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> Fixing reverse light switch at transaxle, backup lights not working in reverse? try this...
Chris Pincetich
post Jan 12 2015, 10:09 PM
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Slowly but surely, my rustoration progresses, with all of your help (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
My reverse lights haven't been working, for years...

Here's how to fix that
1) replace light bulbs (this didn't fix it for me, but might for you!)
2) replace fuse (not really, it wasn't blown in my case)

still not working?
3) Check circuit: jumper pins #2 and #4 on the 12-pin connector near the back of the relay board. When connected, this completes the ground (-) circuit and the reverse lights illuminate! If not, bad wiring somewhere. Those bullet connectors come loose...
4) Fix bullet connectors: mine were falling off from several session of transaxle rebuilding prior years, and the several times I yanked them out. Cleaning and re-crimping does wonders. I even managed a drop of soldier in there before crimping so they are solid now.
5) Fix reverse light switch: the fun part!
- Remove it, with a pan under to catch a few oil drips.
- Inspect for a metal pin inside the hole the switch came out of in the transaxle. Mine was missing, probably fell out during aforementioned transaxle yanking.
- Make a new pin! Use a 1/8" drill bit cut to 28mm.
- Insert pin into hole in transaxle, then install switch over the pin and tighten.

The switch functions when the reverse gear pushes against the pin and the pin pushes against a spring-loaded (some kind of tension) circuit in the switch. When pushed, it completes the (-) circuit. Both wires going into the switch are (-).

I gathered all this from several posts and searches, but it was not all in one place in a thread with a relevant title that works on the Search. Steve's Never Ending Progress Thread, Mike Bellis, and others should take credit. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Pics below show
- the pin in the transaxle, inside the hole where the switch goes
- the newly created pin from old drill bit. Use the blunt end!

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TargaToy
post Jan 12 2015, 10:15 PM
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Thanks, man!
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bdstone914
post Jan 12 2015, 10:18 PM
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bdstone914
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Nice write up. The original pin has E clip limiting how far it can go in the trans. I wonder if it can go in too far without that pin?
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Chris Pincetich
post Jan 12 2015, 10:51 PM
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got a photo of the pin with the clip?
I'd hate to think the pin could get sucked into the moving parts! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)
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Mike Bellis
post Jan 12 2015, 11:30 PM
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Good write up. I don't want credit... i need plausible deniability...
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bdstone914
post Jan 13 2015, 10:41 AM
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QUOTE(Chris Pincetich @ Jan 12 2015, 10:51 PM) *

got a photo of the pin with the clip?
I'd hate to think the pin could get sucked into the moving parts! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)



I think i have one at the shop. I know you can buy the correct pin for about $ 7 from Pelican.


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Dr Evil
post Jan 17 2015, 01:08 PM
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The pins and switches had had issues in the last few years. The switches needed to be depressed further than a stock pin would do. The clip on the pins is arbitrary as the pin will not fall into the case. Make your own, save some headache, and dont sweat the C clip (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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