Any successful radiator in engine compartment conversions?, Or other than front trunk installs? Options

[Mueller]

I know this had been tried 7+ years ago, I was wondering if since then has anyone done a watercooled conversion and not put the radiator in the front trunk?

[76-914]

Robert (rotary914) has. However, there is lots of free area with that tiny engine.

[shoguneagle]

Master Mueller's "engineering mind" is back hard at it just as he never left. Wonder what creations are being planned????? Hope he never talks to the great Doc Evil and others; it will cost me money since I probably will want to build it.

Steve Hurt

[Mueller]

Master Mueller's "engineering mind" is back hard at it just as he never left. Wonder what creations are being planned????? Hope he never talks to the great Doc Evil and others; it will cost me money since I probably will want to build it.

Steve Hurt

Straying from the promise to the wife "I'll keep this one stock!"

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Just seeing what people smarter than me have come up with...not too difficult to achieve that!

[effutuo101]

My 2.5 suby turbo goes up to get the final brackets and radiator made next week.
We will see what he says, but, with the shelf out, it looks like enough room for a dual core wide radiator with 4x12 inch fans. I am concerned as California gets a bit warm.
I will let you know!

[d914]

jeep cherokee rad is like 10 x 36 and they make all AL versions.. shelf out , three fans mounted low I bet would work... but then again Bigkat shakes his head a lot at my ideas.....

[GeorgeRud]

I always thought that using two small radiators in some IMSA. Style rear fender flares would be nice on a V8 conversion. Not subtle, but should have enough cooling capacity. I always liked the look of that Altec Lansing racer.

[mepstein]

I would love for the radiator to work in the engine compartment but logic says no. Heat from engine and little airflow work against it. Do you know of any production mid or rear engine car that makes it work- I dont. Again, I'm on your side. If I didn't feel it absolutely neccesary to mount the oil cooler on my gt build or the rad on my suby build up front, I wouldn't.

[Chris914n6]

^^ Countach and Diablo.

GT engine lid and some scoops to increase airflow when you are moving. Fan tech has gotten a lot better this past decade. Spal 14" fans to 1840cfm. Max to fit under the lid 16" fan 2024 or 2467cfm ($$$).

Can't find my notes but iirc mine's about 2600cfm for both and my break even point is around 30mph.

Run an all aluminum engine... they dissipate heat better and they need to run hotter than old iron.

[DBCooper]

Uh huh, that's the theory....

[effutuo101]

So, running an air cooled big 6 gets enough air. Why wouldn't a large 4 get enough with fans?
Inquiring minds want to know.

[Dave_Darling]

It's also been done with an N/A Scooby motor. There are photos around here somewhere. Not sure what happened after the first few months with it, though.

--DD

[Mueller]

So, running an air cooled big 6 gets enough air. Why wouldn't a large 4 get enough with fans?
Inquiring minds want to know.

Exactly, water is a more efficient medium than air so if that compartment can shed 300hp worth of an air cooled* 3.6 it seems that same space can shed the heat from a 300hp 4 or 6 water cooled motor

*anyone have the numbers how much cooling is really done by the oil?

[thelogo]

I always though a rear spoiler with a radiator enclosed would be the way to go but

I think the way a boxster does the dual radiator s in the front corners of the bumper is

Brilliant

And I would never hack up my front truck for water cooling , just stupid

[r_towle]

Mike, don't do it.
Keep it aircooled and drive it a lot sooner.

[veekry9]

https://www.google.ca/search?q=f1+chassis&a...f-e%3B960%3B465

https://www.google.ca/search?q=f1+mid+mount...F%3B1680%3B1260

A new way to slice bread.

Thermal conductivity of oil and water are known constants.
Squirting oil to the bottom of pistons and tops of cylinder heads are effective methods.
Air and oil cooled,a lot of oil,a lot of surface area.


Do we have to put the rads up front?
Making them fit in the middle down low will require some different approaches.

[veekry9]

The fan is a centrifugal pump, just like any centrifugal water pump and it's power consumption is directly related to the mass of fluid it is moving. If you throttle the fluid, it'll use less power.
Simplest solution that occurs to me is to use the flaps in the fan outlet housing tin to throttle the flow with a manual throttle cable that can be locked. Disconnect the thermostat bellows (I'm guessing that you've already done that to maximize the flow) and rig the throttle cable into the cabin somewhere handy between the seats. That way you can monitor head temp when driving on the street and not overheat by manually opening the flow when you want.
If you've got a thermostat set up in your oil cooler plumbing it'll not open 'til 180F, so oil is going to warm up just as fast as without it, but you could shortcut the plumbing there to eliminate the flow to the front cooler without having to remove it.
All that said, I'm concerned that trying to hurry up the warming process you may put stresses on the engine castings that may bring you grief......tread carefully!

Moving a lot of air for the aircooled.
Adding exchangers to cool the extra volume of oil with the associated weight.
Being able to dissipate the heat of a high compression n/a or turbo engine reliably is it.
50 % efficiency of a 200hp engine means cooling 200hp of heat.

[mgp4591]

Interesting side rad setup... would you have that much room on the sides and still keep all the rear trunk area? Maybe the rads would have some ducting to direct the airflow and you could run them flatter in the compartment to save room? I'm going with the upfront design but laying down at an angle but I'll definitely look into this setup for a turbo intercooler and oil cooler solution. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[veekry9]

Step to the left.
Step to the right.

[veekry9]

Not the first.