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> Just got 1972 914 where do I start
Erben914
post Jan 21 2015, 09:09 PM
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The later year cars have the fuel pump up front by the fuel tank. I relocated mine to that stock position. I learned here on the fourm that the pump works better pushing fuel rather than sucking it!
Fuel pump location is the least of your worries right now. Lots of good info here. Good luck.
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Joe penge
post Jan 23 2015, 11:09 AM
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So I opened up fuel pump and cleaned it put o-ring in and it works so I put in car and started it it runs good just back fires out exhaust any ideas why? Or what to look for?
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Larmo63
post Jan 23 2015, 11:58 AM
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At some point, finding a "solid tub" or "solid chassis" is going to be impossible as these cars age and get even more rare. The price of fixing a real rust bucket will become worth it as these cars increase in value.
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ndfrigi
post Jan 23 2015, 12:25 PM
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QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Jan 23 2015, 09:58 AM) *

At some point, finding a "solid tub" or "solid chassis" is going to be impossible as these cars age and get even more rare. The price of fixing a real rust bucket will become worth it as these cars increase in value.



You're right Lawrence, I have seen several 914 tub where cut to pieces and what if in the future there will no much 914 tub available. I admire SoCal Andy, instead of putting his tub to junk, he did an amazing restoration to save another 914 tub. Same with the 74 I used to have, at first it was only a bill of sale from the previous owner I bought it and another bill of sale for me, so I was thinking of just cut the metal and sell it. But I would like to save it until Mark (who got the car) took it and plan of restoring. Not only that, yesterday the previous owner whom I got it, called and said he got the PINK SLIP from whom he bought it for a couple of years ago. Thank God for providing the pink slip instead of paying so much getting a title replacement or maybe so much hassle getting one. So now Mark who owns the car will be more excited and encourage restoring the 74 1.8.

Ooops sorry for hi jacking this thread and for a long message! Thanks!

Joe Penge, my 75 1.8 FI was in 8 years non-op parked along the driveway of the previous owner. What I did is to remove the fuel tank and drained it and cleaned it, then replace all fuel hoses (tunnel line was replaced to SS fuel lines but late on maybe after a few months running) but I suggest also to replace them now, replaced also vacuum lines, check fuel injection hoses, change oil and install new battery. And that's it for initial process to make it running until I did several repair and fixing.

God Bless on your new project!


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BeatNavy
post Jan 23 2015, 12:31 PM
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QUOTE(Joe penge @ Jan 23 2015, 12:09 PM) *

So I opened up fuel pump and cleaned it put o-ring in and it works so I put in car and started it it runs good just back fires out exhaust any ideas why? Or what to look for?

Hey Joe, I haven't read through your entire thread in detail, but it looks like you've got D-Jet and a car that hasn't run in a long time. You're going to have a lot of troubleshooting and learning to do (BTDT with a '72 that sat idle for a long time). I enjoyed the process, but it can also be frustrating at times.

A couple of resources you're going to need in addition to Bowlsby's site:

Anders D-Jet. The "bible" on understanding and troubleshooting D-Jet (IMHO). PLEASE bookmark this site and read and re-read this page and others when you have a D-Jet question.

Google 914Wolrd Search. Use this to see if your question has been answered before or if you can gather more info on your issue so you can be as specific as possible when you post it here.

As to this question, the root cause of backfiring can be caused my many different issues in the fuel delivery and ignition process. Is this the first time the car started in a long time? I'd gather more data (does it do it all the time, when does it do it, how do you describe it in detail) that might help isolate.

Also, I agree with 1972 914 2.0 who said you're going to need to drain the fuel tank and pretty much replace all the fuel lines and vacuum hoses.

The good news is you've got it to fire up. It took me something like 3 months to get that far with mine.

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Claus Graf
post Jan 23 2015, 01:04 PM
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Save the Porsche!

Here is what my 914 looks like. Lots of rust in the Longs.


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Joe penge
post Jan 23 2015, 02:54 PM
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QUOTE(BeatNavy @ Jan 23 2015, 10:31 AM) *

QUOTE(Joe penge @ Jan 23 2015, 12:09 PM) *

So I opened up fuel pump and cleaned it put o-ring in and it works so I put in car and started it it runs good just back fires out exhaust any ideas why? Or what to look for?

Hey Joe, I haven't read through your entire thread in detail, but it looks like you've got D-Jet and a car that hasn't run in a long time. You're going to have a lot of troubleshooting and learning to do (BTDT with a '72 that sat idle for a long time). I enjoyed the process, but it can also be frustrating at times.

A couple of resources you're going to need in addition to Bowlsby's site:

Anders D-Jet. The "bible" on understanding and troubleshooting D-Jet (IMHO). PLEASE bookmark this site and read and re-read this page and others when you have a D-Jet question.

Google 914Wolrd Search. Use this to see if your question has been answered before or if you can gather more info on your issue so you can be as specific as possible when you post it here.

As to this question, the root cause of backfiring can be caused my many different issues in the fuel delivery and ignition process. Is this the first time the car started in a long time? I'd gather more data (does it do it all the time, when does it do it, how do you describe it in detail) that might help isolate.

Also, I agree with 1972 914 2.0 who said you're going to need to drain the fuel tank and pretty much replace all the fuel lines and vacuum hoses.

The good news is you've got it to fire up. It took me something like 3 months to get that far with mine.
well back fire only happened when I hit gas hard popped then idi it again it popped again and died out so not sure can vacuum line cause that?
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Joe penge
post Jan 23 2015, 03:02 PM
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QUOTE(Claus Graf @ Jan 23 2015, 11:04 AM) *

Save the Porsche!

Here is what my 914 looks like. Lots of rust in the Longs.

Good luck on this frame wow mine is not that bad but gots me feeling like I wasted money on a car not worth as much as it will cost to repair it only bowing little on repairing of it ..and had a guy after looking at 1970 roller he told me don't waste my time on repairing it he lost lots of money !!wish had member closer to me help keep me motivated and on right track and little help to keep cost down to keep from falling in same as guy I taked too..so lots to think about now..
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CptTripps
post Jan 23 2015, 03:09 PM
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Hey Joe. Great to meet you. Here's my unsolicited advice: Sell it as is...at a loss if you have to.

From the limited posts I've read, it sounds like you're going to get in WAY over your head in a hurry. I hate to be the guy to come off like a dick....I'm really not that way. Just being honest.

I'm sure I'll likely get flamed, but if you aren't ready to realistically spend $2500-$4000 fixing that one...then bail now. There are a LOT of 914s out there that have the exact same issues, so there is plenty of support if you want it. But you do have to want it.

Look over some of the restoration threads. Just about all of us have had the longs off at some point and it's never a trivial job.

I'd LOVE to see you go at it and restore the whole thing. Honestly...I really would. But I'm being realistic. If you're looking for something that you can drive and feel good about, start with a different car.
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Joe penge
post Jan 23 2015, 05:25 PM
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Well I'm going to work with it till I can't just started so I'm not out yet...well I got it running and runs really good very surprised no either to help it start key on and off new vac lines so pump is good and grounded engine this is what I think was misfiring it bad ground to engine.so before I run new fuel lines I am going for test drive test trans and break system just short drive.....wish me luck
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Joe penge
post Jan 23 2015, 05:29 PM
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QUOTE(CptTripps @ Jan 23 2015, 01:09 PM) *

Hey Joe. Great to meet you. Here's my unsolicited advice: Sell it as is...at a loss if you have to.

From the limited posts I've read, it sounds like you're going to get in WAY over your head in a hurry. I hate to be the guy to come off like a dick....I'm really not that way. Just being honest.

I'm sure I'll likely get flamed, but if you aren't ready to realistically spend $2500-$4000 fixing that one...then bail now. There are a LOT of 914s out there that have the exact same issues, so there is plenty of support if you want it. But you do have to want it.

Look over some of the restoration threads. Just about all of us have had the longs off at some point and it's never a trivial job.

I'd LOVE to see you go at it and restore the whole thing. Honestly...I really would. But I'm being realistic. If you're looking for something that you can drive and feel good about, start with a different car.

Thanks honest is good if it only takes $3000 im in !!! Just trying and learning see what and where I need be before I'm very upside down...a plus is that engine ran good today now next step....
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mepstein
post Jan 23 2015, 09:04 PM
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Doug is being kind. It's a decent parts car but you'll spend $10K (probably more) + a couple years to get it back on the road and running well.

Engine
trans
replacement metal
paint
interior
brakes
shocks
tires
seals, gaskets, bushings, hoses, lines
ect.
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worn
post Jan 23 2015, 09:15 PM
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QUOTE(mepstein @ Jan 23 2015, 07:04 PM) *

Doug is being kind. It's a decent parts car but you'll spend $10K (probably more) + a couple years to get it back on the road and running well.

Engine
trans
replacement metal
paint
interior
brakes
shocks
tires
seals, gaskets, bushings, hoses, lines
ect.

I agree that Doug is being kind, and he knows. I disagree that this is a parts car. I think that term is vanishing. But I am betting that you wanted a cool sports car, to drive. what you now have is a possible big commitment to bringing one to life. Not at all the same experience. This is generally beyond the means of many experienced car guys. If it isn't expensive it is difficult, dirty, boring, and dangerous. And, if you dont take it far enough, you get nothing.
Would I take it on? Yeah, but I like to grind and weld, and it will take a lot of grinding and welding. Then we can think about the motor.
Again I am not geographically too far, so you have help.
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poorsche914
post Jan 24 2015, 10:31 AM
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Here are pics of my 914 when I bought it nearly 5 years ago... I have the feeling many on this forum would have said "Part it" after seeing these pictures.

PASSENGER LONG
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DRIVER LONG
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REAR TRUNK
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HELL HOLE
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TONS of bondo on front fender and other places (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif)
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At Okteenerfest 2014
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My point... unless it is rusted so bad that it is ready to collapse, make your 914 safe first - fuel system, brakes, etc and then fix it up a little at a time.

Even with fairly recent paint/bodywork (shoddy but that's another story) my 914 is a 20-footer at best (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) But as my daily driver I have focused on engine (new FI lines, fuel pump, tank, lines, etc), suspension (totally redone with stiffer torsion bars, turbo tie rods, bushings, 140# springs, etc), brakes (new disks, pads), and interior (work in progress). All done a little at a time over the past few years.

I know my 914 needs a LOT of bodywork. And at some point that will get done. Until then, I enjoy driving every day!

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)
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Joe penge
post Jan 24 2015, 01:23 PM
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QUOTE(worn @ Jan 23 2015, 07:15 PM) *

QUOTE(mepstein @ Jan 23 2015, 07:04 PM) *

Doug is being kind. It's a decent parts car but you'll spend $10K (probably more) + a couple years to get it back on the road and running well.

Engine
trans
replacement metal
paint
interior
brakes
shocks
tires
seals, gaskets, bushings, hoses, lines
ect.

I agree that Doug is being kind, and he knows. I disagree that this is a parts car. I think that term is vanishing. But I am betting that you wanted a cool sports car, to drive. what you now have is a possible big commitment to bringing one to life. Not at all the same experience. This is generally beyond the means of many experienced car guys. If it isn't expensive it is difficult, dirty, boring, and dangerous. And, if you dont take it far enough, you get nothing.
Would I take it on? Yeah, but I like to grind and weld, and it will take a lot of grinding and welding. Then we can think about the motor.
Again I am not geographically too far, so you have help.
thank you so much would like the help and guidance you can give ,you are little over 2 hours away from me I'm at six flags great America exit...well with this said she will be saved no parts car here lol!!!
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Joe penge
post Jan 24 2015, 01:28 PM
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That pump I was talking about sold $315 Attached Image
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mepstein
post Jan 24 2015, 01:40 PM
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QUOTE(Joe penge @ Jan 24 2015, 02:28 PM) *

That pump I was talking about sold $315 Attached Image

Way too much for a rebuilt pump.
The problem with driving around with rusted longs is there is a good chance the seatbelt mounting point is compromised and not hold secure during an accident and also the car might fold up on you.
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Joe penge
post Jan 24 2015, 05:04 PM
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Ok turned key and started right up today so I changed oil and filter today and tested first gear and reverse both did great and stoped but now fuel is leaking from hose on fuel injectors and at the base of intake so ordered all the parts to take out and redo 45 fuel line upper and lower seal and spring washer ..regulator is not leaking so will try to keep old ones in but drove 100 ft front and backwards so think it's on a good path is it easy to do injector redo parts?
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Dave_Darling
post Jan 24 2015, 09:09 PM
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If the injectors are leaking from the fuel lines, they're pretty easy. If the lines to the injectors still have the old crimp-on clamps, you'll have to cut them off. Replace with fuel injector hose clamps--the ones shapes like an omega or horseshoe, not the ones with a worm gear that cut into the hose.

If an injectors is leaking around the electrical connector, or down right where it plugs into the intake, you should replace the whole injector.

Injectors are held into the intake pipes by one M6 (10mm wrench) nut. Remove that nut, pull the metal retainer off the stud on the intake, grab the injector and pull straight out. There is one large O-ring on the injector body that the retainer seats on. There is one small O-ring near the end of the injector, where it slides into the intake. Replace both of those O-rings; leaks in the latter especially make for some ugly driveability problems.

--DD
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CptTripps
post Jan 26 2015, 09:57 AM
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What likely happened was they were on the "edge" of going bad, and when you put pressure through them, it pushed them over said edge.

Replace the lines...replace the crimps as Dave noted...you should be good to go.

Post some more pics of the rust you're dealing with. We can help you make a decision on how far you want to take it. Do you have anyone with a lift that can put her in the air for you?
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