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> Exhaust stud woes, What's the next step?
mepstein
post Jan 31 2015, 07:11 PM
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QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Jan 31 2015, 08:03 PM) *

"New" exhaust nuts? Good luck finding those. I may have one or two used ones left; I keep finding them as we go through the stuff in the barn. They're Helicoiled on the inside, and should be fine for reuse. ALL the replacement nuts sold by almost everyone are of the locking variety, which were NEVER intended for use in this application.

The Cap'n

Cap'n - What's the proper nut to use and procedure for reinstallation?
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914Mike
post Jan 31 2015, 11:22 PM
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I've used brass nuts, never had one get stuck or come loose. Some of the VW exhaust nuts used to have brass threads inside the steel nut, sort of a helicoil, or timesert nut, that's what gave me the idea.

My one remaining type 4 engine has the stock nuts in it with plenty of anti-seize applied during assembly. Wish me luck with the removal that's due because of a copper ring seal leak...
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Bartlett 914
post Feb 1 2015, 12:21 PM
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QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Jan 31 2015, 08:03 PM) *

"New" exhaust nuts? Good luck finding those. I may have one or two used ones left; I keep finding them as we go through the stuff in the barn. They're Helicoiled on the inside, and should be fine for reuse. ALL the replacement nuts sold by almost everyone are of the locking variety, which were NEVER intended for use in this application.

The Cap'n

Would you mind showing a pic of the proper nuts? May these can be produced. What about SS nuts
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stugray
post Feb 1 2015, 01:49 PM
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QUOTE(Bartlett 914 @ Feb 1 2015, 11:21 AM) *

Would you mind showing a pic of the proper nuts? May these can be produced. What about SS nuts


Last time I installed mine I used 8mm "Jis Nuts" from Ace Hardware.
They have a smaller OD so that you can use a smaller socket.
My aftermarket headers dont fit as nice as the stock, so I needed the extra room.

Once I torqued them to spec, I double nutted them.

Oh! ANd excellent job on drilling the stud out.
You clearly DO have the patience and forethought to do it right.
You should keep that drill guide kit handy and offer it to others as this happens to them.
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relentless
post Feb 1 2015, 01:57 PM
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Nice job! I picked up some 8mm copper exhaust flange nuts from Pelican last fall. They were originally for a BMW, but fit fine and were a lot cheaper (.75) than OEM Porsche. I was hooked up by Dave Darling (thanks Dave!):

P/N 18-30-7-620-549-M58

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pilothyer
post Feb 1 2015, 02:26 PM
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These should work Helicoil Flange Nuts
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ClayPerrine
post Feb 1 2015, 06:25 PM
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I use a Mercedes Benz exhaust manifold nut.

Mercedes part number 6159900050.

They are pre-coated with anti-seize and use a 12mm shouldered construction similar to JIS nuts. Ever since I started using them, I have not had an issue with seizing to the exhaust studs.

Mercedes Exhaust Nut
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ThePaintedMan
post Feb 2 2015, 08:00 AM
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This is one of the most well-thought out and brightest ideas I've seen here for a long time. An example of what can be done with some ingenuity and plenty of forethought and patience. Congratulations on a great job!

Two things:

1) Can we make this a classic thread?
2) Hopefully no one else ever needs to go through the trouble that you did, but just in case, PLEASE hold onto that jig you made up! Someone else might be able to use it someday, or at least copy it for their own use.

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mepstein
post Oct 1 2015, 04:06 PM
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Stomski makes a tool in a kit with all different adapters to remove broken studs



Attached thumbnail(s)
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Harpo
post Oct 1 2015, 06:15 PM
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QUOTE(pilothyer @ Feb 1 2015, 12:26 PM) *

These should work Helicoil Flange Nuts


This supplier is one of mine. I will inquire about some samples.

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wndsnd
post Oct 1 2015, 07:39 PM
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I am impressed. It sucks working on your back with oil dripping in your eyes.
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913B
post Oct 2 2015, 02:43 PM
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Dang you the MAN, I like your persistence and not give up.

I am subscribing to this thread for future reference.

BTW, how thick was that drill jig have to be ?

Drill bits, was there special drill bits you use/recommend for this job ?
I take it harbor freight ones would NOT do.

Great job !

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

Ted
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saigon71
post Oct 3 2015, 04:17 PM
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QUOTE(mepstein @ Oct 1 2015, 06:06 PM) *

Stomski makes a tool in a kit with all different adapters to remove broken studs


The Stomski tool is the bomb. Will it work on 914 heads with oval exhaust port though?

http://www.stomskiracing.com/products/exha...stud-repair-kit

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saigon71
post Oct 3 2015, 04:22 PM
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QUOTE(porsche913b_sp @ Oct 2 2015, 04:43 PM) *

Dang you the MAN, I like your persistence and not give up.

I am subscribing to this thread for future reference.

BTW, how thick was that drill jig have to be ?

Drill bits, was there special drill bits you use/recommend for this job ?
I take it harbor freight ones would NOT do.

Great job !

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

Ted


Thanks Ted. Necessity is the mother of invention. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

My drill jigs are about 3/8" thick. I used a set of Dewalt pilot point drill bits (set was about $20), purchased at Lowes and plenty of lube.
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mepstein
post Oct 3 2015, 04:25 PM
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I would think so since there are many different size bushings to space the tool. I just saw this for the first time the other day or I would have given you a heads up sooner. Get it, heads up (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

Stomski stopped by the shop the other day. Good guy and sure knows his stuff.
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ctc911ctc
post Apr 7 2020, 12:26 PM
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I started replacing all of my studs with the engine in.

After reading this thread (and trying with no luck to remove one) I am going to use the existing studs and the new copper nuts I purchased. This is an engine out head off job.

QUESTION: Exhaust leaks

I took the exhaust apart because of leaks, here are two pictures of Cylinder 3 and Cylinder 4 exhaust ports

Cylinder 3
Attached Image

And Cylinder 4

Attached Image

Seems that 3 is running a bit lean and that 4 is running a bit rich. Also, do the colors on the copper gaskets (new, ran them perhaps 2-3 hours) indicate that they are leaking?
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Bleyseng
post Apr 7 2020, 03:42 PM
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QUOTE(ctc911ctc @ Apr 7 2020, 11:26 AM) *

I started replacing all of my studs with the engine in.

After reading this thread (and trying with no luck to remove one) I am going to use the existing studs and the new copper nuts I purchased. This is an engine out head off job.

QUESTION: Exhaust leaks

I took the exhaust apart because of leaks, here are two pictures of Cylinder 3 and Cylinder 4 exhaust ports

Cylinder 3
Attached Image

And Cylinder 4

Attached Image

Seems that 3 is running a bit lean and that 4 is running a bit rich. Also, do the colors on the copper gaskets (new, ran them perhaps 2-3 hours) indicate that they are leaking?

Boy now there is a "shelter in place" project waiting to get done. That oil cooler looks plugged and so much dirt on the heads. Drop the engine and tranny and take it apart to clean up everything so it runs cooler as its a air cooled engine.
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