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> Just got 1972 914 where do I start
Joe penge
post Jan 21 2015, 10:17 AM
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QUOTE(Chris H. @ Jan 21 2015, 05:59 AM) *

You'll want to look under those rocker panel covers before you do too much more. Especially on the passenger side.

Looks like it has a Bursch sport muffler. Those are VERY loud but a lot of people like them.

Is that the panels under the doors and what do I look for they have some rust holes in back part needs new ones for sure.
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Joe penge
post Jan 21 2015, 12:55 PM
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So fuel is leaking out the back of the black wire conecter..is there a rebuild kit I can buy with instructions?Attached Image
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ndfrigi
post Jan 21 2015, 12:58 PM
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Just buy a new one and you can use the 2 port fuel pump around $85 or less I think from Napa.
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Dave_Darling
post Jan 21 2015, 01:46 PM
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The black parts under the doors are the rocker covers. If they have holes, that's a bad sign. Remove them, or at least remove the screws on the bottom and swing them up and out, to inspect the rocker panels themselves. You'll probably get a lot of dirt out when you do that, and with holes in the covers there's a good chance you'll find holes in the rockers.

I would not try to rebuild that fuel pump. I know that people have done it, but I don't feel the risk is worth it. To get at the electric motor, you'll have to un-crimp the housing to pull it apart. Then you'll need to source O-rings and such.

It's better to replace the pump when it leaks out of that part. You can use pretty much any pump that is capable of delivering the pressure and volume that the engine requires, as long as it isn't so much that it overwhelms the fuel pressure regulator. Some plumbing changes are usually necessary when you change to a non-stock pump, but those are well known and not really a problem.

--DD
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malcolm2
post Jan 21 2015, 02:08 PM
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QUOTE(Joe penge @ Jan 20 2015, 10:21 PM) *

Is it bad no holes in body one did has surface rust and needs battery tray replaced ..I need picture layout of vacuum lines and breather tubes for person that never worked on Porsche ...but ideas is what will help me get this back on road...I want to keep original as I can...if that's what is being done with this type of car!!



Our good friend Jeff Bowlsby has a great website for info.... including each and every type of vacuum line layout.

http://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/
Click on the TECH NOTEBOOK and dig around.

As someone mentioned you have D-Jet fuel injection. Look for stuff on that type. I found that O'rielly auto parts has metric hoses for vacuum and fuel. Get fuel hoses that handle ethanol.

You have a ways to go. I think you are starting at a good place. See if the engine will run. So check and replace everything that makes that happen. Fuel and power from beginning to end. Don't go too far, til you know about the RUST situation. Once you know about rust start with.....

Fuel tank.... fuel filter, fuel sock, fuel pump (you have found), hard fuel lines (in the tunnel), fuel injectors, all need checking and fixing after 15 years of sitting and gumming up. Vacuum lines and associated items fall in here too.

Then on to the electrical.... battery, ground connections, wire harness, etc.....

Heck, once you have all that done, you will be happy and can move on to brakes and suspension.
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green914
post Jan 21 2015, 02:20 PM
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malcolm2
post Jan 21 2015, 02:32 PM
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QUOTE(Joe penge @ Jan 21 2015, 10:17 AM) *

QUOTE(Chris H. @ Jan 21 2015, 05:59 AM) *

You'll want to look under those rocker panel covers before you do too much more. Especially on the passenger side.

Looks like it has a Bursch sport muffler. Those are VERY loud but a lot of people like them.

Is that the panels under the doors and what do I look for they have some rust holes in back part needs new ones for sure.



Holes in those panels are not critical, the panels are just for looks. You could clean them up and make repairs on them. But as mentioned, you need to see what is under the panels. Dirt gets stuck in there and then water stuck to the dirt. Rust forms from that. the Jack Point is the square tube that sticks out of the panel. Those accumulate dirt/water and rust.

You may have to cut the rusty screws and bolts to get them off. Get them off and let's see some pictures.

You should give the car a good look over and poke around with a screw driver all along the longitudinal, behind the seats (seats and carpet pulled), need a picture of your HELL HOLE too.

All that before you jump in and get the engine running. Cause if you have tons of RUST, a running engine will not do you much good. But in my opinion the engine is next after a semi clean bill of health (minimal rust).
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Chris H.
post Jan 21 2015, 03:12 PM
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QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Jan 21 2015, 01:46 PM) *

The black parts under the doors are the rocker covers. If they have holes, that's a bad sign. Remove them, or at least remove the screws on the bottom and swing them up and out, to inspect the rocker panels themselves. You'll probably get a lot of dirt out when you do that, and with holes in the covers there's a good chance you'll find holes in the rockers.

I would not try to rebuild that fuel pump. I know that people have done it, but I don't feel the risk is worth it. To get at the electric motor, you'll have to un-crimp the housing to pull it apart. Then you'll need to source O-rings and such.

It's better to replace the pump when it leaks out of that part. You can use pretty much any pump that is capable of delivering the pressure and volume that the engine requires, as long as it isn't so much that it overwhelms the fuel pressure regulator. Some plumbing changes are usually necessary when you change to a non-stock pump, but those are well known and not really a problem.

--DD


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Get a new one. The parts and labor are not worth the effort. The fuel pressure is higher than you probably think. ~34 psi. so you also need to check all of your fuel lines before you start it. Don't want any fires. Your fuel tank will probably need to be flushed too. Not hard to do.

Look at Larmo63's build thread. He brought a car back to life and it's a nice car now. It's a long road but very rewarding once you get done with it.

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Joe penge
post Jan 21 2015, 05:33 PM
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Wow it's clean down below gas tank small surface rust very little.. Attached Image
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sfrenck
post Jan 21 2015, 06:07 PM
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QUOTE(Joe penge @ Jan 21 2015, 06:33 PM) *

Wow it's clean down below gas tank small surface rust very little


Pull the rocker covers before going any further - as others have said. No point having your fuel pump working if you car is about to bend in half!

Since the rocker covers have holes in them, take them totally off and post pictures.

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Joe penge
post Jan 21 2015, 06:27 PM
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Well my heart is broken not sure it can be fixed I took pic of bad side other is half the holes..Attached Image Attached Image Attached Image
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Joe penge
post Jan 21 2015, 06:28 PM
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Can this be fixed within reason or total it out?
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Chris H.
post Jan 21 2015, 06:41 PM
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It depends on how structural the rust is. Need more pics. Do the doors open and close freely or are they hard to open and sag down ? Take some pics of the underside. Also the door jambs at the back. A few years ago we would have told you to throw it away but a lot more 914s are being saved these days. So the drivers side is the bad side? Usually the passenger side is much worse because battery acid would wash down the long. Are you SURE it's better on the other side?
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1972 914 2.0
post Jan 21 2015, 06:46 PM
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QUOTE(Joe penge @ Jan 20 2015, 03:09 PM) *

New here but just picked up my first 914 it's a 1972 most original has not ran in 15 years most most kept in barn needs lots of work but where do I start?i put battery in and found that all gas lines rope braided are all leaking old fuel pump under car is bad put some Either down carb and gas pump inline to test start get thing it did start just don't stay running and kills soon as I hit gas pedal...need idea what to do first or where to start and do I try to find origanal parts?any info is good or ideas to what most of you did?


Great to see another '72 on the site! First order of business should be to drain the old gas out the tank and to replace those hoses with some permeation resistant ones (find at local auto store). Check the operation of the fuel pump, with the ignition on you should be able to hear it running. Parts for fuel for the D-Jet injection system you have could be hard to come by but it looks complete and may just need seals. Parts for Type 4 motors in general are pretty abundant and replacement/OEM parts aren't hard to come by either. With new gas, fresh lines, and possibly a new pump it should start and run almost immediately. My '72 started up on the first turn after sitting for SEVEN years without doing anything to it. But no matter how temping, DON'T try to drive it without checking brake operation.
I bought my '72 in May 2013 and it should be finished by this summer.
Yours looks complete but rough so good luck, congratulations, and (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

Here's what my 914 looks like currently with the motor out (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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Joe penge
post Jan 21 2015, 06:48 PM
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Doors open and close very little sag.passanger side has less at door but where fuel pump was is gone pump hanging on rust crazy lots good spots but the wholes make me think it will be hard to bring back or a hard learning curve..can I buy the metal to fix this pic or do I need custom guy to make and weld it?
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Chris H.
post Jan 21 2015, 07:05 PM
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Restoration design makes most of the panels you would need. Brad Mayeur at 914 Limited in Peoria can replace them if you don't have experience with that kind of thing.

Restoration Design

The worst thing that can happen is you learn a lot by taking a whole 914 apart. The parts are worth more than the whole in most cases. Hopefully you can save it though.
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sfrenck
post Jan 21 2015, 07:28 PM
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If you know how to weld, have a lot of project time on your hand, and like to learn then fix what you have.

If you are like me then find a new roller from the west coast, buy it, ship it to your house, pick the best parts from both for the new car and sell the rest.
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Larmo63
post Jan 21 2015, 07:38 PM
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When I bought it…...Attached Image
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Larmo63
post Jan 21 2015, 07:40 PM
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Now, with a lot more to go….Attached Image
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TargaToy
post Jan 21 2015, 08:29 PM
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That can be fixed. Lotta work. Now's a good time to consider how much you can reasonably handle yourself, how much you can afford to pay someone to fix it, or if it makes more sense to find a solid roller and start with a better chassis.

I'm a glutton for punishment and like to see even rough cases saved. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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