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> Just got 1972 914 where do I start
Han Solo
post Jan 26 2015, 12:28 PM
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QUOTE(Joe penge @ Jan 21 2015, 06:27 PM) *

Well my heart is broken not sure it can be fixed I took pic of bad side other is half the holes..


I've seen worse. Heck, I own one in worse shape than that. That's definitely repairable. But there's going to be more rust for sure. If you want to learn to weld - get that chassis up on a lift, drop the engine and transmission, drop the suspension, strip the interior (you might be able to leave the dash in) and start stripping the undercoating and paint. That's when you'll find all the rust. You need a dry garage with space you can occupy for about 12 months. The small rust areas can be repaired with sheet metal patches but get the RD parts for large areas like floor pans, trunk pans, inner and outer longs. For some inspiration check out my thread...

Rusty Bucket Into Solo Toy

Much of what I did was not a true restoration but my goal was to have a fun autocross car on a budget. You'll figure out where you're headed when you get knee-deep in rusty metal (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Joe penge
post Jan 29 2015, 11:22 AM
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Need help finding the bracket that holds the ecm board to the battery tray a part number or where to find this ???i found mine laying in engine compartment.
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stinkindiesel
post Jan 29 2015, 01:54 PM
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QUOTE(Joe penge @ Jan 29 2015, 11:22 AM) *

Need help finding the bracket that holds the ecm board to the battery tray a part number or where to find this ???i found mine laying in engine compartment.


Mine was the same when I bought the car. I ended up fabbing a bracket from a piece of aluminum L. Not as pretty, but a darned sight cheaper. Maybe some day I'll get the real thing, but there are just too many more things to spend money on first.

Gary
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OllieG
post Jan 29 2015, 02:25 PM
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QUOTE(Joe penge @ Jan 29 2015, 05:22 PM) *

Need help finding the bracket that holds the ecm board to the battery tray a part number or where to find this ???i found mine laying in engine compartment.

Hi,

My 2 cents, I really think you need to assess how structurally safe your car is to drive before you worry about fuel pumps, brackets etc... From the pic you posted it looks like the Longs could be really compromised.

I would get it on a lift and have a trusted expert have a look at it before you spend anything on little things.

Post more pics of the Longs, Hell Hole, Battery tray, floor pans etc...if you can.

Cheers.
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MJHanna
post Jan 29 2015, 02:25 PM
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The fuel pump you were looking at was for a 911 with MFI. NOT the same pump used on your car. That was not a bad price for a MFI pump. If yours quits again re read the post about the NAPA pump. I think your in over your head. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) IF you don't weld and are not planning to learn you need to run from this project. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
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Joe penge
post Jan 29 2015, 10:39 PM
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I was offered help to weld I'm ordering rockers and battery tray and other stuff but need sheet of metal all stuff I have been reading is 20 gauge aluminized steel is this what most are using ? Also picked up a Clark mig wilder with gas and going to run #23 wire for auto welding so I'm trying to get ready to do this right......
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somd914
post Jan 31 2015, 09:23 AM
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You certainly have a project on your hands. I agree it would be wise to determine the real extent of the rust which is always worse than it looks on the surface - mechanical work is far cheaper and easier than major body work.

Then you need determine what your goals are:

1) Project car that will take years and $$$ (always more than estimated) to make right, but will offer satisfaction in knowing you brought a car back from the dead.

2) Something to tinker on but be able to drive and enjoy immediately or soon while you take your time making her right.

3) Something that is well sorted and upgrades being the "need" , but given the car you bought, I'd say this isn't the path you were interested in.

One major consideration is that you'll invest far more into this car than she'll be worth. But all hobbies cost money (cars and sailing for me- big cash outlays but worth it to me).

For me, I went route 2. My '73 was restored during '03-'04 which included hell hole replacement, jack tube replacements, left long repair, and sail panel replacements. I bought it 4 years ago with 27k miles since restoration. I paid about 30 cents on the dollar put into restoring it.

As you can see, she has changed a bit...

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Joe penge
post Feb 1 2015, 12:04 AM
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QUOTE(somd914 @ Jan 31 2015, 07:23 AM) *

You certainly have a project on your hands. I agree it would be wise to determine the real extent of the rust which is always worse than it looks on the surface - mechanical work is far cheaper and easier than major body work.

Then you need determine what your goals are:

1) Project car that will take years and $$$ (always more than estimated) to make right, but will offer satisfaction in knowing you brought a car back from the dead.

2) Something to tinker on but be able to drive and enjoy immediately or soon while you take your time making her right.

3) Something that is well sorted and upgrades being the "need" , but given the car you bought, I'd say this isn't the path you were interested in.

One major consideration is that you'll invest far more into this car than she'll be worth. But all hobbies cost money (cars and sailing for me- big cash outlays but worth it to me).

For me, I went route 2. My '73 was restored during '03-'04 which included hell hole replacement, jack tube replacements, left long repair, and sail panel replacements. I bought it 4 years ago with 27k miles since restoration. I paid about 30 cents on the dollar put into restoring it.

As you can see, she has changed a bit...

Attached Image
Attached Image
Attached Image

Looks great hope I can make mine look like that..did you learn how to weld doing this car?
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Han Solo
post Feb 1 2015, 08:04 AM
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QUOTE(Joe penge @ Jan 29 2015, 10:39 PM) *

I was offered help to weld I'm ordering rockers and battery tray and other stuff but need sheet of metal all stuff I have been reading is 20 gauge aluminized steel is this what most are using ?


20 gauge cold rolled steel. Clean and prime each patch with weld through primer before you weld it in. That way it's protected against rust even if it's inside where you can't get to it later.
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somd914
post Feb 1 2015, 08:26 AM
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QUOTE(Joe penge @ Feb 1 2015, 01:04 AM) *

QUOTE(somd914 @ Jan 31 2015, 07:23 AM) *

You certainly have a project on your hands...

Looks great hope I can make mine look like that..did you learn how to weld doing this car?


Not my work, PO saved the car from the crusher - he had a shop do the body work.
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