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> Starter or ignition switch, Is my ignition or starter going out?
brooks944
post Dec 14 2014, 01:06 PM
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My 75 is finally home and seems to be running fine with still a bunch of body and suspension work to do. It was hard to start but now it starts after about three tries. But sometimes it won't turn over at all. Not a battery problem and it seems if I pull the key a little while starting it will catch. Is this a starter issue or ignition switch? My preference would be the cheapest of the two...

Thanks,
Rick
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wndsrfr
post Dec 14 2014, 01:14 PM
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QUOTE(brooks944 @ Dec 14 2014, 11:06 AM) *

My 75 is finally home and seems to be running fine with still a bunch of body and suspension work to do. It was hard to start but now it starts after about three tries. But sometimes it won't turn over at all. Not a battery problem and it seems if I pull the key a little while starting it will catch. Is this a starter issue or ignition switch? My preference would be the cheapest of the two...

Thanks,
Rick

most likely it's the switch But do a search on ford relay .... do yourself a favor and put in the relay....
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AvalonFal
post Dec 14 2014, 02:13 PM
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Just try to get a decently made relay. I bought a couple of China made relays recently that were both toast right out of the boxes.
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brooks944
post Dec 14 2014, 03:10 PM
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Tanks guys. What is the ford relay?
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914Mike
post Dec 14 2014, 07:25 PM
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QUOTE(brooks944 @ Dec 14 2014, 02:10 PM) *

Tanks guys. What is the ford relay?


That's a reference to a "Hot Start Relay" Like the one here:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperC...H_pg1.htm#item4

A relay simply switches a heavy load (like the starter solenoid) with a smaller signal. That means that less current flows through your key switch so it should last longer.* It also means that you can make the wires that trigger the starter solenoid much shorter, so more juice gets to the solenoid, eliminating the sometimes huge voltage drop that occurs when you ask the whole current to travel from the battery, up to the key switch and then back to the starter solenoid.

Any 12V relay designed for 30A or more will work, Ford is often quoted, because back in the day that was the only one people knew about. I've read that the Ford relay actually draws as much current as the starter solenoid, so isn't actually saving your key switch like a Bosch relay that draws a fraction of that will.

* Electronics whizzes will tell you that the current is not actually the problem that causes the switch to burn out, it's when you turn the switch from "Start" back to "On" that causes a big arc to burn the contact in the switch, and that you should use a diode to prevent the arc. A relay will cause a much smaller arc than the starter solenoid does, so it does save the life of your switch...
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Harpo
post Dec 14 2014, 07:27 PM
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A few of our sponsors sell a relay with all of the wires to hook up to the appropriate components. McMark & pelican to name a few.

David
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76-914
post Dec 14 2014, 08:50 PM
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Might be because the Ford solenoid requires about 1/2 the V to open. 3.8v IIRC.
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Rand
post Dec 15 2014, 03:43 PM
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Relays aren't necessary. That's what the starter solenoid is after all. But I give, all the people say how you need to offload the current from the starter switch, yada yada yada. I don't care what camp you subscribe to, I would just plead that you find the REAL problem before just putting a band aid relay over it.
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jarred
post Jan 14 2015, 02:11 PM
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I agree with Rand. If the switch itself isn't making contact, it isn't going to work with a relay either. You don't have to replace the whole ignition. The switch itself has a replaceable plastic component, the back-end, that wears or breaks and can be replaced. I got my from a local generic auto supply for less than $20.
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ThePaintedMan
post Jan 14 2015, 02:54 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) too. Why do we always suggest people try band-aid solutions then think a little harder about why someone is having an issue to begin with?

Start at the main reason : most of the components on the car are probably 40+ years old now. Start by replacing those first - it doesn't cost as much as you think.

-New ground strap from the battery to the chassis and the transmission to the chassis.
-Then consider replacing the (likely) 40 year old ignition switch made from plastic.

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Bob L.
post Jan 14 2015, 03:54 PM
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Sounds like an ignition switch issue, probably the electric portion. They seem to crack, making them temperamental. Possibly the mechanical part. There is a prong that gets twisted backward and won't turn the electric part far enough.
Good luck!
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brooks944
post Jan 14 2015, 04:06 PM
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changed the switch, that was the problem. Lot of time for a novice to change, especially for a $5.00 part, but since I don't count my labor a pretty good investment!

Thanks guys,
Rick
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