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> "Front main" seal on a /6, Any tips, traps or suggestions?
Rusty
post Feb 1 2005, 09:46 PM
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Okay... I've got a severe leak from the front main of the /6.

I don't have a ATV jack, and not sure where I can borrow one. Anyone have an alternative (safe) method to R&R the drivetrain?

Also, as long as I'm in there, what else should I check? I plan on replacing & tensioning the belt while I'm in there, too.

Any traps I might fall into... except DWD? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)

-Rusty (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smoke.gif)
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Sammy
post Feb 1 2005, 11:53 PM
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Ceck the gasket on the little cover plate for the intermediate shaft, make sure you keep the same thickness of gasket on it.

BTW, them pulley bolts can be real tight. No, scratch that. They can be real friggin tight!
Prolly have to lock the flywheel with a tool unless you have a mean impact gun.

Check your oil pressure sender for leakage while you gots her out.
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Trekkor
post Feb 2 2005, 12:07 AM
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For the seal... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif)

R&R. I got that. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif)
We used a low profile furniture dolly on a floor jack.
You can place the dolly forward as the weight is all there.

Put a piece of lumber ( 2x6 ) on a floor jack with the dolly on top of it. The dolly will pick up the motor and trans together. Good span and the lift is well balanced.

Once the drive train is on the ground tilt the whole thing foward and slide out the jack and lumber and you can wheel the goods anywhere you want.

Hope this works for you. You may already know that the carbs need to come off or the axles will hang up when you try and slide it all out. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)

KT
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Rusty
post Feb 2 2005, 08:32 AM
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QUOTE (Sammy @ Feb 2 2005, 12:53 AM)
Ceck the gasket on the little cover plate for the intermediate shaft, make sure you keep the same thickness of gasket on it.

BTW, them pulley bolts can be real tight. No, scratch that. They can be real friggin tight!
Prolly have to lock the flywheel with a tool unless you have a mean impact gun.

Check your oil pressure sender for leakage while you gots her out.

Good point on the oil pressure sender. I've got a new one and new gauge module. It's a great time to do that.

Lock the flywheel? Hmmm, that means splitting the engine/transmission. I'd hoped to avoid that.

I don't want to rip the whole engine apart begin a rebuild by replacing one seal... but anything else I should be looking at?

-Rusty (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smoke.gif)

P.S. Hey Trekkor... can your method be done with one person?
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Trekkor
post Feb 2 2005, 09:01 AM
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You can do it solo if you want. Getting it balanced is the key.

We had the jack too far back towards the trans, so having two people was good. Still got it installed in an hour (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)

KT
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Sammy
post Feb 2 2005, 09:10 AM
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You can get one of those ATV jacks for around $45 nowadays (Kragen, pep boys), pretty cheeep considering how easy they make the job . Lots cheeeeper than getting hurt or breaking sumthin.
I'm so spoiled by mine I wouldn't think of dropping my engine without it.
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Trekkor
post Feb 2 2005, 09:18 AM
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(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/agree.gif)

That would be *best*. Don't they include straps as well?

KT
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Eric_Shea
post Feb 2 2005, 09:35 AM
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Another one bites the dust. We should talk to the UN about funding a cure. So far there seems to be no remedy for DWD.

As "Miles" states... "Drop the engine and turn to page one of the 914club 10,000 step program."
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Rusty
post Feb 2 2005, 10:37 AM
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Oh no. Hell no. This won't be DWD... but if there are some preventative things I can do that will help me avoid dropping the engine again in the next 6 months or a year - then I'm all over that.

-Rusty (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smoke.gif)
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rhaas
post Feb 2 2005, 12:15 PM
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if the pulley bolt is real tight, you can put the transmission into a high gear like 5th, and set the parking brake. this is normally enough to lock the motor and you can get the bolt out.
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Eric_Shea
post Feb 2 2005, 01:35 PM
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Topic just came up in another thread...

Get new soft lines for your rear brakes and change those while the engine is out. Seriously. Well worth the $30.00 as insurance. Your car is now officially 35 years old.

If you don't drive it often, take the opp. to remove the fuel pump and blow a can of brake cleaner through it
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J P Stein
post Feb 2 2005, 02:14 PM
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Tips:

That motor is taller than you think.....about 24 inches with the carbs on(no aircleaner). Add "lifting gear" 6-8 inches and you need 30-32 inches under the rear valence.....I go to 34 and I like the car level.

The ATV lifts are cheep insurance...specially if you're under there by your self. As Sammy said (in a moment of licidity) I wouldn't use anything else, it'll spoil you rotten.

I use a dolly with casters to support the engine....you need some sort of dolly. Mine has 2 on edge 2 X 4s with a cutout
to clear the oil cooler tube. The 2 X 4s support the motor at the cam towers.....wait, there's more (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)

The ATV lifts have about 14 inches lift. With the car that high you'll come about 10-12 short of the engine. You'll neeed a box or blocks under your dolly to reach it.

When you lower the motor, drop it down about 13 inches and block the dolly, pull the ATV lift & big box out, remove the 10 inch box, slide the ATV lift back in, pick the dolly and drop the motor to the floor.

All this is a PITA, eh?....but it is safe. This set-up is stable....you could dance on the motor without it tipping.
It's still a good idea to have someone else there to report what went wrong. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/w00t.gif)

Here's a lousy pic or the dolly.


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J P Stein
post Feb 2 2005, 02:18 PM
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Hay, that was a good pic....fergot I had it.
Box on dolly/lift....nuther i fergot.


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J P Stein
post Feb 2 2005, 02:19 PM
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Engine on dolly


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Rusty
post Feb 2 2005, 03:37 PM
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Nice pictures, JP.

Forgive my ignorance. What is the notch for on your platform?

-Rusty (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smoke.gif)
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Eric_Shea
post Feb 2 2005, 03:53 PM
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Oel Cooler?
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J P Stein
post Feb 2 2005, 06:06 PM
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QUOTE (J P Stein @ Feb 2 2005, 12:14 PM)
Mine has 2 on edge 2 X 4s with a cutout
to clear the oil cooler tube. The 2 X 4s support the motor at the cam towers.....wait, there's more (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)

hummm.
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Rusty
post Feb 2 2005, 07:06 PM
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More? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif)
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Cap'n Krusty
post Feb 2 2005, 08:36 PM
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I REALLY don't want to tell you all this, but the odds are heavily against the leak being the seal. In nearly every engine I've seen with pulley leaks (in 32+ years), it's been the o-ring on the #8 main bearing. The seal, BTW, is installed IN the bearing, and the bearing is installed in the case. Granted, there are hose and fitting leaks, pressure and temp sender leaks, and occasionally leaks at the counter shaft gasket, but leaks from behind the pulley are rarely the seal. BTW, this is especially true for the light alloy cases. The fix is a case split, and a quality engine gasket set. The Cap'n
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J P Stein
post Feb 2 2005, 08:40 PM
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QUOTE (Cap'n Krusty @ Feb 2 2005, 06:36 PM)
I REALLY don't want to tell you all this, but the odds are heavily against the leak being the seal. In nearly every engine I've seen with pulley leaks (in 32+ years), it's been the o-ring on the #8 main bearing. The seal, BTW, is installed IN the bearing, and the bearing is installed in the case. Granted, there are hose and fitting leaks, pressure and temp sender leaks, and occasionally leaks at the counter shaft gasket, but leaks from behind the pulley are rarely the seal. BTW, this is especially true for the light alloy cases. The fix is a case split, and a quality engine gasket set. The Cap'n

Ayup, that's where mine's at. I didn't put case sealer on #8....shitfuck.
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