Motor Assembly |
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Motor Assembly |
Bulldog9 |
Nov 10 2014, 09:01 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 705 Joined: 21-August 13 From: United States Member No.: 16,283 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
The time has come to start assembling the motor. I painted the tins over the weekend and, all that is left to paint is the fan assembly. 2 years of strip, clean condition paint......... I am done...
I will be cleaning up the garage over the Holiday and weekend and start assembling the motor this weekend or next week. Its been a long 2 years gathering all this, and is hard to believe it is almost time. I will be checking in and asking for advice on the engine build in this thread as my motor is nearly identical to the 914. I have TWO questions at this point, 1. I seem to have misplaced the new recommended list of engine case and sealants. Does anyone have this? 2. It is time to decide if I will use the Steel backed silverline (made in Mexico) bearings, or the non steel backed Mahle (looks to be Brazil). Yeah, I know there are a million opinions on this, and I plan to go with the steel backed at this point, but figured I'd ask. Appreciate any advice here, is my first Type 4 build. THANKS! |
Bulldog9 |
Dec 19 2014, 04:18 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 705 Joined: 21-August 13 From: United States Member No.: 16,283 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
'cue sinister music'
I'm almost ready to take on the 'valvetrain' geometry nightmare. I'm hoping to borrow a dial gauge and mount from a local 914 guy this weekend, and I'm a bit nervous. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif) I've tried to work through Jakes 8 page instructions but it is overwhelming. Anybody have a laymans guide? AKA as accurate but simpler? Not a ding on the article, but my ability to concentrate ;-) Because this is my first time doing this and I know there will be a LOT of turning turning turning, I'm wondering if I just put a piston in cyls 1 & 2 without rings, then mock up the jugs with spacer and snug up the heads if this will make the job easier and be BETTER for the rings and cyls. They are the Keith black floating wrist pins so this is an easy task. I'm wondering if I just put a piston in cyls 1 & 2 without rings, then mock up the jugs with spacer and snug up the heads if this will make the job easier and be BETTER for the rings and cyls. They are the Keith black floating wrist pins so this is an easy task. Also realized that the timing mark is way before TDC..... The true TDC is about 26.5 degrees after. So I'm scratching my head and then open some books to discover that the 'TIMING MARK' IS 27 degrees before TDC.... Everything is mating up nicely and I confirmed that BOTH valves are completely closed when at TDC. |
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