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> Went to fix Minor Oil Leaks on Taco Plate, Not Expecting this
914Sixer
post Jan 24 2015, 08:07 PM
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I knew I had problems at the taco plate because it was really leaking there. Lots of grime and oil. I suspected a bad o ring, missing bolt crush washer or some one left the paper gasket off. Started to clean off the area when I found lots of RTV under the dirt. I started peeling back the layers and found 1/4 of the case ring was missing. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) No damage anywhere to the rest of the case or the motor bar. I am lost as to how this got damaged. The only thing that comes to mind is a floor jack. I guess I will be looking for a new case and doing an overhaul. I just love DAPO's.


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Spoke
post Jul 4 2015, 08:14 AM
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QUOTE(thelogo @ Jan 25 2015, 02:05 AM) *

But how did this happen
:??



My bet goes with dropped on the floor when out of the car for service.
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arkitect
post Jul 4 2015, 08:48 AM
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I'd like to see picts from someone, who has made a case repair and their method.

Dave
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stugray
post Jul 4 2015, 11:12 AM
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My first guess would be to have a new aluminum lip machined.
It would look just like the ring on a Ball-Jar lid.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.fantes.com-10819-1436029956.1.jpg)

Then JB weld that into position and suck it down with the tacto plate till it cures.
Then disassemble and add gaskets/RTV.
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mikedsilva
post Jul 6 2015, 04:49 AM
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I have the same issue with my car. The plan is to have a aluminium plate cut out, and then to use case sealant to provide a more permanent seal. With that in mind, what product would anyone suggest to use?

I figured that I should still build up the lip, so I cleaned and cleaned and cleaned! So far, it looks as if all the grease is out.. then I put a jar lid on the inside, and used masking tape on the outside. This created a "moat" which I filled with JB weld...
Once set, it was filed and shaped to similar shape of the case.

It looks as if I might still be able to use the normal, o-ring and taco plate cover.. but if there is a chance of leaking again, I don't see the point.

Any comments as to the method I'm planning??

Mike.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1260.photobucket.com-18462-1436179759.1.jpg)

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02loftsmoor
post Jul 6 2015, 06:00 AM
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I'm truck mechanic . We use this stuff called Bellzona, not sure of the spelling, very expensive, to repair engine blocks where the block was damaged it is machineable when cured.
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Porschef
post Jul 7 2015, 05:48 AM
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How about MarineTex?
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mikedsilva
post Jul 16 2015, 05:37 PM
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I had some 5mm aluminium plates, laser cut to replace my taco plate cover...
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1260.photobucket.com-18462-1437089874.1.jpg)

The plan is to use case sealant to provide a more permanent seal. I don't have a temp gauge...

With just a very light filing around the perimeter of the plate, it is a perfect dropin fit and the bolt holes line up perfectly.

Hope it works!

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1260.photobucket.com-18462-1437089874.2.jpg)
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mr914
post Jul 16 2015, 10:06 PM
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I personally use Devcon F

Aluminum based 2 part putty. Has same thermo expansion rates as aluminum, so with the shrinking and expanding of aluminum it won't eventually crack and separate.

Without pulling the motor, I agree with the MOAT approach and sealer.

My vote is caused by misplaced floor jack while lifting
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mr914
post Jul 16 2015, 10:07 PM
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I personally use Devcon F

Aluminum based 2 part putty. Has same thermo expansion rates as aluminum, so with the shrinking and expanding of aluminum it won't eventually crack and separate.

Without pulling the motor, I agree with the MOAT approach and sealer.

My vote is caused by misplaced floor jack while lifting (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif)
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