Rise from the ashes take 2, It looks like I have some work to do |
|
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG.
This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way. Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners. |
|
Rise from the ashes take 2, It looks like I have some work to do |
Phoenix914 |
Feb 13 2015, 11:43 AM
Post
#1
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 389 Joined: 6-December 06 From: Oviedo, FL Member No.: 7,322 Region Association: South East States |
My car has been sitting for too long. It's time to get it back in driving shape.
While assessing the condition of the engine, I found that the head on the driver's side has some issues to address. Here is the hardware that was holding the intake to the head: I know, right? We have seen this before. Yes, those are threads that came out next to the threaded rod/nut combo on the left. It looks like I have to drop the engine and pull that head. Question: Can anyone recommend a good machine shop in Central Florida to fix the head put the studs back in? |
Phoenix914 |
Feb 13 2015, 11:54 AM
Post
#2
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 389 Joined: 6-December 06 From: Oviedo, FL Member No.: 7,322 Region Association: South East States |
Of course, we all know what this engine-pulling exercise means. . .
- While it's out, I have to get all that crusty adhesive off the firewall. - And then, there is a bit of rust in the hell-hole (not too bad) that has to be addressed. Oh yea, there is a nice hole in the middle of the battery tray. It's solid, otherwise. - And then there all the FI parts and engine tin that really could use a paint job: Dirty injectors and fuel rails Hell hole Ugh. I remember how therapeutic it used to be when I spent hours in the garage working on this car. Now, hours in the garage is a luxury that I rarely experience. It looks like I need to have a plan of attack. Hopefully, when I drop the engine, I won't find any scary surprises. I already plan to change the fuel lines and vacuum hoses. I would like to have the injectors rebuilt, but that may have to wait. I currently have new points, condenser, spark plugs, fuel filter, rear bearings, Daystar delrin bushings for the rear (fronts installed many moons ago) and a long project list of other parts to buy. Let the wrenching begin! |
Phoenix914 |
Feb 13 2015, 12:01 PM
Post
#3
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 389 Joined: 6-December 06 From: Oviedo, FL Member No.: 7,322 Region Association: South East States |
|
Phoenix914 |
Feb 13 2015, 02:11 PM
Post
#4
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 389 Joined: 6-December 06 From: Oviedo, FL Member No.: 7,322 Region Association: South East States |
I was looking for more shots to show a better overall picture of the car's condition, but came up with none. I will take some more this weekend (and make them smaller - wow those above are huge). This should be a thread to document the car's condition and what has been done to date (since 2003). There have been a lot of improvements, but many more that need to happen.
Thanks for reading and stay tuned. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) |
Phoenix914 |
Apr 1 2015, 07:11 AM
Post
#5
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 389 Joined: 6-December 06 From: Oviedo, FL Member No.: 7,322 Region Association: South East States |
Work has been agonizingly slow, but I have been chipping away at it. I pulled the muffler off last night in preparation for taking out the engine for head removal. Since I don't have a lot of free space in the garage, I thought removing the muffler and heat exchangers would lessen the footprint of a pulled engine.
The muffler has plenty of surface rust all over, but appears sound with no holes. What should I do to keep it in good shape? Have it blasted and painted? |
stugray |
Apr 1 2015, 09:31 AM
Post
#6
|
Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,824 Joined: 17-September 09 From: Longmont, CO Member No.: 10,819 Region Association: None |
Seems a bit late now, but fixing the threads on the intake side of the head with the engine in the car is easier than fixing the exhaust stud threads with the engine in.
And the head would not have to come off. But based on some of the other things you have found, engine removal is the correct path. But as mentioned above - IF you dont have a couple thousand $$ to spend over the course of the next 2-3 months, dont start down that path. |
Phoenix914 |
Apr 1 2015, 10:01 AM
Post
#7
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 389 Joined: 6-December 06 From: Oviedo, FL Member No.: 7,322 Region Association: South East States |
Seems a bit late now, but fixing the threads on the intake side of the head with the engine in the car is easier than fixing the exhaust stud threads with the engine in. And the head would not have to come off. But based on some of the other things you have found, engine removal is the correct path. But as mentioned above - IF you dont have a couple thousand $$ to spend over the course of the next 2-3 months, dont start down that path. Thanks for the advice, stugray. And while I don't have $$$ to spend on too many repairs, there is only one way to get this car back on the road - engine out, head studs fixed, engine compartment cleaned up and rust controlled (haha) and then a complete tune up. I plan to take the heads over to Series 9 for Joe to take a look at them. He said he could fix the studs for me, and I would like for his experienced eyes to assess the heads' general condition. If they are still serviceable (and I have no reason to believe otherwise), they will go back on as-is. I completely understand the path you are talking about. But I do like working on cars, and this car especially (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif). |
Phoenix914 |
Apr 15 2015, 07:57 AM
Post
#8
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 389 Joined: 6-December 06 From: Oviedo, FL Member No.: 7,322 Region Association: South East States |
|
Phoenix914 |
Apr 15 2015, 08:36 AM
Post
#9
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 389 Joined: 6-December 06 From: Oviedo, FL Member No.: 7,322 Region Association: South East States |
This was originally a CA car, but ended up on the East Coast. It that part a piece of CA emissions equipment, by any chance? Does it even belong on a 914 engine?
Thanks for looking. |
Phoenix914 |
Apr 15 2015, 08:50 AM
Post
#10
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 389 Joined: 6-December 06 From: Oviedo, FL Member No.: 7,322 Region Association: South East States |
|
Phoenix914 |
Apr 15 2015, 09:07 AM
Post
#11
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 389 Joined: 6-December 06 From: Oviedo, FL Member No.: 7,322 Region Association: South East States |
I think my confusion stems from the unusual mounting location of the valve. It's usually shown next to the MPS in diagrams. I will be sure to put it there when everything goes back together.
|
BeatNavy |
Apr 15 2015, 09:41 AM
Post
#12
|
Certified Professional Scapegoat Group: Members Posts: 2,922 Joined: 26-February 14 From: Easton, MD Member No.: 17,042 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
I think my confusion stems from the unusual mounting location of the valve. It's usually shown next to the MPS in diagrams. I will be sure to put it there when everything goes back together. Yeah, what's that decel valve doing up on the fan shroud? I've never seen it there. I assume it's always by the battery and MPS. I JUST got through going through a similar exercise: installed new engine (2056), refreshed tranny (for conversion to side shift), and new Triad exhaust. I completely cleaned up the engine bay (toothbrush and paint stripper, what fun!) and welded in a new battery tray and engine lid hinge. I cleaned up the engine (powder coated everything) and serviced as much as I could. It's turned out very well, but I spent several weeks planning it out and acquiring parts. Another two weeks with it up on jackstands while I pulled the old engine and put everything new in. I felt the pressure because if this thing isn't running my wife doesn't have a car at home. I'm fairly exhausted right now and I'm hoping to just enjoy to driving it for a few weeks before tackling anything else major. Good luck with your efforts. The "while you're in there" or "while it's out" thing can really send your project off on different tangents and make it take longer, and cost much more, than you planned. |
Phoenix914 |
Apr 15 2015, 02:24 PM
Post
#13
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 389 Joined: 6-December 06 From: Oviedo, FL Member No.: 7,322 Region Association: South East States |
Yeah, what's that decel valve doing up on the fan shroud? I've never seen it there. I assume it's always by the battery and MPS. I JUST got through going through a similar exercise: installed new engine (2056), refreshed tranny (for conversion to side shift), and new Triad exhaust. I completely cleaned up the engine bay (toothbrush and paint stripper, what fun!) and welded in a new battery tray and engine lid hinge. I cleaned up the engine (powder coated everything) and serviced as much as I could. It's turned out very well, but I spent several weeks planning it out and acquiring parts. Another two weeks with it up on jackstands while I pulled the old engine and put everything new in. I felt the pressure because if this thing isn't running my wife doesn't have a car at home. I'm fairly exhausted right now and I'm hoping to just enjoy to driving it for a few weeks before tackling anything else major. Good luck with your efforts. The "while you're in there" or "while it's out" thing can really send your project off on different tangents and make it take longer, and cost much more, than you planned. I remember following some of your progress. You made a lot of headway in a fairly short time. Nice job! Like many of us, I have to overcome some DAPO nonsense to get the car as right as possible. Not to blame the previous (original) owner of my car, because I know he didn't do any mechanical work himself... He actually really loved this car and did his best with it. I just found a component mismatch that may have to rectified. Of course the fact that the engine is a 2056 with a carb-friendly cam makes the D-jet unhappy, anyway. Here is what I found: ECU: 0 280 000 037 Correct for a '73 2.0 MPS: 0 280 100 043 NOT for a '73 2.0, but rather for a '74 with a -043 ECU CHT: 0 280 130 012 (I do have the 270 ohm resistor, too) Should be -017, but those are NLA What to do? Can this cobbled-together bunch of parts make my engine run correctly? Should I swap one or more, or simply run what I've got? The rebuild paperwork I have says 272 deg. cam, which may be a Web 86b or 86c? That's a pretty hot cam for a 2056, and with D-jet I can't expect the best performance out of it. Man, what a mismatched mess this engine is. Surprising that it runs at all... |
Phoenix914 |
Apr 16 2015, 06:09 AM
Post
#14
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 389 Joined: 6-December 06 From: Oviedo, FL Member No.: 7,322 Region Association: South East States |
Finally made some noticeable progress last night. I took everything off the top of the engine except the tin between the cylinders and fan housing. The dirt and grime on this engine is astounding. A large quantity of degreaser will be sacrificed before this project is through.
I will try to get the heads and fan housing off by this weekend so the intake studs can get fixed. Here is where I left off. I believe this is the backup light switch? One wire was pulled out of the boot and broken off. The other broke when I moved the harness. I'm thinking the backup lights were not working. |
BeatNavy |
Apr 16 2015, 06:44 AM
Post
#15
|
Certified Professional Scapegoat Group: Members Posts: 2,922 Joined: 26-February 14 From: Easton, MD Member No.: 17,042 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Yup, that is the reverse light switch.
|
malcolm2 |
Apr 16 2015, 09:11 AM
Post
#16
|
Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,729 Joined: 31-May 11 From: Nashville Member No.: 13,139 Region Association: South East States |
I think my confusion stems from the unusual mounting location of the valve. It's usually shown next to the MPS in diagrams. I will be sure to put it there when everything goes back together. Decel is flatter and wider. That is the fuel pressure regulator. I have one on my L-Jet. Maybe it is a Decel for the D-jet. I know very little about that. But that is not my decel. My regulator has a different inlet. It has a knotch to better secure the fuel line, since your photo does not have that knotch, I guess I learned something today. This looks like my fuel regulator... This looks like my decel.... |
Dave_Darling |
Apr 16 2015, 09:24 AM
Post
#17
|
914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,974 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
Malcom, the L-jet decel valve (except for early 74) looks like yours--the one that was pictured above is the D-jet valve, and the same or similar type was also used on some early 74 1.8s.
I don't remember my old 1.8's fuel pressure regulator looking like the one you picture, either. See if you can read the part numbers on it and Google them--it may be one from a different car? --DD |
Phoenix914 |
Apr 16 2015, 09:34 AM
Post
#18
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 389 Joined: 6-December 06 From: Oviedo, FL Member No.: 7,322 Region Association: South East States |
Malcom, for whatever reason the decel valve does look different for D-jet and it looks a lot like the fuel pressure regulator. I had to study them to figure out they were different parts.
You can see them both in this picture. The decel valve is in the foreground, mounted in the incorrect location. The FPR is in it's correct location in the upper right corner. Notice the notched fittings like you described for holding the fuel hoses. The decel valve has smooth pipes. |
audio_file |
Apr 16 2015, 12:08 PM
Post
#19
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 295 Joined: 6-August 11 From: Everett, Wa Member No.: 13,409 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
That is most definitely a Fuel Pressure Regulator, not a decel valve...
|
Phoenix914 |
Apr 16 2015, 12:50 PM
Post
#20
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 389 Joined: 6-December 06 From: Oviedo, FL Member No.: 7,322 Region Association: South East States |
That is most definitely a Fuel Pressure Regulator, not a decel valve... They are crazy similar in appearance. Decel valve Fuel pressure regulator (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 29th March 2024 - 06:15 AM |
All rights reserved 914World.com © since 2002 |
914World.com is the fastest growing online 914 community! We have it all, classifieds, events, forums, vendors, parts, autocross, racing, technical articles, events calendar, newsletter, restoration, gallery, archives, history and more for your Porsche 914 ... |