I will install tonight it's soaking in oil but I'm skeptical as to if that does anything at all besides coating the outside with oil. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)
There's no way to get them fully or even partially pumped up after assembly that I can see as doing so requires opening the check valve which when assembled, you can't access. If you pump them up before fully assembling you can't compress them in order to put the retaining spring on.

Does anyone know what kind of lifter this is? I'd love to look up the manufacturer's recommendations.