Clutch cable adjust-tried everything-pedal has to be pushed all way to floor Options

[jjs3rd914]

72 914-4 with 73 side shift tranny and shift linkage. Only 5000 miles on new PP, TO bearing, and clutch disc. Cannot remember is had flywheel surfaced as was 5 years ago. All new plastic cup bushings etc installed on clutch fork.

Since installation have had to push pedal all way to floor to get into gear. Have read all the past many threads on clutch cable adjustment. Have set the "1/2" inch free pedal play by adjusting the two 11mm nuts on cable at tranny and have to keep pedal absolutely nailed to the floor to shift with out grinding. Even went from 1/2 inch of free play to zero by adjusting the 11mm nuts tighter and it has made little difference.

Anyone have any ideas? I am leaning towards the ball pivot not having enough of a washer spacing. Cannot remember what we installed. Dumb as knowing this could answer the issue.

Clutch tube is solid, pedal cluster rebuilt, new clutch cable. Any ideas other than pulling tranny.

Some past threads say to forget the free play and to adjust the cable tightness until get clutch engagement 1/4 to 1/3 the way up on the pedal from full down. I am reluctant to do that as I indicated we already adjusted for zero free pedal play and by going even tighter would start to have clutch slipping?

Thanks

jjs3rd914

[SirAndy]

I am leaning towards the ball pivot not having enough of a washer spacing. Cannot remember what we installed. Dumb as knowing this could answer the issue.

That would be my guess but i think it would be too many washers. If you put in a new clutch, you probably needed to remove some washers.

You can check by unhooking the cable from the clutch arm and see how close (or not) the arm comes to the bell housing before you feel resistance from the clutch springs.
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[TheCabinetmaker]

Do you have a spacer between the cable trunion and two lock nuts? The new cables are too long.

[jjs3rd914]

I am leaning towards the ball pivot not having enough of a washer spacing. Cannot remember what we installed. Dumb as knowing this could answer the issue.

That would be my guess but i think it would be too many washers. If you put in a new clutch, you probably needed to remove some washers.

You can check by unhooking the cable from the clutch arm and see how close (or not) the arm comes to the bell housing before you feel resistance from the clutch springs.
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SirAndy
Measured the arm to bell housing with arm disconnected. Looks like 1/4 to 3/8 inch when first feel resistance. For reference this is the distance that would increase as the clutch pedal is pushed.

[jjs3rd914]

Do you have a spacer between the cable trunion and two lock nuts? The new cables are too long.

There are plenty of threads left on the threaded cable end.

jjs3rd914

[JawjaPorsche]

You probably need something like the part between 61 and 62. Can use oversize nuts. No jokes please! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[TheCabinetmaker]

Yes. What jawja pictured. I know you have plenty of threads. The cable is too long. The spacer will take up that slack.

[ClayPerrine]

The original trunion was plastic, and it was a large block. The replacements are metal but they require a spacer to work. Just run by the local hardware store, and get a metal spacer from the bolt bin area.

[Bartlett 914]

Maybe the pedal stop is set too high

[jjs3rd914]

I am missing what a spacer will do? There is at least another inch of threads left on the end of the cable. I can understand if there were no threads left a spacer would be needed. As it stands I can continue to tighten things up by turning in on the 11mm nut well past when all the pdeal free play is gone.

Also checked the pedal stop on the wood. No issues there.

I did adjust the cable so there is now less than 1/4" of pedal free play. Seems a little better but not what I think it should be.

What am I missing?

Thanks

jjs3rd914

[Larry.Hubby]

You say the clutch tube is solid, but are you sure? If the rear end of the guide tube is solidly welded at the firewall but the front end of the tube has broken loose, the first inch or two of clutch pedal travel will just flex the tube to straighten it out before there's any movement of the release lever. When my clutch tube broke loose many moons ago the clutch behaved much the way you're describing. I could just barely disengage the clutch no matter how I adjusted the cable.

[BeatNavy]

You say the clutch tube is solid, but are you sure? If the rear end of the guide tube is solidly welded at the firewall but the front end of the tube has broken loose, the first inch or two of clutch pedal travel will just flex the tube to straighten it out before there's any movement of the release lever. When my clutch tube broke loose many moons ago the clutch behaved much the way you're describing. I could just barely disengage the clutch no matter how I adjusted the cable.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) If you're sure the clutch tube is not moving, then that's not it. But if you have even the slightest doubt, check for movement again. Because the symptoms do sound similar to what I experienced with a broken clutch tube. Twice.

[Dave_Darling]

Note that the free play in a 914 is measured by pulling up on the pedal. There is a spring in the pedal cluster that pulls the pedal down toward the floorboard, and that generally takes up the free play.

--DD

[r_towle]

If you must remove the transmission, do your self a favor and remove the pressure plate and measure your flywheel offset.
You need to know what was done during the resurfacing to know exactly what size and how many shims you need behind the clutch fork pivot ball you may need to install.

First, I would agree with the guys above, remove the shifter and stick your hand in the tunnel .
Reach towards the drivers side and feel for the tube while activating the clutch.
If you feel the tube move at all, figure out why.

There is supposed to be a welded clip, very weak clip, right near the shifter on the drivers side vertical wall of the tunnel to hold the tube in place.
The tube should not move at all.

[jjs3rd914]

I checked the tube at the fire wall and through the access plate at the rear under the center cushion. All solid. I will double check the front tube attachment by removing the shift console as suggested.

Thanks to all thus far.

jjs3rd914

[ChrisFoley]

Have you checked the roll pin that secures the clutch pedal to the shaft?

[r_towle]

I checked the tube at the fire wall and through the access plate at the rear under the center cushion. All solid. I will double check the front tube attachment by removing the shift console as suggested.

Thanks to all thus far.

jjs3rd914

typically it breaks up near the shifter.
Before you panic, search here for several ways to fix it, welding or clamping.

rich

[toolguy]

When you are under the car next, remove the cable from the arm. . .
lightly pull the arm towards the transmission.. when you feel it contact the
pressure plate, the arm should be about in the middle of the cutout window in the bell housing. .

If it's closer to the trans than that, it's a good chance the arm is hitting the trans side cover when you
depress the pedal fully, so no matter how you adjust the cable, the arm will not go any further. .
Get someone to step on the pedal while you observe what is going on under the car. . this is
when you can tell if you have the ball shimmed properly.

As far as the clutch cable {bowden} tube goes, often the welds break loose in the middle of the tube allowing it to flex inside the tunnel.

[ChrisFoley]

Have you checked the roll pin that secures the clutch pedal to the shaft?

The replacement roll pins in the bushing kits are weak and fail easily unless the center is filled with a small dia. steel pin (or nail).
At rest, the clutch pedal should be as high as or even higher than the brake pedal.
If not, check the pin.

[jjs3rd914]

Pin in pedal cluster good, arm is pretty much in the middle of the bellhousing opening. I have layed under car and there is no interference when the clutch pedal is depressed all the way or relaxed. Still have to check inside the tunnel for the middle and front tube welds. Thanks

jjs3rd914