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> D_jet trouble shooting question - car is home, journey continues, June, update- no more problem-- the fix was simple....
Larmo63
post Dec 29 2014, 10:41 PM
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Yes, engine is already built with Webers in mind. Proper lift cam has been fitted.
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Dave_Darling
post Dec 29 2014, 10:49 PM
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Should be fun! And if you already know Webers and don't know D-jet, the decision sounds pretty simple...

--DD
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DRPHIL914
post Jan 3 2015, 05:10 PM
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Well back to the matter at hand..
Went to go drive the car today--- would not start! Finally did but missing really bad WTF! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) Drove it just a few days ago and ran fine???? This is NOT and MPS or air temp sensor issue but what the hell is it??? I mean why the hell can I not park this car for more than 2 days and come back to drive it? Really. What would cause it ?
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DRPHIL914
post Jan 3 2015, 05:19 PM
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Put about 60 miles on it just 2 days ago. Was running and idling perfectly when I pulled into the garage. Must have been just a coincidence that I replaced that temp sensor and the car ran after that. Must be a short in the harness connection somewhere and upon moving the wires it worked? And I have no idea where to start looking again. Grounds are tight. But that's what it acts like, a bad ground or something.
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DRPHIL914
post Jan 3 2015, 05:19 PM
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Put about 60 miles on it just 2 days ago. Was running and idling perfectly when I pulled into the garage. Must have been just a coincidence that I replaced that temp sensor and the car ran after that. Must be a short in the harness connection somewhere and upon moving the wires it worked? And I have no idea where to start looking again. Grounds are tight. But that's what it acts like, a bad ground or something.
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r_towle
post Jan 3 2015, 06:43 PM
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Injector grounds?
Distributor advance plate ground?
Coil bouncing around?
Wiring near the coil, near the sensor you touched?
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DRPHIL914
post Jan 3 2015, 10:36 PM
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QUOTE( @ Jan 3 2015, 07:43 PM) *

Injector grounds?
Distributor advance plate ground?
Coil bouncing around?
Wiring near the coil, near the sensor you touched?

1. Double checked them. They are connected
2. Coil is fairly new, was having this problem before replacing coil, appears not to have mattered. I did recheck all of the connectors.
3. Not sure what you mean. It's mounted tightly. Voltage is not bouncing.
4. Rechecked wires and connections.

Remember, car was running fine and was parked, nothing touched, sat for 2 days. Last time it sat for 4-5 days and started right off no issue.
It's not cold.out, it's about 70 degrees, very humid though.
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rhodyguy
post Jan 4 2015, 09:27 AM
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Remembered from long ago....I think Dave darling had a problem similar issue. Itwas traced down by brad r and the issue was the routing of the wiring for the mps. Interference from a different signal source? See if Dave remembers this. Are you currently using the mps I sent you?
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Dave_Darling
post Jan 4 2015, 11:40 AM
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Nope, not I.

--DD
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DRPHIL914
post Jan 4 2015, 05:58 PM
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QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Jan 4 2015, 10:27 AM) *

Remembered from long ago....I think Dave darling had a problem similar issue. Itwas traced down by brad r and the issue was the routing of the wiring for the mps. Interference from a different signal source? See if Dave remembers this. Are you currently using the mps I sent you?


No . I have 2 that I wanted to test I was going to do that yesterday. But since car won't start I cant do much. Tomorrow I'm going to go back thru checking the electrical end starting with spark/coil/plug wires etc. I've already gone thru the f.i. harness. I did make sure the mps wire is not next to the spark plug wire and interfering.
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DRPHIL914
post Jan 24 2015, 12:53 PM
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Last week end I went to try get workingrightthe car, before doing anything I decided to see if it would start at all - started and ran like there was never an issue. So Monday it ran fine and so I finally did the deep tuna can sump and new billet taco plate and sensors replacement with full oil change etc. Drove it the next day ran perfect.
Now those days it was @65-70 degrees.
NOW- fast forward to today. I come out this morning , it's 40 degrees out, it barely starts, very rough won't stay running or idle with out feathering the pedal . If I reved it it almost ran smooth and idle for 10 to 15 second then die.. trying to restart it it was like it was flooded - no go. Cranked but no fire.
SO I leave to run and the honey do list and garbage run etc. Come back just a few minutes ago. Now its 60 degrees out. --- a friend stops over and I tell him about what's going on with it. So I get in the car to show him how bad it is to get it to start and What the heck? /$^!^#&#
It fires right up! Like perfect no skip miss or other issue at all!!!!!

I HAVE A CRAZY PSYCHO SPLIT PERSONALITY CAR!!!

what are my options here?
Won't do any good to test anything else now it's idling perfect as I speak. A/F meter reads 11.5 fuel pressure 29,
Either I have a bad cold star valve that floods it out when cold, or ther is a short somewhere that is intermittant.

I am befuddled
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mepstein
post Jan 24 2015, 02:04 PM
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It's a snowbird car. Send it to FL for the winter.
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76-914
post Jan 24 2015, 04:37 PM
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Is the plug on the backside of the dizzy clicked into place. The rubber boot can impede with that snapping into place. Also, check the center pin (coil) on the inside of your dist cap to see how much wear it has. It wears down and makes intermittent contact. BTW, just because it moves in & out when pressed doesn't mean it is making contact.
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JeffBowlsby
post Jan 24 2015, 08:15 PM
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Could it be an electrical connection? Harness issue? Corroded wire terminals or cracked/broken wires?
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DRPHIL914
post Jan 24 2015, 08:56 PM
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QUOTE(Jeff Bowlsby @ Jan 24 2015, 09:15 PM) *

Could it be an electrical connection? Harness issue? Corroded wire terminals or cracked/broken wires?

Jeff,
To me it acts like a short or bad connection, like the f.i. Grounds are not tight I once had one come off and thats what it felt like. But it's not that. And the harness I got new from you 2 years ago and my mechanic when thru each circuit last month and double tested every one of them and I'd course at that time we found the bad mps which we swapped out and it ran fine. It didn't do its little trick until I got it home. Did that before I took it over and after I got home a week later.
new optima battery no corrosion. I have not found any cracked or broken wires.
After this started I replaced the circuit board and rear relay board. I guess it was not those as I did not get rid of the issue.
I was thinking it could be a plug wire or the cap. I've heard ts of that happening so I might swap those out and see.
right now I am sitting in it in the driveway. Perfect idle at about 1000, no hesitation at all. It's about 45 out . Will be interesting to see if it fires up in the morning. But while it's running I'm going for a short drive now . (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

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DRPHIL914
post Jan 26 2015, 01:40 PM
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started this morning- so i drove it to work!(25 miles each way), as long as the rain stays away im going to driv it to work aleast 3x a week until it decides not to start or gives me fits. going to keep fiddling around until i figure out what the issue is.
so far since installing the tuna can and the nwe oil temp sensor and taco plate no leaks - but the VDO sender and the nitrous gauge seem to work fine together,- temp gauge reads almost exactly waht the dips stick thermometer reads.
seems like this car still runs a bit hot. The air guides for under the car are not there. timing and advance are right on, not running lean. Does not go into dangerous levels but seems like at 50 degrees it would not go over 210 and after running for 30 minutes , under more load that temp will go up to the 230 - 235 range. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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DRPHIL914
post Feb 11 2015, 07:57 AM
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QUOTE(Philip W. @ Jan 26 2015, 02:40 PM) *

started this morning- so i drove it to work!(25 miles each way), as long as the rain stays away im going to driv it to work aleast 3x a week until it decides not to start or gives me fits. going to keep fiddling around until i figure out what the issue is.
so far since installing the tuna can and the nwe oil temp sensor and taco plate no leaks - but the VDO sender and the nitrous gauge seem to work fine together,- temp gauge reads almost exactly waht the dips stick thermometer reads.
seems like this car still runs a bit hot. The air guides for under the car are not there. timing and advance are right on, not running lean. Does not go into dangerous levels but seems like at 50 degrees it would not go over 210 and after running for 30 minutes , under more load that temp will go up to the 230 - 235 range. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

over the last few weeks ive been driving the car a good bit. really running fine, but i either have to disconnect the battery or hook up the maintainer because if i go over a week with out running it it really gets run down so not sure whats up with that. - but back to the temp issue. ive bee rechecking this and it appears that the gauge reads about 230 or so when really warmed up , but the dipstick gauge actually reads closer to 180-190 which means that i probably need to get a VDO gauge to hook up that would read correctly from this VDO sender i installed, and 2. that it is cooling a bit better now with the deep sump installed as well.

So now hopefully it will run good the next few weeks as there are several carsncoffee deals coming up in this area and as much fun as the TT has been to drive, its not the same as taking the 914.!!!
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cary
post Feb 11 2015, 08:23 AM
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Did a quick read.

I'd disconnect the cold start injector, both fuel and electrical. I haven't run one in years, even in Montana.

If it hasn't been suggested or done. I'd also suggest getting new harnesses in the engine compartment. Forty years is a lot of heat cycles. Especially on an air cooled car.
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DRPHIL914
post Feb 11 2015, 12:40 PM
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QUOTE(cary @ Feb 11 2015, 09:23 AM) *

Did a quick read.

I'd disconnect the cold start injector, both fuel and electrical. I haven't run one in years, even in Montana.

If it hasn't been suggested or done. I'd also suggest getting new harnesses in the engine compartment. Forty years is a lot of heat cycles. Especially on an air cooled car.

thanks for the comments- i agree about the cold start injector- it really acted like it was flooded out those couple times it wouldnt start, so i might do that.
The FI harness was replaced a couple years ago, new from Jeff Bowlsby. and just to make sure my mechanic went thru every circuit on it to double check that there were no shorts and each one check out correctly according to anders and what the ohm readings should be etc. i think that cold start injector is the only thing i have not touched since this started- and to complicate issues, at some point the MSP was going as well but that has been sorted and the one i have in there now is right on where i want it. Supposed to be really chilly saturday morning ( @40 degrees) but i'm still planning on going to the cars n coffee -- (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)
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DRPHIL914
post Jun 24 2015, 01:26 PM
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this goes back a few months and i never posted after resolving the issue, but after having the cold start injector disconnected, having the injectors tested, i almost gave up.
- long story short- the whole issue of sometimes starting sometimes not was caused by a bad contact in the distributor cap. - I replaced the cap and rotor and have not had an issue since!! - the center contact with a spring in it was not making solid contact all the time . so both during the cooler weather in march/april and the heat of this summer ive had not one issue with the car not starting right up. Back in december we did have the MPS die and that was replaced . just strange tha this happened so soon after that problem was diagnosed and fixed...
sometimes the solution can be so simple!!
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