Motor Assembly Options

[Bulldog9]

The time has come to start assembling the motor. I painted the tins over the weekend and, all that is left to paint is the fan assembly. 2 years of strip, clean condition paint......... I am done...

I will be cleaning up the garage over the Holiday and weekend and start assembling the motor this weekend or next week.

Its been a long 2 years gathering all this, and is hard to believe it is almost time. I will be checking in and asking for advice on the engine build in this thread as my motor is nearly identical to the 914.

I have TWO questions at this point,

1. I seem to have misplaced the new recommended list of engine case and sealants. Does anyone have this?

2. It is time to decide if I will use the Steel backed silverline (made in Mexico) bearings, or the non steel backed Mahle (looks to be Brazil). Yeah, I know there are a million opinions on this, and I plan to go with the steel backed at this point, but figured I'd ask.


Appreciate any advice here, is my first Type 4 build. THANKS!

[Dave_Darling]

For a Web cam, stick with Web lifters. I've never thought the idea of a hole in the wear surface of a lifter was that good an idea anyway (the "lube a lobe", as I understand it, has an oil hole on the face of the lifter). You really want to make sure the cam and lifters are compatible with each other.

--DD

[cary]

Here's the sealant kit.
http://type4store.com/products/sealants/en...ealant-kit.html

I used the original list of sealants and have no leaks. These are supposed to be better. Maybe Jake will chime in on which to use where.

[76-914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Jake's sealant kit was about $70 and worth it. No leaks + there is plenty left over which I have used on other projects several times over the past 2 years. Just keep the extra in a nice cool environment. BTW, a tube of silicone will last a few years if stored in the fridge!

[stugray]

I also used Jakes sealant kit and now use some of that stuff all the time.

"SCAT Centerpull Linkage" I had a brand new one of these and tossed it aside (still have it, but cut the arms off the air filter brackets.)
Buy the Tangerine racing linkage and never look back.

And you dont mention replacing all of the case galley plugs with threaded plugs.

[McMark]

For a Web cam, stick with Web lifters. I've never thought the idea of a hole in the wear surface of a lifter was that good an idea anyway (the "lube a lobe", as I understand it, has an oil hole on the face of the lifter). You really want to make sure the cam and lifters are compatible with each other.

--DD

This is one of the anxiety-decisions of building a motor. I think there are a lot of motors out there with Lube-A-Lobe lifters on WebCams. I like the idea of the lubing hole. But then again, there are a lot more WebCams on WebCam lifters out there and the extra lube may be irrelevant.

[Kansas 914]

Buy the Tangerine racing linkage and never look back.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Never be out of sync again!

[Bulldog9]

Thanks for the feedback.

I'm still looking for the list of 'what goo goes where.' When I bought my stuff, it was the 'blackout' period when the type 4 store was in transition, so I diddnt buy it from them, but got 2-3 of the items individually. Dont want to spend the $ just to get the list unnecessarily. PM or e-mail works too, if proprietary issues are a concern.

I will eventually go to Tangerine system, or synclink, or something. I've got a few mods to the Scat to try out, and at this point, until the car comes back from the body shop and final bill there, I need to stick with my prior purchases. The scat doesnt use the air cleaners as a pivotpoint, it is a center/bellhousing/case center mount. Not as smooth as the Tangerine, but with a few mods will do for now.

On the Lubalobe VS Webcam, my supplier (Jorge at EMW) and I had a long discussion about this, his rec for the cam was the lubealobe over the webcams, not sure why. From what I've read only the double spring super heavy valve spring rates create a problem with the lifters. The Hoffman heads/springs and swivel head adjusters make lube a lobe a good choice, or at least that is what I remember us discussing last year.

There are a few areas of my build I wish I could have gone 'up' but there has to be a limit, especially when you are doing EVERYTHING" at the same time. I tried to go middle to good/and balance economy on a few things.

Phase 2, in a few years, or an unexpected $2K in my lap will bring the following:

- Air Intake - http://dailycaller.com/2014/08/08/isis-thr...he-white-house/

LOL EDIT, I was writing an article on genocide prevention, pasted the wrong link (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) Here is the right link. http://www.csp-shop.com/cgi-bin/cshop2/fro...mp;artnr=19931b

- Tangerine Carb Linkage

- Upgraded Ignition

[wndsnd]

One more thumbs up for the Tangerine Linkage kit from me.

It transformed my car from being undrivable (that and a few other fixes), to being a hellcat.

It really is that good.

John

[G e o r g e]

- Air Intake - http://www.csp-shop.com/cgi-bin/cshop2/fro...mp;artnr=19931b

What or how would this benefit the engine? It would appear to me to give you less area of fresh air being drawn into your intake compared to tall carb filters.

[pilothyer]

Thanks for the feedback.

I'm still looking for the list of 'what goo goes where.' When I bought my stuff, it was the 'blackout' period when the type 4 store was in transition, so I diddnt buy it from them, but got 2-3 of the items individually. Dont want to spend the $ just to get the list unnecessarily. PM or e-mail works too, if proprietary issues are a concern.

I will eventually go to Tangerine system, or synclink, or something. I've got a few mods to the Scat to try out, and at this point, until the car comes back from the body shop and final bill there, I need to stick with my prior purchases. The scat doesnt use the air cleaners as a pivotpoint, it is a center/bellhousing/case center mount. Not as smooth as the Tangerine, but with a few mods will do for now.

On the Lubalobe VS Webcam, my supplier (Jorge at EMW) and I had a long discussion about this, his rec for the cam was the lubealobe over the webcams, not sure why. From what I've read only the double spring super heavy valve spring rates create a problem with the lifters. The Hoffman heads/springs and swivel head adjusters make lube a lobe a good choice, or at least that is what I remember us discussing last year.

There are a few areas of my build I wish I could have gone 'up' but there has to be a limit, especially when you are doing EVERYTHING" at the same time. I tried to go middle to good/and balance economy on a few things.

Phase 2, in a few years, or an unexpected $2K in my lap will bring the following:

- Air Intake - http://dailycaller.com/2014/08/08/isis-thr...he-white-house/

LOL EDIT, I was writing an article on genocide prevention, pasted the wrong link (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) Here is the right link. http://www.csp-shop.com/cgi-bin/cshop2/fro...mp;artnr=19931b

- Tangerine Carb Linkage

- Upgraded Ignition

 ENGINE_CASE_SEALANTS.rtf ( 1.89k ) Number of downloads: 54

[Bulldog9]

thanks pilothyer

[Bulldog9]

Before I take the trans/diff off the engine stand, I want to refill with proper oil. Lots of options, but havent even thought about this till now.... duh

Also, I plan on using the brad penn break in oil, but will likely need to buy another quart for use during assembly. Is this a good option as an assembly oil, or should I use something else?

Details details....

[Cap'n Krusty]

I don't think you'll need an extra quart. You might use a 1/4 c in assembly. As for the lifters, ALWAYS use cam and lifters from the SAME manufacturer.

The Cap'n

[Bulldog9]

I don't think you'll need an extra quart. You might use a 1/4 c in assembly. As for the lifters, ALWAYS use cam and lifters from the SAME manufacturer.

The Cap'n

Thanks. I just sent an e-mail to EMW to double check what brand the cam is. I thought it was a webcam, but I dont know. I do know that it is EMW's G grind Cam, and he matched the lifters to it. I've been buying the parts over the last 18 months, so memory is fuzzy. Want to do it right the first time.

[stugray]

Here is a cut & paste from one of my previous posts regarding engine startup.
keep these steps in mind as you build the engine and get ready to crank it.

Here is some help for first time engine startup:

1- Dont install the pushrods (cranking to prime with pushrods installed will wipe away the cam lube you put on the cam & lifters)
2 - remove the sparkplugs
3 - install a mechanical oil pressure gauge if you have one.
4 - do NOT fill the oil filter with oil before installation
5 - crank the engine until oil pressure peaks then keep cranking for as long as you are comfortable to get oil through the whole system. (Dont overheat the starter - ~10 seconds at a time, then cool off)
6 - check oil and top off if required
7 - reinstall pushrods & set valve lash (with Jakes pushrods, cold lash is zero)
8 - reinstall spark plugs
9 - proceed with engine first startup & follow Jakes cam break-in instructions

[Bulldog9]

This is golden, the basic info that only comes through experience. thanks.

Here is a cut & paste from one of my previous posts regarding engine startup.
keep these steps in mind as you build the engine and get ready to crank it.

Here is some help for first time engine startup:

1- Dont install the pushrods (cranking to prime with pushrods installed will wipe away the cam lube you put on the cam & lifters)
2 - remove the sparkplugs
3 - install a mechanical oil pressure gauge if you have one.
4 - do NOT fill the oil filter with oil before installation
5 - crank the engine until oil pressure peaks then keep cranking for as long as you are comfortable to get oil through the whole system. (Dont overheat the starter - ~10 seconds at a time, then cool off)
6 - check oil and top off if required
7 - reinstall pushrods & set valve lash (with Jakes pushrods, cold lash is zero)
8 - reinstall spark plugs
9 - proceed with engine first startup & follow Jakes cam break-in instructions

[Bulldog9]

Doing some test fitting and reassembly of a few things, and making sure I have what I need. I really do not remember pulling the alternator off but I think this is right. Just seems a bit flimsy. I know this is for a 912E, so a few differences, but wanted to check here. I also know the bottom of the arm attaches to the exhaust manifold, not sure how that will work out with the Tangerine Exhaust, but not a big deal.

Just two bolts, top & bottom, and only on the front of the alternator? Is something missing? I had a small 3" bracket in the bag with the alt bolts and top bracket, but cant see where I would use it.

[Bulldog9]

Front view.

[wndsrfr]

2. It is time to decide if I will use the Steel backed silverline (made in Mexico) bearings, or the non steel backed Mahle (looks to be Brazil). Yeah, I know there are a million opinions on this, and I plan to go with the steel backed at this point, but figured I'd ask.


Appreciate any advice here, is my first Type 4 build. THANKS!

Steve....looks like you're past this point, but I used the Silverline bearings on my last rebuild and have got excellent oil pressure--a change from two prior rebuilds. Idles at 1100 rpm and 20 psi hot, goes to 50 psi after 2200rpm with Brad Penn 20W50.

IIRC the 3 inch bracket spans the bottom alternator bolt from front to back...mine broke and I had to weld it up.....