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> What is the best paint to use for DIY Fuchs redo?, i did one and learned a few things- i like this technique not the paint i chose
DRPHIL914
post Jan 23 2015, 09:18 AM
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Ok. so here are the details:

I have 5 matching 14" 914/6 fuchs that i bought last year from LukeM for my 75 2.0 and did the 5 lug conversion last year.
About 6 months ago i experimented with the pour method of painting them rather than taping them off. It worked great!
-level the wheel, tape off the back and pour the paint until it comes up to the level you want, then poke out the back thru the holes betweent he pedals and it drains out. let dry and cure.
- problems i found: if you use and enamel, and i used a rustoleum gloss black enamel, it needs to be thinned out or it will take for ever to cure. also i found that i should use a hardening agent like japan dryer, which will cause a faster chemical cure not a slow drying .

What i am wodering is this: is there a better type of paint that would cure fast and be durable? one that can be poured? my spare is done and looks great but #2 wheel will use same paint and thinned down, and curing agent used -- unless anyone has a better idea?
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Mark Henry
post Jan 23 2015, 02:00 PM
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Interested in this (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chowtime.gif)

I'm going with the RSR look. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif)

I have polished the lips and painted the rims with Rustolum silver they are gorgeous just as is.
But I was going for the classic look.
I started to mask off one rim, but it's going to take forever and will be an absolute total BS CS PITA to get exact.

I will be interested to see other peeps ideas. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)




BTW I was going to DIY home anodize them, it can be done, but I was staring down the DWD and I want to get 'er done this year.
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914forme
post Jan 23 2015, 02:07 PM
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Originally they where dipped. No masking needed! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
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CptTripps
post Jan 23 2015, 02:07 PM
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http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Spec...mp;gclsrc=aw.ds

They make it in black and silver....also the rattle-can version s real good too.
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914forme
post Jan 23 2015, 02:08 PM
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Originally they where dipped. No masking needed! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
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DRPHIL914
post Jan 23 2015, 02:53 PM
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QUOTE(914forme @ Jan 23 2015, 03:07 PM) *

Originally they where dipped. No masking needed! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

thats what got me thinking about this method. and the first one turned out really good. perfect. i thought about stripping off the adonizing too but they are not really too bad so i decided to leave that alone. I'm going to do some research on how much thinner to use. i know the hardener like the japan dryer causes it to chemically cure and therefore it should not matter if its thicker because its not depending on the off-gassing and air exposure to dry/cure. I have a shop table that i used an industrial polyurathane on and that stuff took almost 2 weeks to fully cure but is rock hard now. I am hoping that this will work much faster. Ultimately id like to have the wheels off and back on in 2 weekends.
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Harpo
post Jan 23 2015, 05:02 PM
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I have recently seen another article on this subject, possibly pelican.

David
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X911IC
post Jan 23 2015, 05:44 PM
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QUOTE(Harpo @ Jan 23 2015, 03:02 PM) *

I have recently seen another article on this subject, possibly pelican.

David


Right your David, good call! Found this:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/m...nish/fuchs1.htm
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X911IC
post Jan 23 2015, 06:21 PM
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Found a great blog by Magnus Walker.

http://magnuswalker911.blogspot.com/2012/0...efinishing.html

I have painted many alloy wheels and always use Dupli-color High Performance Wheel Paint HWP104 Satin Black. Remember, it's better to spray several light coats rather than one heavy coat.

Good luck with your project. Looking forward to seeing results. Neil
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DRPHIL914
post Jan 23 2015, 07:22 PM
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First wheel done with the rustoleum enamel gloss.


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DRPHIL914
post Jan 23 2015, 07:37 PM
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I think this worked pretty good. Just prepped it by degreasing it good and making sure it's level before pooring.


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